Pipes, Joists & Floorboards
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Pipes, Joists & Floorboards
Many years ago, I put down T&G floorboards in the bedroom. I've ripped up the carpet in the landing to continue T&G into the landing.
The problem is that, when I did the bedroom, I used a 190mm, plain board to avoid a joint over the pipes. It seemed a good idea at the time but, over time, traffic has created a crack in stages, length-wise along the 190mm board.
Any suggestions as to how I can fix this, firstly in the bedroom and then before I attempt the landing?
The problem is that, when I did the bedroom, I used a 190mm, plain board to avoid a joint over the pipes. It seemed a good idea at the time but, over time, traffic has created a crack in stages, length-wise along the 190mm board.
Any suggestions as to how I can fix this, firstly in the bedroom and then before I attempt the landing?
- big-all
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not a lot you can do other than replace the board with another and hope it lasts
a 100mm span across the grain is not a good idea you would have been better with 2x50mm with a 25mm in between for support
if theres enough room between pipe and boards something like these may work on the joist or within an inch if thats too much work
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Qty-10-MENDI ... 0736734414
a 100mm span across the grain is not a good idea you would have been better with 2x50mm with a 25mm in between for support
if theres enough room between pipe and boards something like these may work on the joist or within an inch if thats too much work
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Qty-10-MENDI ... 0736734414
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What about a Joist Hanger upside down?
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Heavy-D ... 5/p/214883
2mm thick steel and 76mm wide. Although, currently out of stock.
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Heavy-D ... 5/p/214883
2mm thick steel and 76mm wide. Although, currently out of stock.
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I was looking for an Edit button to add, if you took the photos of your problem, and an image of a joist hanger, to any local Engineering shop, Blacksmith, Technical College, etc, then they would be able to fabricate suitable 'saddles' in perhaps, 4mm steel at a relatively low cost.
It only needs a load bearing/spreading element welded to vertical fixings with a strengthening gusset at the interface.
It only needs a load bearing/spreading element welded to vertical fixings with a strengthening gusset at the interface.
- big-all
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yes a 100 ways to skin a catahfix wrote: ↑Sun Oct 06, 2019 10:23 pm I'd use timber plates like [url=<span class="skimlinks-unlinked">https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-han ... 9215</span>]these [/url].
ah
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- ayjay
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One day it will all be firewood.
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I'd always equate those with strengthening Trusses or sucklike. Those would need some very accurate 'chisel work' or a Router. It would depend on the skills of the OP although, if he 'wood butchered' it too far, then Screwfix 'do' a bag of plastic shims. Various sizes.
Of how to 'skin a cat'?Got any pics?
Couple of weeks ago, country lane. Came off a bend and there was a dead deer in the roadway. Legs akimbo. Hadn't been run over. Just struck and killed. I should have thought quicker because a mate of mine used to be a Butcher. Darn.
Get to the next village and a colleague had stopped in his car, examining for any frontal damage. Aha! It was him that killed Bambie.
There was some damage, but not expensively so.
- ayjay
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Yes of course of how to skin a cat, what else?Grumps wrote: ↑Mon Oct 07, 2019 7:49 pmOf how to 'skin a cat'?Got any pics?
Couple of weeks ago, country lane. Came off a bend and there was a dead deer in the roadway. Legs akimbo. Hadn't been run over. Just struck and killed. I should have thought quicker because a mate of mine used to be a Butcher. Darn.
Get to the next village and a colleague had stopped in his car, examining for any frontal damage. Aha! It was him that killed Bambie.
There was some damage, but not expensively so.
£700 my van repairs cost when I hit a deer, it was only a glancing blow as I'd almost stopped by the time we came together - 10mph max when I hit it and the damn thing ran off quicker than I ever could have.
Someone died on the same bit of road a couple of years later - hit a stag and it's head came through the windscreen - death by antler.
One day it will all be firewood.
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Did you mean to attach them to the joists or to the wide floorboard to strengthen it at the joist area?ahfix wrote: ↑Sun Oct 06, 2019 10:23 pm I'd use timber plates like [url=<span class="skimlinks-unlinked">https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-han ... 9215</span>]these [/url].
I've opened the floor again to see if there's room between the top of the joists and the top of the pipes. On several joists, the pipes are no more than a millimetre from the top of the joists - so I think nothing can be recessed into the joists.
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I was expecting the joists to be notched to allow the top of the plate to sit flush with the top of the joist.
You might be able to sit the plate on top of the joist and trim or sand down the back of the floor board to make the plates recessed into the floor.
ah
You might be able to sit the plate on top of the joist and trim or sand down the back of the floor board to make the plates recessed into the floor.
ah
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Not sure if this nail stopper would do, the bigger of the two should overlap the gap but no idea if at 1.6mm it is thick enough.
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