What paint + equipment for the outside of the house?

[OM2]

2+ years ago we had an extension made to our house.
The builders put some basic rendering on and said it should be painted after a few months.
I never got round to it! I've missed 2 summers.

I wanted brilliant white in grainy texture.
I was going to use Sandtex paint I had seen in B&Q.
Recently, I saw a Dulux one as well.

Any recommendations? Where's the best place to buy? (In the UK)

ALSO: what equipment do I need?

Brushes?
Rollers?
Other items like spirit or drill paint mixers?
Should I use a jet spray to clean first? Or just use a normal hose?

Some of the walls have chalk drawings made by an expert artist (my 6 year old daughter).
Should I try to get off or just paint over?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.

[OchAye]

Caveat, 45 years ago (yup I am that old) that I used a masonry paint, and it was a textured paint.

I wanted brilliant white in grainy texture.
I was going to use Sandtex paint I had seen in B&Q.
Recently, I saw a Dulux one as well.

Any recommendations? Where's the best place to buy? (In the UK)

I would go for a Trade paint will cost you more than what you can get at B&Poo and other chain stores. In my case I am a fan boy of Crown (I got no shares or any interest) so I would chose Sandtex Trade, but as you have realised there are others too.

I personally would not - at this instance - use textured paint but you may have your reasons for it. Textured paint has sand in it (watch the spelling of Sandtex), if later you must do any repairs to the render e.g. cracks, they will show. Textured paint is best for hiding problems/imperfections.

ALSO: what equipment do I need?

Brushes?
Rollers?
Other items like spirit or drill paint mixers?
Should I use a jet spray to clean first? Or just use a normal hose?

Roller tick! Long pile if you use a smooth paint, or long pile if you want a little texture with a textured paint or a masonry roller sleeve [longer than long pile] if you want more texture.
Brush tick!. Where you have to use the brush you will have to practice and stub the brush on the paint to achieve a similar effect to that of the roller.
Depending on the height you have to reach, perhaps step ladders or something else and if you don't feel like rollering the paint from the steps, then you need a pole for your roller and in this case you need a 12" roller and frame as the 9" is too difficult to control with a pole.
There are some paddles for around a fiver that you could use with your drill. I had little success with them as I sprayed more paint around the container than not. Very slow turning drill is a necessity ... or a (flatish) wooden stick + elbow grease until you get stiff peaks.

A large paint tray (toolstation has or had bigger trays for 9" and 12" roller sleeves, or a scuttle but it is much harder to use (unless you intend to paint the ground too).

I can't help you with cleaning as all I have ever used is elbow grease :-( You must not have any algae left on the wall.

Some of the walls have chalk drawings made by an expert artist (my 6 year old daughter).
Should I try to get off or just paint over?

I would use a scrubbing brush as I clean the rest and remove what comes off. The drawings should not really bleed through the paint but if you are doing the rest of the wall preparation you might as well go over them. Too expensive if you find out that after two coats they bleed through the paint.

My final bit is ... read the Data Sheet for the paint you like at Sandtex even if you end up using some other make of paint. That first coat (first of two coats) is important and making sure it adheres to the surface even more so. I have not got a clue if "render" is classed as porous and should be sealed or you go straight on with the first coat. If it is cement based it should not be porous but ... However, you must not use their sealing whatever it is on a surface that does not need sealing. Most/all? masonry paints will follow similar principles.

If you are still with me choose a trade paint ... dulux (have a fat credit card ready) and crown (crown and sandtex are in the same group) and Johnstones have their own decorators' centres and many independent paint merchants will stock branded masonry paints. Just don't bother giving your money to B&Q, homebase, toolstation, screwfix etc.

If it helps a little

[ayjay]

The drawings should not really bleed through the paint but if you are doing the rest of the wall preparation you might as well go over them. Too expensive if you find out that after two coats they bleed through the paint.

I don't know what pigments they use for chalk, but for reds (Iron Oxide possibly - that's powdered rust basically, and rust bleeds through most things) and blues (possibly Cobalt Oxide or Cobalt Carbonate - but they're both expensive, maybe too expensive for kids chalks) will bleed through most things.

This is just based on my use of oxides/pigments for pottery, where they survive and bleed through at temperatures of well in excess of 1000°C., I can't see masonry paint holding them back.

[OchAye]

Ta Ayjay. I doubt that the stuff would apply to childrens' chalk, health and safety etc. But I thought, worth mentioning to the OP (if he shows up again) not to use a wire brush to clean anything on the wall as that could result in rust spots.