hi guys

my first question in this section of the fourm i think,

ive just had a base poured for my new workshop, its poured onto limestone so no dpm, i was planning to paint it with garage floor paint but im unsure if it will stop any damp rising?

the base has just been left tamped so i am now planning to use some sort of bitumien primer first then applying a self leveling compound then garage floor paint, is this a good idea? will the slc stick it bitumein ?

i am planning to lay 2 course of concrete commons before building a timber frame ontop. and wanting something to paint on the outside to provent damp comming in that way as the base is 6" lower than the soil on the back edge.

the building will be fully insulated as i plan to use it all year round so could do with sorting the base before i continue, last thing i need is damp rusty tools

thanks jamie

Hi Speed,

Why didn't you use a DPM? You could have tied it into the DPC of your blocks! Anyway, best way to go about it now, is to lay insulation bats and then screed. Lay DPM under the insulation and take it into the top of the first block

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Measure twice, cut once!

what are you doing to stop the water getting to the wood where the ground is above the base??

why not go for bricks felt then flooring joists to remove the damp problem

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we are all ------------------still learning

i didnt do the base,

i havent layed any blocks yet, im after somekind of liquid dpm to paint on before i lay the brick plinth?

big all the block plinth will raise the timbers higher than level, i dont really want to add any height internally to the floor as im already limited in headroom

for example if i get http://www.wickes.co.uk/liquid-damp-pro ... urce=123_4

paint the floor then lay 2 corse of brick and paint them both sides should stop any damp accuring, then slc ontop of that?

if its a sloping site then its from the the highest natural point the shed covers that you take your height measurements

are you having a flat or sloping roof
on my shed the walls are 6ft but the "A" frames give around 6ft4" clearence with the strip lights at each side away from the walking area underneath so illuminating well without shadows

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we are all ------------------still learning

its not really sloping say 3" in 3.6m but the digger man dug a ltiile deeper than i expected so there is a few inch of soil above the base height, thats why i want to damp prooof the brick, the soil will be a few inch away from the wall but will be inaccessable once the walls are up so just want to make sure its done well.

it will be a flat roof and im aiming for 2350mm inside, then the walls will be from outside in > 12mm cladding on a 3/4x1 1/2 slate lath on breathable menbrane on 4x2 stuffed with 10mm rockwool then a vapour barrier then skimmed plaster board,

on the fence sidetop left you can see the soil is a little higher

blimey your getting close to your 50% development at the back ??
if you don't have a decent front garden dont plan any decking

i assume 100mm rock wool

2350 inside ??
i think your only allowed 2.5 outside finished height

felt boards timbers 7" 177mm??

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we are all ------------------still learning

all the pebles are getting getting replaced with grass also the other half of the garden will be grass after ive removed the pond
the base is 22x11'

its 2.5 from the highest point and the path slopes up a bit giving me 5-6" from base to the point where i start to measure from, ive not took any actuall measurments yet tho so it probs will be smaller than 2350 but im trying to keep as high as possible so i can mock up built in wardrobes standing rather than laying down

whilst it would be great to work units to full height it is in general impractible if you are building an 8 ft unit you need at least 8ft 6" to move and work on it other wise lay it flat or in 2 peices

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we are all ------------------still learning