Kitchen wiring

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dmoblay
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Kitchen wiring

Post by dmoblay »

I am planning a refit of some rooms in the house and will have the ceilings down, so i want to take the opportunity to run new wiring ready for when i do the kitchen later this year.

Intention is to have an electric induction hob, integrated electric oven, integrated matching microwave and an extractor hood.

My question is whether to run a single 6mm feed for the appliances or whether they need to be on two separate ones.

The hob and the extractor will be at the opposite end of the kitchen (about 5m) from the oven and microwave.

I haven’t confirmed exactly which appliances yet but likely to be from Ikea.

Oh...there will also be a fridge but i assume I can just plug that into a socket on the ring main, or at worst run a fused spur to it.

Can anyone advise please?

Thanks.
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Someone-Else
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Re: Kitchen wiring

Post by Someone-Else »

It will depend on what you actually get as to cable size.
I would run 6mm for each, better safe than sorry (yes it shouldn't need it but that's now.........)
Oh do yourself a favour, don't have an integrated microwave. Build a cupboard with ventilation at the back and a nice trim. Then when the microwave packs up you can easily change it.

I hate most integrated stuff. I never wanted it but we have hob (gas) and oven / grille and fridge and Freezer.

Freezer packed up years ago, hob only half works, and don't even mention integrated washing machine
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Would you hit a nail with a shoe because you don't have a hammer? of course not, then why work on anything electrical without a means of testing Click Here to buy a "tester" just because it works, does NOT mean it is safe.

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ericmark
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Re: Kitchen wiring

Post by ericmark »

If an appliance is protected with a 13A fuse be it in a plug or a FCU then the size of the MCB/RBCO/Fuse feeding the socket does not matter, as long as it protects the cable. However once over 13A we have no reasonable sized disconnection units able to disconnect in the event of a fault, so the protective device size is controlled by what the appliance manufacturer says.

The standard size for a cooker is 32A however some people today do fit 45A supplies, with everything on with my cooker looking at somewhere around 50A, so with stand alone units 45A is reasonable, however with separate oven and hob it is possible that the oven can have a 16A limit, in mothers kitchen a SWA cable feeds a mini consumer unit with 4 RBCO's oven, hob, sockets, and boiler, however it does not look really good stuck in the kitchen.

So some one needs to design, this could be 6 bunched cables going to main consumer unit, or a mini consumer unit, or some other option, but the main thing about design is you need to know what you are supplying. Of course one can over engineer and use 10mm cable for two positions where the cooker may go, and if it does not go there then simply swap the RBCO/MCB, personally I would use 4 or 6 mm and limit the supply to 25 or 32 amp.

But we can't design anything without knowing exactly what is to be fitted.
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