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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 4:03 pm 
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Mr. Grumpy

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Hi all, since the first day I had my Xpelair CF20T installed (not by me) the trickle feature had not been working. It seems to be wired fine but just want to check with you smart cookies if the circuit board is faulty or its a wiring issue.

I tested it with a multimeter and when the...
Bathroom light is OFF: Probs on earth to switch live(black wire, brown insulation tape) reads 0Volts
Probs on earth to live (brown wire) reads 238Volts

Bathroom light is ON: Probs on earth to switch live) reads 238Volts.
Probs on earth to live (brown wire) reads 238Volts

The trickle feature is activated by the white switch in the middle (below the red switch,).
It has no effect whether in the on or off position.

Would the circuit board be faculty? A ten oven job. I don't think I can buy a replacement.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 6:17 pm 
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Sorry :dunno: that particular model so can't say it's wired correctly or not. If there is a wiring issue it could be at the switch. Have you checked there ?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 6:36 pm 
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Well when the light is switched off, the fan still runs (humidistat and over run facility) so it's still receiving power. The volt reading confirms this too.

I checked the PDF (attached) and seems to be wired correctly. Unless I'm missing something.

:scratch:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 6:42 pm 
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:dunno: The missing "something" is where and how the switch wiring works compared to the fan ...

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 8:40 pm 
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wine~o wrote:
:dunno: The missing "something" is where and how the switch wiring works compared to the fan ...


As in "switch" do you you mean the actual trickle feature switch in the fan (the white one)?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 8:13 am 
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Everything you have said suggests that the fan is faulty. Either the trickle switch is broken, the motor windings for trickle speed are open circuit or there is a PCB problem.

A new PCB is about half the cost of a new fan.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 12:58 pm 
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OnlyMe wrote:
Everything you have said suggests that the fan is faulty. Either the trickle switch is broken, the motor windings for trickle speed are open circuit or there is a PCB problem.

A new PCB is about half the cost of a new fan.


Thanks Onlyme, :thumbright: I found the part online, £55 quid half the price of a new one as you say. Not cheap though. It never worked from day one so I am wondering if it was originally faulty or maybe damaged on install. I'll pop out the PCB and have a look for any signs of damage / loose wiring

Do you think it's worth trying to do that solder reflow trick by whacking it in the oven?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 2:11 pm 
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I have never tried to resolder a PCB in an oven :wtf:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 2:20 pm 
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My mistake, it was @kellys_eye who posted on my other topic a while ago about repairing my TV. Though it was you who commented..

TV still working :-)


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 2:51 pm 
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OnlyMe wrote:
I have never tried to resolder a PCB in an oven :wtf:


Its not so much a resolder, it more a case of heat everything up and hope it doesn't ruin everything before the solder melts.
My "problem" with doing this is that there is no additional flux added to help the solder flow, as well as cooking the components.

Ahh, yes I forgot.....................................oven chips :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 2:58 pm 
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If the part is going in the bin, it's worth a crack I reckon. TV circuit boards are so complex it seems near impossible to fix for a novice
But maybe a small pcb like on this fan might be possible to resolder loose components. Dunno, never soldered anything in my life apart from a chip to hack a games machine 20years ago :lol: .


Need to get glasses though. Eyesight is on the way out.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 4:56 pm 
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Ok had another look, the switch is definitely faulty. If I jiggle it about it activates.
Might just remove it and solder it to the on position. It's a simple device


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 5:33 pm 
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DIY_Johnny wrote:
Ok had another look, the switch is definitely faulty. If I jiggle it about it activates.
Might just remove it and solder it to the on position. It's a simple device


Result :huray: I cannot see it been anything more than simple connection to activate the trickle control.

BTW I got a new soldering iron today from Maplins (bastards took mine when they emptied the van before Christmas)

Only a tenner with a soldering stand, a desolder pump and some solder. Code number N72HY. It's normally £20.

It's not as good as my old one but it worked fine on the LED strip lights today.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 5:47 pm 
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OnlyMe wrote:

Result :huray: I cannot see it been anything more than simple connection to activate the trickle control.

BTW I got a new soldering iron today from Maplins (bastards took mine when they emptied the van before Christmas)

Only a tenner with a soldering stand, a desolder pump and some solder. Code number N72HY. It's normally £20.

It's not as good as my old one but it worked fine on the LED strip lights today.


Coincidence! I am just back from maplin. I bought a soldering iron and some solder i didn't see that deal there, damm Ended up getting a 30W one (code: N38AC) tenner for just the iron, You got a much better deal! I'd bring it back but I opened the box on the bus on the way home :sad:

I see you can buy those Mini SPDT Slide switches (is that what they are called?) but I want it in the open position anyway so won't bother getting one


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 3:32 pm 
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Soldered the connection today. Worked actually! :huray:
5 times more solder than needed though . :lol:
Mind you I wasn't quite sure how to " jump" a path so just dismantled the internal switch and did it from that side.
I would could you just use a bit of copper wire and make some sort of "bridge"


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