Fencing tips
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Fencing tips
Hi all , thought I would ask for some advice on the topic as it is something I have never actually done before . I have a fear of the unknown !
So basically moved into our new house last October and the neighbour has , very kindly *cough* , pointed out that some of the fence posts have ‘gone’ and it’s my fence .... The fence is traditional with posts , rails and feather edge boards. It’s about 20m long and about 3 of the posts are knackered - whoever lived here before had fixed a brace from the house to one of the posts which I presume it’s shagged aswel (DIY at its finest) another has BT rope around it attached to a tree !
What I was thinking was to put a new fence post (same thickness as existing etc) next to all the old ones - post fix in the ground and bolt old to new , then I wanted to feather edge board ( or something similar - any suggestions?) my side side aswel (I have the ugly side currently ). Is there a reason why I can’t board my side ? Never seen it done before so I was curious . I have seen a style before that had a 50x25 mm timber fixed on the face of the boards where they join which I quite liked the look of - anyone seen this before and know the correct terminology ? Obviously the vertical boards can’t be standard feather edge boards because the 50x25mm cover piece sits flush -which it wouldn’t if they were feather edge .
I suppose the main questions are :
1) do you install the kick board first ? My floor level is a bit all over so do I just find the highest point from the floor and level from there for the kick board
2) if I choose feather edge boards then how much should they overlap ? And is there a trick to make the tops all run in line ? Or is it a case of using a string line from one end to the other ? Or just put feather edge boards tight to the (leveled) kick board to make the top nice ?
Basically the guy next door is hoping I’m gonna replace the fence so he gets a nice new side but he can think again !
I’m sorry for the essay, any knowledge shared would be much appreciated
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So basically moved into our new house last October and the neighbour has , very kindly *cough* , pointed out that some of the fence posts have ‘gone’ and it’s my fence .... The fence is traditional with posts , rails and feather edge boards. It’s about 20m long and about 3 of the posts are knackered - whoever lived here before had fixed a brace from the house to one of the posts which I presume it’s shagged aswel (DIY at its finest) another has BT rope around it attached to a tree !
What I was thinking was to put a new fence post (same thickness as existing etc) next to all the old ones - post fix in the ground and bolt old to new , then I wanted to feather edge board ( or something similar - any suggestions?) my side side aswel (I have the ugly side currently ). Is there a reason why I can’t board my side ? Never seen it done before so I was curious . I have seen a style before that had a 50x25 mm timber fixed on the face of the boards where they join which I quite liked the look of - anyone seen this before and know the correct terminology ? Obviously the vertical boards can’t be standard feather edge boards because the 50x25mm cover piece sits flush -which it wouldn’t if they were feather edge .
I suppose the main questions are :
1) do you install the kick board first ? My floor level is a bit all over so do I just find the highest point from the floor and level from there for the kick board
2) if I choose feather edge boards then how much should they overlap ? And is there a trick to make the tops all run in line ? Or is it a case of using a string line from one end to the other ? Or just put feather edge boards tight to the (leveled) kick board to make the top nice ?
Basically the guy next door is hoping I’m gonna replace the fence so he gets a nice new side but he can think again !
I’m sorry for the essay, any knowledge shared would be much appreciated
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- ayjay
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Re: Fencing tips
It makes sense to fit the gravel boards (kick board) first, if you get those level, you just cut all the featheredge on a jig or to a stop on a chop saw and the tops will be level. I'd make the overlaps about 35/40 mm.
It's always been traditional to present the "good" side of the fence to a neighbour (assuming it's your fence), but I don't think there's any rules/laws to say that you must. If you put the Arris rails in your neighbours garden though, his kids (or burglars) can climb it much easier.
It's always been traditional to present the "good" side of the fence to a neighbour (assuming it's your fence), but I don't think there's any rules/laws to say that you must. If you put the Arris rails in your neighbours garden though, his kids (or burglars) can climb it much easier.
One day it will all be firewood.
- Someone-Else
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Re: Fencing tips
If its of any use, when we had our fence installed, the bloke said "You are paying for it, why shouldn't you have the good side" so that is what he did. (It was also easier for him as he could stay in our garden all the time, no need to go next door to nail the feather edge on)
He also used concrete posts, and concrete "kick boards" That was umpteen years ago, and the fence still looks good.
He also used concrete posts, and concrete "kick boards" That was umpteen years ago, and the fence still looks good.
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Re: Fencing tips
Sorry I must have not made it very clear in OP . So he has the good side - I want to put additional posts in my side but don’t want to look out into the garden, for inspiration, at them so I want to leave his “good side” and then do my own thing on my side so there wouldn’t actually be a rough side visible
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Re: Fencing tips
Yeah we have a fence out the front that has concrete posts and gravel boards - it just as a carpenter I would obviously feel more comfortable using timbersomeone-else wrote:If its of any use, when we had our fence installed, the bloke said "You are paying for it, why shouldn't you have the good side" so that is what he did. (It was also easier for him as he could stay in our garden all the time, no need to go next door to nail the feather edge on)
He also used concrete posts, and concrete "kick boards" That was umpteen years ago, and the fence still looks good.
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Re: Fencing tips
I've done a couple of fences that could be described as double faced , in that there was featheredge on both sides. One used the exsisting posts and the other used new ,at two different properties but owned by the same person. The posts were 3x3 with horizontal rails the same size . Featheredge nailed on both sides and then capped with 6x1.
- Someone-Else
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Re: Fencing tips
No problem with doing that...............other than it will cost twice as much (as in effect its two fences) I would suggest that you stagger the posts, otherwise you will be trying to put in a new post where there is already a post.........held in by concrete.D4np wrote:Sorry I must have not made it very clear in OP . So he has the good side - I want to put additional posts in my side but don’t want to look out into the garden, for inspiration, at them so I want to leave his “good side” and then do my own thing on my side so there wouldn’t actually be a rough side visible
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- D4np
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Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
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Re: Fencing tips
Yeah good idea - won’t know how well the existing posts are in the ground until I dig around i suppose - the existing posts would still be braced from the new rails I fit I suppose ?
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- Argyll
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Re: Fencing tips
The reason behind presenting the good side to your neighbour is so the fence is easily repairable from your side i.e replace posts etc.
The old fence posts and concrete are often easily removed using a hi lift jack (if you can get one otherwise use a bottle jack). If you can get access to the area with a car you can remove the old fence posts using a chain and and your spare tyre. I've successfully used this method a few times.
The old fence posts and concrete are often easily removed using a hi lift jack (if you can get one otherwise use a bottle jack). If you can get access to the area with a car you can remove the old fence posts using a chain and and your spare tyre. I've successfully used this method a few times.
- wine~o
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Re: Fencing tips
You might want to have a look at "hit and miss" fencing, both sides get a good side and when the gales come they tend to be more durable.
Verwood Handyman
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Re: Fencing tips
Thanks but I won’t be taking down the existing fence- just going to reinforce the old fence with new posts and then feather edge boards my sidewine~o wrote:You might want to have a look at "hit and miss" fencing, both sides get a good side and when the gales come they tend to be more durable.
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- wine~o
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Re: Fencing tips
OK,I assumed you were replacing the whole lot.D4np wrote:Thanks but I won’t be taking down the existing fence- just going to reinforce the old fence with new posts and then feather edge boards my sidewine~o wrote:You might want to have a look at "hit and miss" fencing, both sides get a good side and when the gales come they tend to be more durable.
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Verwood Handyman
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