Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

This forum is for reviews of Budget power tools such as B&Q / Wickes own brand, Direct power / Titan / challenge / Performance power / Erbauer / Skill/ Bosch Green / Black & Decker

Moderator: Moderators

Post Reply
User avatar
Argyll
Senior Member
Posts: 3806
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 3:58 pm
Has thanked: 845 times
Been thanked: 318 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by Argyll » Wed Jul 03, 2019 6:59 pm

I used mine for the first time in anger today. I also used an evolution track guide rail ST2800 and the Triton saw blade that Peter Millard had recommended on YouTube. I was cutting a solid door length ways. I wanted to take 2mm off. After making the first cut on a scrap piece of timber to align the blade with the plastic edge and then taking off the 2mm off the door I noticed the tool seemed to struggle and several times the blade almost stopped. I wasn't forcing the saw, I was letting it cut on it's own steam but it seemed that it wasn't enough. The blade also did not cut in direct line with the cutting edge. I'm not sure if this had something to do with the small trim I was cutting off and perhaps the blade was being kicked off line I don't know. At one point the blade was rubbing alongside the door and not actually cutting the edge. Maybe it's not designed to take off so small a trim. Let me know your opinion.

I also noticed the two red knobs on the saw that keep it tight against the track loosened a couple of times even though I tightened them up with an Allen key.

I'm going to continue with it for a couple of weeks but I can see myself returning it and buying the DeWalt. Ideally I'd like to try the DeWalt and Makita track saw as it's the first time I've used a plunge saw so I can't compare it to anything else.

Rorschach
Senior Member
Posts: 3685
Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:35 pm
Has thanked: 46 times
Been thanked: 747 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by Rorschach » Wed Jul 03, 2019 7:19 pm

You are not the first to have some issues with the latest version of the saw unfortunately.
These users thanked the author Rorschach for the post:
Argyll (Wed Jul 03, 2019 7:30 pm)
Rating: 7.14%
London mike 61
Senior Member
Posts: 822
Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2014 8:57 am
Location: Essex
Has thanked: 147 times
Been thanked: 197 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by London mike 61 » Wed Jul 03, 2019 7:29 pm

Thanks for sharing the video :thumbright:
I was thinking of buying one but I’ll wait for a few more reviews on its use before I go and get one.

Mike
These users thanked the author London mike 61 for the post:
Argyll (Wed Jul 03, 2019 7:30 pm)
Rating: 7.14%
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!
darrenba
Senior Member
Posts: 2854
Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 11:02 am
Location: Dorset
Has thanked: 104 times
Been thanked: 463 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by darrenba » Wed Jul 03, 2019 7:48 pm

How many teeth on the blade? You need a blade suitable for ripping, something like a 24 tooth.

For 2mm I would have planed it
User avatar
Argyll
Senior Member
Posts: 3806
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 3:58 pm
Has thanked: 845 times
Been thanked: 318 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by Argyll » Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:19 pm

darrenba wrote:
Wed Jul 03, 2019 7:48 pm
How many teeth on the blade? You need a blade suitable for ripping, something like a 24 tooth.

For 2mm I would have planed it
I upgraded from the standard blade to the 48t Triton blade. I'd imagine a 22 tooth wouldn't make a neat cut.
User avatar
Argyll
Senior Member
Posts: 3806
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 3:58 pm
Has thanked: 845 times
Been thanked: 318 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by Argyll » Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:22 pm

I just bought the Titan one from SF. I collect on the 5th. Im taking the Parkside one back tomorrow after reading Rorschach's comment about people having issues with them.
darrenba
Senior Member
Posts: 2854
Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 11:02 am
Location: Dorset
Has thanked: 104 times
Been thanked: 463 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by darrenba » Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:29 pm

A 48t blade is great for cross cut or mdf/ply but useless for ripping solid wood along the grain.
Rorschach
Senior Member
Posts: 3685
Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:35 pm
Has thanked: 46 times
Been thanked: 747 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by Rorschach » Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:55 pm

It's this most recent batch (C1 I think) that are having the troubles, they are hit and miss, some are perfect, some are not.

Previous batches I have not seen any bad reports about them at all. I have one from the first batch and it is great.
User avatar
big-all
Pro Carpenter
Posts: 21166
Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2006 10:11 pm
Location: redhill surrey an auld reekie laddie
Has thanked: 634 times
Been thanked: 1891 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by big-all » Wed Jul 03, 2019 10:02 pm

ok general notes
any cut that doesnt hold the blade "captive" with any saw will push the blade sideways this can be exacibated by any slack slop or deflextion in the machine or blade
by captive i mean the blade is cutting a width greater than the blade so solid waste is left on the floor after a cut rather than mostly rubbing on the side that will tend to push the blade sideways
and as you found the solution is often several passes where each pass will rub more bumps off until the blade has little sideways push so near to where you want it

this will happen with most saws especially with slop and thin kerf blades
These users thanked the author big-all for the post:
Argyll (Thu Jul 04, 2019 9:02 am)
Rating: 7.14%
we are all ------------------still learning
User avatar
Argyll
Senior Member
Posts: 3806
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 3:58 pm
Has thanked: 845 times
Been thanked: 318 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by Argyll » Thu Jul 04, 2019 9:03 am

big-all wrote:
Wed Jul 03, 2019 10:02 pm
ok general notes
any cut that doesnt hold the blade "captive" with any saw will push the blade sideways this can be exacibated by any slack slop or deflextion in the machine or blade
by captive i mean the blade is cutting a width greater than the blade so solid waste is left on the floor after a cut rather than mostly rubbing on the side that will tend to push the blade sideways
and as you found the solution is often several passes where each pass will rub more bumps off until the blade has little sideways push so near to where you want it

this will happen with most saws especially with slop and thin kerf blades
I'm still not impressed by it so I'm returning it tomorrow.
User avatar
Argyll
Senior Member
Posts: 3806
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 3:58 pm
Has thanked: 845 times
Been thanked: 318 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by Argyll » Thu Jul 04, 2019 9:03 am

darrenba wrote:
Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:29 pm
A 48t blade is great for cross cut or mdf/ply but useless for ripping solid wood along the grain.
I wouldn't say useless. Maybe a bit slower but it shouldn't have been that bad.
User avatar
ayjay
Senior Member
Posts: 8379
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:51 pm
Has thanked: 408 times
Been thanked: 1421 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by ayjay » Thu Jul 04, 2019 10:39 am

Argyll wrote:
Thu Jul 04, 2019 9:03 am
darrenba wrote:
Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:29 pm
A 48t blade is great for cross cut or mdf/ply but useless for ripping solid wood along the grain.
I wouldn't say useless. Maybe a bit slower but it shouldn't have been that bad.
Ripping down the grain efficiently is a completely different operation to cutting across the grain.

The teeth don't cut the wood fibres, they chisel them away.

I still have a hand powered Rip Saw (check google images and they're so out of fashion that it won't even find one). It only has about 2 or 3 points (per inch) compared to a crosscut saw which for general use will be 8 - 10 pt, (mine actually has finer teeth at the front of the blade to make it easier to start a cut and larger teeth further down the blade).
One day it will all be firewood.
fin
Senior Member
Posts: 6808
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 6:49 pm
Location: south tyneside
Has thanked: 30 times
Been thanked: 522 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by fin » Tue Jul 09, 2019 5:40 pm

ive got several 48 tooth blades for my festool track saw and also for ripping i think a 28 tooth and a 12 tooth. i use the 48 tooth mostly for laminate worktops. oak worktops id normally go the 28 tooth or whatever tooth count it is... or maybe the 12 even. obv theres finishing off needed anyway on the cut that youve made in most instances
These users thanked the author fin for the post:
Argyll (Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:42 am)
Rating: 7.14%
sammy.se
Senior Member
Posts: 181
Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2018 5:44 pm
Has thanked: 41 times
Been thanked: 38 times

Parkside Plunge Saw-Not Impressed

Post by sammy.se » Thu Jul 11, 2019 10:36 am

Sounds like you've had some bad luck there Argyll, sorry to hear that.
The right blade makes a big difference - you must use a ripping blade (~24t) for cutting along the grain. The difference (when ripping) using a ripping blade vs cross cut blade is night and day, even on an expensive saw.
Those tension knobs do tend to slack off - it's annoying - I do have to check them before every cut. You do have to make sure they are both equally tensioned, so that you have the saw and blade perfectly parallel to the track.
Post Reply

Return to “budget power tools ”