how can i plaster onto wood?

marky · Post by **marky** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 7:03 pm

Hello .. hoping someone can advise me. Recently had our bathroom plastered by a professional tradesman - excellent job to my untrained eye, but he left a ragged edge around the window frame and around an oblong recess in the wall, saying that both were wood framed and plaster would not stick to wood. does anyone have a technique of overcoming this - would rather have a plastered finish than mask the ragged edge by an additional wood frame or something of that sort. thanks in advance to anyone who can help

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 7:07 pm

The plasterer is right, plastering on wood is not a good idea as the wood will expand and the plaster will crack.

You could try attaching galvanised beading or galvanised mesh and then plastering over it, but to be honest it will probably crack and look a mess.

Perhaps covering it with something, perhaps PVC profiling or similar would be a better option?

I don't suppose you could post a pic and then we can see?

No problem if you can't

tim'll fix it · Post by **tim'll fix it** » Wed Mar 14, 2007 10:29 pm

architraves, beading or caulk ???? wont any of these work

Edz · Post by **Edz** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 2:13 pm

I am rennovating an old cottage and there are areas I have found when stripping back old plaster where it has been bonded to wood. What these Victorians did was to nail a series of tacks all over the face of the wood then plaster to that.

It's been on for over 100 years so I reckon that might do the trick!!

GIZMO · Post by **GIZMO** » Fri Mar 30, 2007 2:28 am

i'd say that would work mate but if not what's the harm in taking it off and trying something else! only way to learn buy your self! going to f*ck up sometime! we all have!

Andrew · Post by **Andrew** » Wed May 23, 2007 7:20 am

I have the same problem. We've installed a new doorway and are going to put plasterboard up to the edges. The plasterboard sits a few mill below the edge of the doorframe, perfect for a coat of finish plaster.

Will it be okay to plaster up to (and touch) the wooden doorframe? I'm not plastering over it, but the plaster will be touching it?

Thanks.

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Wed May 23, 2007 7:49 am

You can plaster up to it, but it might crack where the plaster meets the wood eventually!

Are you fitting architrave afterwards?

If you are then it doesn't matter if it cracks

Andrew · Post by **Andrew** » Wed May 23, 2007 9:34 am

I'm fitting architrave to most of it, so that's good. But there's one bit where it will adjoin a wooden corner box that hides electrical wires and that will be bare. I guess I'll just have to cross my fingers.

As for taping the joints, I'm still confused. I know you have to tape where plasterboard meets plasterboard, but what about the perimeter - ie where it meets the ceiling or wall, or even where the plasterboard will meet the doorframe or other wood (as explained above)?

Thanks.

skiking · Post by **skiking** » Wed May 23, 2007 10:14 am

Why not put pb onto the box hiding the wires or even make the box out of pb rather than the wood.

As for taping where wall meets ceiling then yes you should do that. I've got a similar task but my ceiling is already platered so I'm filling the join with drywall adhesive. I've also got to plaster upto patio doors and I'm joining this with a sealant (fire/acoustic) that is defined for plaster and hopefully this will absorb the movement with the patio doors so it doesnt crack.

Andrew · Post by **Andrew** » Wed May 23, 2007 12:15 pm

The box to hide the cables is half made up already, but i guess I could plasterboard over it. Not a bad idea. Saves having a glossed corner sticking out!

So Skiiing, do you plaster up to the ceiling and patio but finish marginally short, then fill the gap with your adhesive / sealant?

If I tape to the ceiling, that'll leave one half of the tape visible, and i doubt it would grip to the artex anyway. And then i'd have to redo the ceiling just to hide the tape. There must be a way round this? How about overkilling the screwing of the plasterboard to minimise the movement (i'm assuming movement is what taping stops)?

One of the ends of the plasterboard is going to fit into a chased out section of wall by about an inch. If I were to put the end into this, and then fill the remaining gap with mortar, surely this would prevent movement and cracking and therefore mean i wouldn't need to tape that end?

I think when i get home i may take a picture and post it here, to show you what i mean.

I wonder - if you glossed the woodwork first, wouldn't this prevent all the worry of the wood absorbing moisture and plaster cracking?

Speak soon. back to work

Post by **ultimatehandyman** » Wed May 23, 2007 12:58 pm

The tape helps to prevent cracking where there is no plasterboard, like when they are butted up together- there is a small gap. If you have a small gap at the top of your boards where they meet the ceiling, you can just run a length of scrim along the top, only fold it and lap onto the ceiling of the ceiling is being plastered or artexed at the same time, or as you say the scrim will be left showing!

Andrew · Post by **Andrew** » Wed May 23, 2007 4:38 pm

Here are the pictures I promised:

- Overview -

- Left hand side, where I could slide it into a recess in the wall -

- Right hand side, where the cable box is -

skiking · Post by **skiking** » Wed May 23, 2007 5:42 pm

As you know I'm not a pro in this area but here is my opinion. Joining the ceiling I don't think you have and choice but to butt up to the ceiling as close as you can. I've used this when butting up to a surface. It was originally bought to seal boards to studding to accoustically seal.

The r/h side cable box - its weetabix, err sorry chipboard. I wound'nt go anywhere near it with water as it just crumbles. Can't see it all but if its easy I've be tempted to box it off with thick pb if chasing the cables in isn't a possibility.

Andrew · Post by **Andrew** » Thu May 24, 2007 7:21 am

It's not chipboard, it's actually made from scrap floorboard

I think you are looking at the chipboard I brought down from the loft (can you believe it? 16 x 8 foot boards all scattered around).

Either way, I think plasterboard is the way to go though to box it off.

Ta.

petengade · Post by **petengade** » Sun May 27, 2007 1:00 pm

Hey Anrew!! have you hung your doors upside down? (6inch down to top hinge 9inch up to bottom hinge)