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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 7:20 pm 
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Hi guys,
Looking for some help/ advice. Iv been making tables and shelf’s from used scaffold boards for friends and family and before Iv known it I can’t keep up with messages from people wanting them!
My question is about the finish of the tables iv been using boiled linseed oil and wax. Which has been working fine, however iv people asking me for lighter/ darker or natural finishes. Can anyone advice me on a good product to keep the look rustic but can add the colour to clients need. I’m pretty new to liking and finishing so iv not really come up with a good solution yet.

Thanks for any help!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 7:51 pm 
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How about shellac (which will fill the grain) and just clear wax. Shellac will darken the wood to the equivalent of getting it wet? You can dilute shellac with meths so it goes further or not and you need meths to clear your brush(es).

Linseed oil will darken over time, and can go wrinkly and sticky where there is just too much of it and it is not absorbed. An alternative can be tung oil (which you can thin with white spirit to help it penetrate). All oils should really be wiped off if passed the absorption time. Wax over either although tung oil can be left alone.

All the above will darken the wood to its wet look stage. If you must keep the wood lighter in colour you either have to look at lacquers or two pack varnishes (I have no clue about either) but they will darken the wood the least (look for what wood turners use). BTW. If the wood is pine, it will darken anyway ... and some hard woods will get bleached if exposed to light. If you are trying varnishes quick dry water based varnishes will darken the wood the least and slow drying (as in oil based or some water based) will darken it the most. I would not opt for varnishes as they can crack etc. as the wood moves in different environments. Oil/shellac/wax/ or the more exotic chemicals :mrgreen:

========================
From a business perspective, [I am clueless here again meaning I can be completely wrong] you would rather have a number of things that sell "buy what you see". If you start getting into the "can I have it lighter" "darker" "don't like it" it may become a pain or for every happy customer a disappointed one whether they tell you so or not.

Good luck :-)


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 9:40 pm 
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As well as Ochayes excellent recommendations I would just throw in a couple of ideas for you to experiment with

The japanese technique of yo sugi ban seems to be getting more popular, basically you burn the surface of the wood with a blow torch down to the level you want it brings out the grain and also weather proofs the wood for external use

http://www.reduxindustry.com/modern-org ... ugi-bench/
If you register with pinterest there are plenty of examples to look at
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/kappasteek/ ... s/?lp=true
On youtube there are some videos
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... o+sugi+ban
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=395coGRLFn0
http://shousugiban.co.uk/
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/e6/e4/33 ... 570ec9.jpg

Its then sanded especially if you char it you take the top layer off and finish with wax or danish/linseed/tung oil

I have done some hoe handles for the allotment and they look ok


vinegar and steel wool is another cheap idea to play around with
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... steel+wool


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2017 12:01 am 
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PS. If the furniture is for outside use please ignore my comment above. Wax is not for exterior use, neither are varnishes, lacquers etc for wood that is going to get wet like you would expect with garden furniture.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 11:42 pm 
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If interior use, then WAX finish using 'BRIWAX'.
This is made in clear and shades of brown.

Davyp1


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