New paslode nail gun question

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D4np
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Re: New paslode nail gun question

Post by D4np »

I haven’t really seen many people use the makita version - what would you give it out of 10 ?

Another reason I don’t like the 690 (feel I have been a bit unfair to dewalt because of the 692)
Is the nose piece - it doesn’t really dig in to the timber like paslode and if you have it on bump this is very dangerous as I found out .. we had to counter batten stud work and I was stretching to fit the horizontal batten on the sole plate with the trigger held on bump and the nose piece slipped off the timber and shot through my finger and nailed me to studwork! My mate had to angle grind me off the wall Image


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Job and Knock
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Re: New paslode nail gun question

Post by Job and Knock »

"Passy finger"
D4np wrote:Also nailing at 100mm centres ?! How often would you get a job to do that ? What type of flooring were you using ?
Remiss of me not to respond to this earlier - the flooring was double and triple skinned 18mm spruce T&G plywood which was surface and joint glued and the nailing pattern was dependent on the traffic load in that particular part of the building (as defined by the S/E). In main routes, tops of stairs, lift apron areas, etc with the highest traffic loadings we were on 100mm centres. Elsewhere it was 150 or even 200mm. The nails were all ring shanks. This is a commercial build environment where the structure is a steel frame with timber joists and plywood flooring and a multi-layer curtain wall skin (inside to out something like: PB, insulation, cement board, more insulation, plywood, membrane and finally zinc sheet). I've done a few similar ones. Supposedly better in terms of carbon footprint than concrete. Where we do chipboard flooring it's always 22 or 25mm P5 but it's always glued and screwed, never nailed, because in our high traffic environment nailing always squeaks eventually. It can also shell the flooring screed above nail heads (in general all vinyl and carpeted floors are screeded first with a latex-type compound) - and that in turn transmits through vinyl flooring (and costs a bit of brass to put right).

BTW the IM350s we had didn't jam - they overheated and either seized or shut down and had to be left 20 to 30 minutes to cool off before they'd work again

Like you I've never seen anyone with a Makita gas nailer - but then I've only ever seen one Hilti gas nailer (which comparisons revealed was no better than a Senco GT90 - but at 2-1/2 times the price). I believe that Fin's one had a few issues
"The person who never made a mistake, never made anything" - Albert Einstein

"I too will something make, And joy in the making" - Robert Bridges, 1844~1930

"The fundamental cause of the trouble is that in the modern world the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt.” - Bertrand Russell from The Triumph of Stupidity", 1933
D4np
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Re: New paslode nail gun question

Post by D4np »

You would think that 100mm centres of nails would weaken the ply wouldn’t you - but like you said there are more layers on top of it .

We use caberdeck 22mm and D4 expanding glue , and fixed 5 nails per board per joist . Private jobs I would you the D4 glue and screws . Had problems with my floors at home creaking etc so I took it up (just had couple of ring shank nails per joist per board - no glue !) and refitted with D4 glue and some chipboard screws - perfecto!


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Re: New paslode nail gun question

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Job and Knock wrote:"Passy finger"
D4np wrote:Also nailing at 100mm centres ?! How often would you get a job to do that ? What type of flooring were you using ?
Remiss of me not to respond to this earlier - the flooring was double and triple skinned 18mm spruce T&G plywood which was surface and joint glued and the nailing pattern was dependent on the traffic load in that particular part of the building (as defined by the S/E). In main routes, tops of stairs, lift apron areas, etc with the highest traffic loadings we were on 100mm centres. Elsewhere it was 150 or even 200mm. The nails were all ring shanks. This is a commercial build environment where the structure is a steel frame with timber joists and plywood flooring and a multi-layer curtain wall skin (inside to out something like: PB, insulation, cement board, more insulation, plywood, membrane and finally zinc sheet). I've done a few similar ones. Supposedly better in terms of carbon footprint than concrete. Where we do chipboard flooring it's always 22 or 25mm P5 but it's always glued and screwed, never nailed, because in our high traffic environment nailing always squeaks eventually. It can also shell the flooring screed above nail heads (in general all vinyl and carpeted floors are screeded first with a latex-type compound) - and that in turn transmits through vinyl flooring (and costs a bit of brass to put right).

BTW the IM350s we had didn't jam - they overheated and either seized or shut down and had to be left 20 to 30 minutes to cool off before they'd work again

Like you I've never seen anyone with a Makita gas nailer - but then I've only ever seen one Hilti gas nailer (which comparisons revealed was no better than a Senco GT90 - but at 2-1/2 times the price). I believe that Fin's one had a few issues
I remember I ,had literally the day before, brought the dcn660 and a hilti rep came on site and was trying to flog the hilti nail gun . I asked him if it was gasless and he started laughing at me (thinking I was on about 2nd fix pinners) saying a 1st fix gasless gun doesn’t exist he was stood there arguing with me about it so I went and got it .. his face was a picture . They must have been released at a similar time


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SteveJB
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Re: New paslode nail gun question

Post by SteveJB »

Thanks for your input guys, it made some interesting reading.

Steve
D4np
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Re: New paslode nail gun question

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SteveJB wrote:Thanks for your input guys, it made some interesting reading.

Steve
k

Sorry we went off topic a little bit ! Have you decided what you are going to do ?


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Re: New paslode nail gun question

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D4np wrote:Had problems with my floors at home creaking etc so I took it up (just had couple of ring shank nails per joist per board - no glue !) and refitted with D4 glue and some chipboard screws - perfecto!
I blame a combination of price work and poor quality control for allowing stuff like that through, but it happens all the time. As you say, with the right glue, enough of it, and the right number of fixings things are far, far better
"The person who never made a mistake, never made anything" - Albert Einstein

"I too will something make, And joy in the making" - Robert Bridges, 1844~1930

"The fundamental cause of the trouble is that in the modern world the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt.” - Bertrand Russell from The Triumph of Stupidity", 1933
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Re: New paslode nail gun question

Post by SteveJB »

D4np wrote:
SteveJB wrote:Thanks for your input guys, it made some interesting reading.

Steve
k

Sorry we went off topic a little bit ! Have you decided what you are going to do ?


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Yeah, Im going for the IM350+, I'm guessing there will be more work where if they are supplying fixings, they will probably be using them. If that makes sense......
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