Shower fan ceiling mounted pull cord switch replacment

[solorize]

Hi,

I currently have a ceiling mounted pull cord switch that turns ON and OFF a fan
in my shower cubical, similar to what is shown below:



The problem I am having is that as the fan has a 5minute shut down cycle after the
cord is pulled to turn the fan off. But sometimes I forget if I have pulled the siwtch OFF or not.
So I end up having to wait 5mins to see if it has turned off or just go to work and
hope that I had turned it off.

Obviously I dont want to be wasting electricity with it running all day, so was wondering
if anyone can suggest a ceiling mounted switch (similar to the one shown, i.e not a flush
switch, so I don't have to cut out an area of the ceiling to mount the fitting), which has
either a light or a an ON / OFF indicator to show if it is ON or OFF, that I can install.

I am not sure what the current wiring is in the existing fitting, so if there are various
ways to connect a new fitting, I could open the current fitting and try and take a photo
to show what wires are there to make sure it would be compatable with the new
switch.

Thanks in advance

[EJJ150847]

You want something like this, although I am concerned that you say your switch is 'within the cubicle'.

Can you confirm this.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electri ... 633/p28846


Or this
http://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-50a- ... neon/90597


John

[Someone-Else]

Alternatively you may want

But it also needs THIS
THIS
THIS
Oh, and of course THIS

It all costs just over a fiver, and can be mounted anywhere.

[solorize]

[quote="EJJ150847"]You want something like this, although I am concerned that you say your switch is 'within the cubicle'.

Can you confirm this./quote]

Hi John, Thanks for the info.

Sorry, what I wrote earlier may have been a bit misleading with regards
to the position of the Pull Cord Switch.

What I was trying to say was that the extractor fan is located within shower
cubical ceiling, but the switch for the fan is outside but next to the shower cubical.

Please see below photograph, pull switch in top right of image.



I like the look of the pull switch in the second URL link you gave, as it would
mean that I would not have to cut out a hole behind in the ceiling as I would
have to do with the one in the first URL link.

Do you know what the wiring diagram would be for the one in the second URL
you gave? As I need to make sure it will work with the wires that are connecting
to my current switch.


@Someone-else,

I would prefer as mentioned above to be able to just take off the old
switch and replace with a surface mounted fitting, rather than a flush
mounted one which I would need to start cutting out the area for it
to mount into. But thanks anyway for the information =)

[Someone-Else]

Could always get a surface mount box.

As for wiring diagram, none required, just a strait swap, but bear in mind the neon will probably go out when the switch is on. (No neutral required at switch)

My suggestion you connect it at the fan end (across neutral and switched live) and the neon comes on when the switch is on.

[EJJ150847]

The second item would probably be a straight swap, make a note of where the cables go, take a pic first is best.

As Someone-Else says connect the neon to the output terminals.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-50a- ... neon/90597


John

[solorize]

My suggestion you connect it at the fan end (across neutral and switched live) and the neon comes on when the switch is on.

Could you explain in layman terms what the above means as I am a bit
unsure and don't want to mess it up by doing something wrong.
As I dont have a lot of experience with wiring etc..

If you could cobble together a quick sketch in MicrosoftPaint and post it up
just so I can visually see what you are suggesting that would be a great help.

Thanks in advance.

[Someone-Else]

Your fan will have 3 wires connected to it (Not counting the earth) One will be permanent live, one will be switched live, the other will be neutral.

You connect the neon across neutral and switched live. Job done.

It does not matter which way round the neon is wired.
After you have switched the mains off to connect the neon you will have one of 3 possibilities. (after you have switched the mains back on)

1) The neon is not on, pull the string the neon comes on. Congratulations you got it right first time.
2) The neon is on before you pull the string. You have wired it across live and neutral, not switched live and neutral.
3) The neon is not on, pull the string neon still not on. You have connected the neon to live and switched live.

Most timer fans have "markings" telling you which terminal is which, so you should get it right first time.

[solorize]

Hi,

Thanks for the explanation.

I have had a look at my current switch and there seems as you say to be
3 wires connected (as well as the two earths, which are connected to the back housing).

I have taken a photo of the "Current switches wiring" and the "New switch wiring diagram"
below.

I am a bit unsure which wires are which, and which of the wires I should be connecting
to the new connectors on the "New switch", as it looks like both the Blue wires (which
I would have thought were "Neutral" are terminated into a block?
Also I am not sure what the currently connected yellow wire is indicated as (2) on my photo?

Could you have a look at the two images below and confirm which wires
I should be connecting which connectors on the new switch.

Thanks in advance!

Current Switch Wiring:


Wiring Diagram for New Switch:

[Someone-Else]

It really depends how who wired it, actually wired it as to what colour does what.

My suggestion is appertaining to the fan, and where to connect it, but you could try the switch. I would connect it to the blues and the already connected to the switch Yellow.

[solorize]

So would I connect as follows;


The two RED wires (one from each sheathed bundle), connect both into the same "L" on the "IN" side of the new switch.

The YELLOW wire (that is currently connected), connect to the "L" on the "OUT" side of the switch.

The BLUE wire (currently not connected) which is in the same sheathed bundle which has the RED and
YELLOW wires (currently connected), connect to the "N" on the "IN" side of the new switch.

The other BLUE wire (currently not connected) which is in the sheathed bundle which has only it's RED
wire (currently connected), connect to the "N" on the "OUT" side of the new switch.

Connect both the Earth wires into the Earth connector.

Leave the other currently unconnected YELLOW wire unconnected.

Hope the above makes sense!


Out of interest do you know why the Blues are not currently connected?

If not, I may have to get an electrician in, as I don't want to blow
something up by wiring it in wrongly ;-) especially this close to Xmas.

[Someone-Else]

.......Hope the above makes sense!.

er, no. Sorry it really makes no sense to me what so ever. (You should leave everything where it is and add more, which you do not mention)

Out of interest do you know why the Blues are not currently connected?

They are connected, They are connected to each other. They are not connected to the switch because they are not required by the switch.

If not, I may have to get an electrician in, as I don't want to blow
something up by wiring it in wrongly ;-) especially this close to Xmas.

I can't see you "blowing something up" but I can see that in this case that perhaps you should get some one in. (But you could still get the parts for them)

[solorize]

OK, Cheers.

I think I will get someone in.

I have the new pull chord switch. So would just need an electrician to fit it.

Do you know how much someone would charge to install the new switch?
Just so I have an idea.

[Someone-Else]

Well, if you have gone an brought a new pull cord switch, why don't you install it? it should be a strait swap. My advice was pertaining to fitting a "remote" neon

If you still wish to get some one in to do it, I am not being awkward, but I have no idea how much they will charge, as it depends on several factors, and even then there is no g'tee I would get it right, best answer, call a couple of local electricians and ask how much.

[wine~o]

As per diagram...