3 pin plug to an extractor fan (different question)
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- woody8086
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3 pin plug to an extractor fan (different question)
I have a workshop and next to it (connected) I am building my lad a spray booth.
I have a manrose xf100t I want to put in and run cabling to the opposite wall where there will be a wall socket.
Everything is waterproofed and so will the fan unit & even though they are ip44 I think, it will not be near any rainwater etc.
The fan I have is a timer version which has the usual live/sw-live & neutral which I know goes to the lighting circuit.
Whereas a 3 pin plug would have an earth so wiring adjustment is needed, hence my cry for help.
appreciate feedback please
I have a manrose xf100t I want to put in and run cabling to the opposite wall where there will be a wall socket.
Everything is waterproofed and so will the fan unit & even though they are ip44 I think, it will not be near any rainwater etc.
The fan I have is a timer version which has the usual live/sw-live & neutral which I know goes to the lighting circuit.
Whereas a 3 pin plug would have an earth so wiring adjustment is needed, hence my cry for help.
appreciate feedback please
- Someone-Else
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3 pin plug to an extractor fan (different question)
...........................and your question is?
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
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Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
- woody8086
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3 pin plug to an extractor fan (different question)
My question is..............
How do I wire it to a 3 pin plug
How do I wire it to a 3 pin plug
- Someone-Else
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3 pin plug to an extractor fan (different question)
What are you (your son) spraying with? is it for arguments sake re spraying a pushbike or toy soldiers? and what is is he using air line or rattle cans?
Above are my opinions Below is my signature.
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.
If gloom had a voice, it would be me.
Click Here for a video how to add/change pictures
Inept people use the QUOTE BUTTON instead of the QUICK REPLY section
- ericmark
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3 pin plug to an extractor fan (different question)
Atomised paint can be an explosive mixture, so any extractor fan must of a type which is unlikely to ignite the mixture even under fault conditions. As to wiring to three pin plug line to line (both if there are two), neutral to neutral and if there is a earth then earth to earth.
I am assuming you don't want the timer active so both lines are linked.
But the winding in the fan are very small, and they can break causing a spark, so it should be marked it is possible you can suck enough out so it never gets to an explosive ratio, I have in the past used a current relay and a solenoid so if the fan fails then the air to spray gun is cut. But air can cause static so one has to be very careful with earthing.
I am assuming you don't want the timer active so both lines are linked.
But the winding in the fan are very small, and they can break causing a spark, so it should be marked it is possible you can suck enough out so it never gets to an explosive ratio, I have in the past used a current relay and a solenoid so if the fan fails then the air to spray gun is cut. But air can cause static so one has to be very careful with earthing.
- woody8086
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3 pin plug to an extractor fan (different question)
He is spraying motorbike panels using an airline piped through to minimize noise and various spray gun's But not rattle cans anymore.
Edit:
Not built it yet but that is how it will be constructed.
Edit:
I understand some people feel that there is a danger regarding explosions but having researched it at length, I understand that due to the compression of air mixed with the paint & acetone that it is not the case
Apparently people used to spray without masks AND smoke in the paint booths ???
Edit:
Not built it yet but that is how it will be constructed.
Edit:
I understand some people feel that there is a danger regarding explosions but having researched it at length, I understand that due to the compression of air mixed with the paint & acetone that it is not the case
Apparently people used to spray without masks AND smoke in the paint booths ???
someone-else wrote: ↑Sun Jun 28, 2020 10:19 pm What are you (your son) spraying with? is it for arguments sake re spraying a pushbike or toy soldiers? and what is is he using air line or rattle cans?
Last edited by woody8086 on Sun Jun 28, 2020 11:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- woody8086
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3 pin plug to an extractor fan (different question)
Heard that said loads of times doing my research, but is it usually dismissed as a misnomer due to the pressurisation during spraying rendering any sparking unable to create a problem.
I will further research it as I prefer safe than sorry and it it obvious you know a hell of a lot more than I do so really appreciate your comments.
You are also correct in regards to the timer, which I would want disabled.
thanks for your help
I will further research it as I prefer safe than sorry and it it obvious you know a hell of a lot more than I do so really appreciate your comments.
You are also correct in regards to the timer, which I would want disabled.
thanks for your help
ericmark wrote: ↑Sun Jun 28, 2020 11:27 pm Atomised paint can be an explosive mixture, so any extractor fan must of a type which is unlikely to ignite the mixture even under fault conditions. As to wiring to three pin plug line to line (both if there are two), neutral to neutral and if there is a earth then earth to earth.
I am assuming you don't want the timer active so both lines are linked.
But the winding in the fan are very small, and they can break causing a spark, so it should be marked it is possible you can suck enough out so it never gets to an explosive ratio, I have in the past used a current relay and a solenoid so if the fan fails then the air to spray gun is cut. But air can cause static so one has to be very careful with earthing.
- ericmark
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3 pin plug to an extractor fan (different question)
It is down to having the right mixture, same as burning petrol to run a car, too rich or too lean and car will not run, so if you can pump out enough air so the mixture never reaches what is required to ignite all is safe, the problem is I don't know what the right mixture is, and how much air you need to move to ensure it does not reach that level.
I have sprayed wagons in the past, and in a dangerous manor, heating the paint on side of a salamander heater until not quite at point of bursting into flames and spraying hot with no thinners, this gave one coat cover very little over spray, and dry by morning ready to go back on the road. We have all done daft things, but it does not make it right because it didn't go wrong.
Paints today are not the same as when I was spraying in late 70's, maybe they are no longer made of things that will burn? But you need to find out, and also find out how much air needs shifting.
I have sprayed wagons in the past, and in a dangerous manor, heating the paint on side of a salamander heater until not quite at point of bursting into flames and spraying hot with no thinners, this gave one coat cover very little over spray, and dry by morning ready to go back on the road. We have all done daft things, but it does not make it right because it didn't go wrong.
Paints today are not the same as when I was spraying in late 70's, maybe they are no longer made of things that will burn? But you need to find out, and also find out how much air needs shifting.
- woody8086
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3 pin plug to an extractor fan (different question)
Thanks
I have done a lot of research and apart from the odd scaremonger comment, (their words, not mine) most professional's have said that the amount of compressed air involved stops ignition.
What they call 2k acrylic paints (2 part mixture) is a 2 to 1 mixture of paint, & hardener with 10% cellulose to help the flow, consensus is saying that the is too much air going through to allow ignition.
I do understand that a spray gun is the same as a Carburettor in essence
Having read and read til my head spins I believe it is safe to use one of those fans.
I have done a lot of research and apart from the odd scaremonger comment, (their words, not mine) most professional's have said that the amount of compressed air involved stops ignition.
What they call 2k acrylic paints (2 part mixture) is a 2 to 1 mixture of paint, & hardener with 10% cellulose to help the flow, consensus is saying that the is too much air going through to allow ignition.
I do understand that a spray gun is the same as a Carburettor in essence
Having read and read til my head spins I believe it is safe to use one of those fans.
ericmark wrote: ↑Tue Jun 30, 2020 12:07 am It is down to having the right mixture, same as burning petrol to run a car, too rich or too lean and car will not run, so if you can pump out enough air so the mixture never reaches what is required to ignite all is safe, the problem is I don't know what the right mixture is, and how much air you need to move to ensure it does not reach that level.
I have sprayed wagons in the past, and in a dangerous manor, heating the paint on side of a salamander heater until not quite at point of bursting into flames and spraying hot with no thinners, this gave one coat cover very little over spray, and dry by morning ready to go back on the road. We have all done daft things, but it does not make it right because it didn't go wrong.
Paints today are not the same as when I was spraying in late 70's, maybe they are no longer made of things that will burn? But you need to find out, and also find out how much air needs shifting.