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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 1:00 pm 
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I now need to start buying some drill bits, in the past for steel I always used "Dormer" jobber bits, as for wood and masonry, a right mixture, there are so many makes out there now I haven't got a clue, I would prefer quality, rather Chinese crap, any and all recommendations welcome. Thanks Nos


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 1:49 pm 
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Last few years I have always used Axminster own brand with no problems.

https://www.axminster.co.uk/

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 1:59 pm 
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I tend to use blunt ones in the main :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 2:55 pm 
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for wood up to 1/2" just hss bits for most things
of course your chuck may be 5/16ths /8mm so you need reduced shank like spade bits
all depends on use and driver available really

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 5:13 pm 
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Hilti for masonary and steel,Irwin for auger and spade.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 5:15 pm 
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At the risk of people hating me (again) I'll give you a list (you'd expect nothing less from me, I'm sure).

For drilling metals, which in may case can mean aluminium profile, thin steel sheet, thick extruded steel box beams (electric arc steel) and (my favourite) stainless steel I've moved completely over to using M42 HSS (also called Cobalt steel) twist drills. Forget tool steel drills or M2 HSS because they simply don't cut it with a lot of the stuff I need to drill on site. I have to say that I rarely need to drill above 10mm in diameter, though, so in my tool box are Dormer (British), Milwaukee (?) and Heller (German) cobalt steel (M42 HSS) twist drills. The Milwaukees and Hellers are relatively cheap, the Dormers are expensive. Surprisingly the two which work best on that horrible electric arc steel we get these days in RSJs and extruded steel box sections (BTW, that can have walls up to 10mm thick) are the Dormers and, almost as good, the Milwaukees. Heller stuff doesn't last as long whilst cheap tool steel drills can't even manage a single hole in the 6mm wall stuff. Always use at relatively low speed (no more than about 1000 rpm in steel) and use an appropriate lubricant on ferrous metals - oil, WD40 or better yet cutting fluid

Wood and wood composites are much more complex. I use spade bits for a lot of hole drilling. My choice is the Irwin spade bit set which can still be had for under £25 if you scout around. Unlike Bosch spade bits, which feature a threaded point, the Irwins have a plain point. This means you control the feed, not the bit - I find that the Bosch bits pull-in too fast on softwoods and can wreck hardwood. With spade bits you need to be running at 1500 to 2500rpm for best results, but they won't do deep holes (about 1in/25mm is the max for clean, straight cutting as they can wander off if they hit a knot). Plus point is that they are cheap and they can be sharpened with a simple warding file (must have safe edges, that is smooth as opposed to cutting edges, though)

For deeper holes, such as mortise lock recesses I have a few auger bits. Mine are a mixture of Bosch and Sandvik/Bahcos mainly because they seem accurate and durable. Auger bits generally start at 8mm or so and go up to circa 38mm. I also have a partial set of 1/4in hex drive auger bits from Makita (Japanes or possibly Chinese) which work well in small drill/drivers (and actually hold a reasonable edge), although I'd caution getting 1/4in hex drive bits larger than 16mm as they have a tendency to snap at the neck if overloaded. Auger bits need to be used at 500 to 1000 rpm and no faster, certainly for sizes above 12mm. I still have a brace and bit and for that my favoured drills are hand auger bits (Jennings-pattern) and centre bits by Wm. Ridgway. Mine are all pretty old and as Ridgway hasn't made drills since the mid-1990s and Clico closed their doors in 2014 there is no longer a British-made auger bit available

For general smaller hole drilling in timber I have a few cheap and chearful Silverline lips and spur (brad point) twist bits. They are dirt cheap and it doesn't matter if they don't last because I'm more likely to prang one on a nail or other inclusion that ever make one blunt. For better work, such as dowel hole drilling, I have a few HSS M2 twist drills from Star-M (Japanese), Famag (Germany) and Fisch (Austria). The Star-M drills are a unique design and can be used in a hand drill (and are my favourites), the Famag drills feature a fast spiral and eject chips cleanly but drill medium-slowly whilst the Fisch drills are slow twist ones which don't clear as well, but drill faster than the Famags. Ideally they are run at 500 to 1500rpm with a drop of oil applied in the bit guide. They tend to be expensive (£7 to £10 a pop) so must be treated with respect - in which case you'll get a long life from them

Finally for piloting and countersinking I have a small collection of Trend Snappy drill/countersinks - the ordinary steel body ones for use on site and a few TCT ones for use on the bench (they are just two fragile for site work IMHO). The steel body ones need to be sharpened from time to time and should have the M2 HSS slow twist pilot bit replaced periodically (on site every 3 or so weeks) as they clog and break readily when dull. More durable than the Disstons and have matching taper pellet and tube pellet cutters available. I/4in hex drive, too

There are a few other drill bits I use, such as Forstner bits, hole saws, SDS bits, fast drilling augers, etc but that's probably enough to be going on with :wink:

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Last edited by Job and Knock on Thu Feb 08, 2018 5:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 5:17 pm 
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It depends what you want to pay, I use Ti bits from ukdrills on ebay I get them in x10 unless its a large or odd size, There on a par with the Bosch kits I have/had

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/UKDRILLS


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 5:24 pm 
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UK Drills - Tried their M42 HSS long drills on the aforementioned extruded steel box beams a couple of years back - they weren't that sharp and they burned out prematurely. Granted an awkward job where we were going through 44mm of softwood followed by 6 to 10mm of electro-arc steel, but nevertheless not great performers on that.

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