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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 12:23 pm 
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Hello,


I currently have a built in oven and old style electric hob. They are connected through a dual appliance outlet plate to a single switch to turn both off. This is then hooked up to a 32amp breaker.


I'm planning on replacing the hob with a nice new induction hob. I had ordered an oven from John Lewis, a self cleaning job rated at 3.5kW.


The fitter informed me that he couldn't do it as it needs a 16amp supply, not a 32amp one. He said if it was on a 20 amp breaker it would be ok. He also mentioned something about changing it so that each appliance was on a separate box with a switch for each, then the current breaker would be fine.


Needless to say, I'm a little confused but would like to understand it so that I can get them to redeliver the oven if it's a simple fix. Am I correct in thinking.....


I effectively fit two new isolation switches, presumably with the appropriate individual rated fuses inside them. Then have the dual appliance outlet plate replaced with a single appliance outlet plate and wire the two new plugs into the existing isolation switch. Which would remove the need to go digging holes in the wall as the new plugs could be added into the side of the cabinet containing the oven. So the two appliances would still be on the same breaker but have appropriately rated fuses (or whatever is used for these things now) for each one.


The suggestion of changing the breaker I assume would be fine, if I had a gas hob, but as there will be an electric one hooked in too I'm going to trip the breaker if I try turning both on. Surely?


Oh, and if I'm right about simply adding two sockets with individual fuses in then does anyone know roughly what this might cost, as clearly I need someone trained to do this as I assume I need a certificate to show it has been professionally fitted. I'm in central London (E2) so I can only assume a fair bit, but it seems like it shouldn't be a long job.


Thanks in advance for any help.


Marcus.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:15 pm 
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The current 32A breaker is there to protect the CABLING but since the cable to the hob/oven is rated at UNDER this then there is a chance that a fault would result in the cable burning i.e. a fire.

**The cable from the 32A breaker should be fed to a locally-mounted smaller distribution unit with two 20A breakers fitted in it, one for each unit.** This is basically what he was proposing so let him carry on.

Otherwise you're looking at replacing the existing 32A breaker for a 20A version (perfectly acceptable) but you would need to find ANOTHER cable to run the other appliance as you can't run them both from the one.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:39 pm 
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Thanks for your help.

The cable used from the oven and hob is 6mm, which I think means it's OK for 32amps anyway, isn't it?

But either way I think I'll be some switches put in so each one can have it's own fuse too.

What exactly should I be asking an electrician to do? As it's still likely to come out as a random selection of words.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 11:06 pm 
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Any fixed appliance the manufacturer can stipulate the protection required. With portable appliance the fuse in plug only protects cable any protection for the appliance must be in the appliance but that's not the case with a fixed appliance. So if the oven manufacture says it needs a 16A trip fitted then the fitter is correct.

So since there are no fused connection units rated at 16A this is a problem. Under 3kW you can use a FCU but over is a problem. In my mothers house a mini consumer unit was used in the kitchen to get around the problem. There are mini flush consumer units but clearly using twin supplies would look better.

However I think it would be unusual for any oven manufacturer to stipulate 20A. 16A yes but unlikely 20A. So read the instructions that come with the oven. If it does not say you need a 16A MCB/Fuse then you will be OK.

If you want a single feed for both then the cable to both must be able to take whole load of 32A. This may be a problem if the cable will not physical fit the oven. Simple method is buy British so it will run on a FCU.

Looked up Hager make a Golf surface mount consumer unit with 1 to 3 rows and 4 to 6 modules so the smallest would take two MCB's and a RCD often called out building consumer units. But the flush type are expensive around £60 plus you need some where to fit them.


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