www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk

So at the moment this double socket (which I'm pretty sure is really a single with an adapter faceplate) is sitting too low and I want to move it higher and in maybe a slightly different location. Potentially the wires may need extending to do this. Is it just a case of using crimps then insulated tape to join?

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If you isolate the circuit and remove the single adaptor faceplate (which it is) you will be able to ascertain if the ring main cables come up from the floor (a) or down from the ceiling (b). If in doubt give us a picture of the back box exposed.

(a) chase out up the wall to a new double back box let in to the wall; make the junction/extension with wagos inside the single back box and fit a single blank plate over it.

(b) very carefully chase out around the existing cable by hand up to the point that you want the new back box, you will have enough cable without extending anything.

Wago's are great but personally I'd crimp and heatshrink and cover the single socket with plaster. No point having a blank plate in the wall if there's no need. Particularly if you wish to have higher skirting boards and the blank plate would obstruct that which happened in my case.

I understand wago's would be the quicker option but there's mixed messages whether they are maintenance free (MF) or not so you can't bury them.

I'm not an electrician so maybe an electrician would confirm if wago's are MF or not.

Ok thanks chaps. So hopefully cables go up (which I'm pretty sure they do) then I will just relocate the box higher rather than moving it. Will fill the old backbox after with bonding/multi.

Just to clarify, if wires needed to be extended and plastered over in the wall. Then would crimp connectors and insulation tape be legal?

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There's much debate over using crimp connectors on solid core cable, consensus is it shouldn't be done,
I have and nothing bad has happened yet....

Some Wago are maintenance free so it says on their site http://www.wago.ltd.uk/enclosures/wagobox/
If I was to use these I'd go for the genuine Wago over generic as I read somewhere about the ones from CEF
failing throwing in to doubt their MF credentials.
Screw type 'chocolate bloc' aren't MF though, if used, access for inspection is required.

There's much debate over using crimp connectors on solid core cable, consensus is it shouldn't be done

Maybe not on this site because this is where I was told to use it from a few members.

Just google 'using crimp connectors on solid core cable'
Will tell you more than I can type here.

jaeger wrote:There's much debate over using crimp connectors on solid core cable, consensus is it shouldn't be done,
I have and nothing bad has happened yet....

Some Wago are maintenance free so it says on their site http://www.wago.ltd.uk/enclosures/wagobox/
If I was to use these I'd go for the genuine Wago over generic as I read somewhere about the ones from CEF
failing throwing in to doubt their MF credentials.
Screw type 'chocolate bloc' aren't MF though, if used, access for inspection is required.

Thankfully nothing needed extending, but it's interesting to know that information thankyou. The wiring in this house is actually stranded core (it's a 60's house with green goo type outer sheathing!)

New backbox, gromits fitted, flying earth now fitted too. Just got waiting for bonding to go off then will fill the rest, sand and screw faceplate on properly


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Pic

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kevinsmbuk wrote: (it's a 60's house with green goo type outer sheathing!)

If you have green goo, that is the cable starting to breakdown

someone-else wrote:

kevinsmbuk wrote: (it's a 60's house with green goo type outer sheathing!)

If you have green goo, that is the cable starting to breakdown

Certainly worth getting an EICR done.

someone-else wrote:

kevinsmbuk wrote: (it's a 60's house with green goo type outer sheathing!)

If you have green goo, that is the cable starting to breakdown

I thought it depends on the grade/quality of the cable? As I understand it with this type of cable it is the plastercizer in the cable breaking down under relatively low load.

When the kitchen is done we are putting a separate ring circuit in which should reduce load on the rest of the ring anyway.

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Yes it does depend on the cable, but if it has green goo (and yours does) it is breaking down, there is no cure, it needs to be changed. it is not going to get any better.

The idea of a cable sheath is not only to give it some mechanical protection but to be an insulator too. As the insulation breaks down arcing can occur causing fire.

Don't panic, it's not going to happen in the next ten minutes, but if you ignore it, chances are it will happen.

someone-else wrote:Yes it does depend on the cable, but if it has green goo (and yours does) it is breaking down, there is no cure, it needs to be changed. it is not going to get any better.

The idea of a cable sheath is not only to give it some mechanical protection but to be an insulator too. As the insulation breaks down arcing can occur causing fire.

Don't panic, it's not going to happen in the next ten minutes, but if you ignore it, chances are it will happen.

Thanks for the information. So the long as short of it I am looking at a full rewire at some point!