Decent chop saw...

[nickds1]

Looking for a decent chop saw as a LOT of accurate cutting needed and my table saw is an Axminster cheapie and not up to it.

Looking at this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... 1OLE&psc=1 (apologies - as a new user I cannot use BBcode url tags).

Anyone got an alternative? Also thinking about a low-end DeWalt or Makita - it's a trade-off...

Grateful for any recommendations in the £250-350 range (I'll get a stand as well)...

[dewaltdisney]

Whatever saw you buy it is the blade quality that is important and rarely is the blade supplied top rate. The next point is accuracy of the fences and setting for compound cutting. If you were looking at a sliding saw the next concern is the movement of the bushes on the sliding bars allowing cut deviation.

Having said all this I am not sure of the best saw currently, the Dewalt saws always seemed good but I have heard the latest offerings are not the same quality wise.

DWD

[nickds1]

Thanks - I'm aware of the things to look for - the saw I referenced has excellent reviews but as with all such tools with lots of features, the accuracy suffers. I does cut metal and plastic though, which is a strong point.

I've some flooring jobs to do - new joists, floorboards etc. I do have a rail saw for larger stuff, but I'd like a decent chop saw, a) because I don't have one and b) because the table saw isn't really up to it.

What I'm really after is specific recommendations.

[fin]

something like this would suit. youll likely get them cheaper elsewhere though. i find these guys to be a bit expensive
https://www.its.co.uk/pd/DWS774PK-Dewal ... S774PK.htm

[Job and Knock]

The Evo is a saw which generates a lot of reaction, both positive and negative

Evolution Rage 3-DB SCMS 001_01.jpg (55.43 KiB) Viewed 4174 times

Personally I think that they are trying to pack so much in at the price that quality/accuracy is bound to suffer. As for cutting metal, that is possibly a moot point, too - if you use any blade on steel it will forever after cut a bit rough on aluminium or brass and it'll be all but useless for laminated chipboard (as it will chip out big time - cutting metal blunts the blades, any blades). Personally I avoid cutting metal (normally ally in my case) on my own chop saw because it seems to get into every nook and cranny on even the best cleaned saw only to work its' way out and scratch the surface of the next bit of polished wood that I cut! But that's maybe just bias on my part. I will, however, second the comments about blade quality being very important. I will admit that the Evo has a high spec at the price. Ignore lasers, though - they're not all they are cracked-up to be in terms of accuracy unless you can spring for a Festool Kapex - the deWalt shadow line system is, however, effective and surprisingly accurate

[fin]

the laser on my kapex is flipin miles out. i never use it. my mate has the dewalt flex volt mitre saw and its absolutely mint. id even consider that over my kapex to be honest. the light shadow set up is great too

[fin]

also my kapex is deffo under powered. it struggles big time compared to my mates makita on the same cuts. and doing a oak stair job recently it would bog down and almost stop whereas my mates makita would power through no bother at all. both 110v machines

[Argyll]

I bought the Metabo KGS254. It's very accurate but it's a beast to lug around on different jobs. I plan on keeping that in my new shed as a mitre station and buying the DeWalt that Fin recommended.

[fin]

argyll if i was to get another mitre saw id either.... sell my kapex and buy the dewalt flex volt big beast. or keep the kapex and buy a 18v cordless dewalt.

[Job and Knock]

I'm with Fin on the luggability comments - I've had a 10in SCMS for many years (currently a Kapex), but I generally turn to my DW771 (216mm, single bevel) saw for the bread and butter work as it is far smaller and lighter - and my back isn't getting any younger. If I were in the market for a similar saw today I'd possibly look at the DWS774 (lighter still, also a bit smaller) as that should be able to handle 80 to 90% of my needs. The OP, however, may not need this level of portability

[Argyll]

argyll if i was to get another mitre saw id either.... sell my kapex and buy the dewalt flex volt big beast. or keep the kapex and buy a 18v cordless dewalt.

Fin I've heard the 18v DW mitre saws don't have enough grunt and better getting the flexivolt. However it's about £750...ouch.

Have you heard any decent reviews about the 18v cordless DW?

[fin]

if i was to get one of those itd more be for like kitchens and the like.

my kapex struggles cutting mitres on likes of skirting boards etc. apparently if i had a 5kva transformer it makes them better like. and my blade will be a bit trashed like.

cordless one potentially would be for light stuff architraves maybe and like kitchen cornice etc when setting the kapex up can be a bit of a pain coz its such a big machine

[big-all]

i have the 18v slider and it will cut 6x2" all day cost me £400 including 2x5ah batts cant fault it really
may struggle in a heavy industrial setting but will do 90% off what you need away from the mains and a light saw a bit disappointed it doesnt do trenching from new
this saw but not from here
https://www.ukplanettools.co.uk/Product ... r/dcs365p2

[Job and Knock]

my kapex struggles cutting mitres on likes of skirting boards etc. apparently if i had a 5kva transformer it makes them better like. and my blade will be a bit trashed like.

I was beginning to wonder. I heven't noticed much gutlessness in my own Ka[pex, but I run mine on a 6.5kVA transformer. I do the same for the DW745. As for the lasers being out, mine are still pretty accurate. Perhaps because I baby it - it doesn't do any excess distance in the back of the van, ever. Maybe makes a difference

.....a bit disappointed it doesn't do trenching from new

I see this written time and again, but just how much trenching gets done? Door casings come pre-made or in a pre-made kit these days (formerly the biggest use for a trenching facility, surely) and in any case trenching on a mitre saw is really rough when compared to the result from a router, so hardly joinery/furniture quality (or dog rough in real terms)

[big-all]

actually made a concentric ring from wood that allows quite crude but useful trenching