Lining Paper

[parkgate]

I have recently decorated my lounge by firstly applying lining paper and then painting on top.

The problem I have is the lines ,where the strips of lining paper join each other,are clearly visible - so it looks unprofessional.

Is there a solution to this?

Thank You.

[columbiers]

Caulk the gaps. Or filler if they're quite bad. Then paint. Take your time and you can cover it up completely with care

[Desmondo15]

You might struggle to get a good finish with caulk.

A fine filler will do the job.

https://www.toupret.co.uk/business-cust ... P04GB.html

That for example.

[Cantseeitfrommyhouse]

As per Desmondo above.

Also, try to avoid getting the paper edges wet, especially if you used a non-vinyl paint before. If a seam starts to lift lightly press it back into place and alllow it to dry and if you're lucky it'll shrink back and sit down.

When you apply the fine filler, level it off well straight away with a flexible filler spreader. If you need to lightly sand it when dry take care not to burn through to the paper or you'll be left with a different texture.

What isn't implicitly stated above (because it's obvious, but for the avoidance of doubt...) is that you'll be repainting the whole wall once you've addressed the lines. Trying to repaint just the lines will not end well.

[parkgate]

Thank you for the replies - I think the filler may be beyond my capabilities so I am going to employ a professional decorator to finish - or redo the job!

But as ever this site is very helpful.

[fitzy]

Caulk the gaps. Or filler if they're quite bad. Then paint. Take your time and you can cover it up completely with care

Do NOT caulk the gaps. Use a fine surface filler.

Caulk isn't for surface filling, it's a flexible filler for gaps around frames, skirtings and corners etc.

It's flexible and can crack once emulsioned.

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[Morton]

The last time I filled joints in the lining paper they all cracked. I'd diluted some emulsion first and went over the joints and when dried filled with easilfil and then lightly sanded and two top coats and they still cracked.... nightmare...

[OchAye]

The last time I filled joints in the lining paper they all cracked. I'd diluted some emulsion first and went over the joints and when dried filled with easilfil and then lightly sanded and two top coats and they still cracked.... nightmare...

I am being clever after the event, perhaps the joints needed sealing from water e.g. with OB undercoat then filler Easyfill is too porous so it would get too wet from the subsequent paint ... all in all perhaps the paper got moist for a prolonged time. I am only guessing though :-(

[dynamod]

Seams opening/splitting can be caused by a few things.

A porous wall that hasn't been sized properly
Not enough paste applied to the edges
Paste too thin
Edges drying out partly before hanging
Wiping the edges with a damp sponge
Using a poor quality liner in the first instance
Excessive heat during drying

............the list is endless really

A thin coat of OB undercoat or shellac over seams prior to filling can help prevent the water in the filler causing the seams to re-open.

The best advice (which in this instance is pretty useless) is to use a good liner over sized walls, pasted with ready-mixed adhesive and to set the seams with a roller. Keep the heat off during drying or just have a fan heater in the room if it's freezing, will enable the seams to dry properly.

BTW, pulp liner does take a bit of skill to hang well, despite it being a cheap wall covering.

[Have Brush Will Travel]

Ive always coated the wall first, then foilled using lightweight filler, touched up using a roller then done a second or third one...

We used to knot seams and corners before filling, aint seen that done for years though