DIY shed wall and roof material (pics)

[The Engineer]

I'm currently in the process of building my own shed as my sizing requirements are unconventional.

I've framed it using 3x2 and allowed an opening for a window.

T&G cladding will be used for the front and sides. The rear will be up against fencing and hence thought I would board that as it's not visible.

I also want to board the roof and then add tiles. The tiles are more for aesthetics rather than functionality.

Question is what board material so I require and how do I make it waterproof?

Here's a few pics of the build so far.

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[The Engineer]

P.s. I'm a novice at best so any ideas, suggestions or help is much appreciated [emoji106]

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[Argyll]

For the roof you could use either OSB3 or external grade plywood. OSB3 would be the cheaper alternative than plywood.

I can't understand why you would want to board the back and sides. I would have thought T&G cladding would be the cheaper option. External plywood is good for the roof and floor but I personally wouldn't use it to board the side of a shed as it will eventually de-laminate. It wouldn't last as long as the T&G cladding.

Not sure where you are located but you should leave at least 1 metre space from your boundary so you can get access to the shed to paint it etc.

[The Engineer]

For the roof you could use either OSB3 or external grade plywood. OSB3 would be the cheaper alternative than plywood.

I can't understand why you would want to board the back and sides. I would have thought T&G cladding would be the cheaper option. External plywood is good for the roof and floor but I personally wouldn't use it to board the side of a shed as it will eventually de-laminate. It wouldn't last as long as the T&G cladding.

Not sure where you are located but you should leave at least 1 metre space from your boundary so you can get access to the shed to paint it etc.

Sorry, should have been more clear. I want to board the back and roof only.

The front and sides will be T&G clad.

You think I should clad, front back and sides?

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[Argyll]

Sorry I thought you meant boarding one side as well. Regardless I reckon you'll be better cladding the full lot rather than boarding with external ply. External ply is quite expensive.

How do you plan on treating the rear of the shed each year when it's up against the fence?

[The Engineer]

Sorry I thought you meant boarding one side as well. Regardless I reckon you'll be better cladding the full lot rather than boarding with external ply. External ply is quite expensive.

How do you plan on treating the rear of the shed each year when it's up against the fence?

The reason why I'm having the shed built where it is, is because the shed at the top of the garden has been broken into (and that of my neighbours too) some on several occasions.

So having a small one next to the patio.

It's going to be difficult but I'll either remove the fence panels to access or use a long reach roller. There will be a small gap between the back and the fence.

Not ideal but needs must

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[big-all]

would not use sheet material but clad as the front
remember your planks will be about 5-7mm narrower than stated and if they are tongue and groove then 14-16mm less as in 5" t&g will cover around 109mm
ideally a 6-8" overhang at the back to protect the back but that would "lock in" the fence panels preventing you from treating the back unless you can make the roof detachable
your timbers should be off the ground by at least 12mm preferably on something like dpm[damp proof membrane ]or offcuts off roofing felt to stop ware transfer

[The Engineer]

Great thanks for the info chaps. With regards to the roof.

If I get OSB3 and then cover it with tiles do I need to do anything else to the OSB3 to make it waterproof?

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[Argyll]

Great thanks for the info chaps. With regards to the roof.

If I get OSB3 and then cover it with tiles do I need to do anything else to the OSB3 to make it waterproof?

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I've used a roofing membrane in the past.

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Roofin ... ane/p78887

[The Engineer]

would not use sheet material but clad as the front
remember your planks will be about 5-7mm narrower than stated and if they are tongue and groove then 14-16mm less as in 5" t&g will cover around 109mm
ideally a 6-8" overhang at the back to protect the back but that would "lock in" the fence panels preventing you from treating the back unless you can make the roof detachable
your timbers should be off the ground by at least 12mm preferably on something like dpm[damp proof membrane ]or offcuts off roofing felt to stop ware transfer

Thinking of getting this DPC to lay on the bottom of the framework, I will fold it up the sides and staple into the framework.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/capital-vall ... -30m/78665

Will this do the job for protecting the base framework? The framework will sit on the decking permanently (so dpc will sit between the decking and the framework)





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[Argyll]

I would also bolt it down using several washers between the framework and the decking. This would leave a 5mm to 10mm gap to let air circulate and prevent a bridge between the decking and the framework. It's probably overkill but it's what I would do.