Timber built garden room

Wood working questions and answers in here please

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Victorianmodern
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Post by Victorianmodern »

I said they are 300 centres as that’s what he’s told me. But looking at the floor photo that’s not possible if the building has a floor width of 3.2’ across. It would make them 400mm centres, wouldn’t it?
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Post by dewaltdisney »

I think the problem here is not the errors made in construction it is rectifying the problem. It is fairly clear that the floor bounce is caused by an unsupported span and this can be sorted by creating supports in the span centres. How difficult would it be to pull up the floor in the centre and gain access to the underfloor area? Either a sleeper wall or timber struts would do it. With timber struts they would have to have some DPC strip under the base to stop rot.

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Post by big-all »

have you got any pictures off the floor now with flooring material visible
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Victorianmodern
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Post by Victorianmodern »

dewaltdisney wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 7:37 am
I think the problem here is not the errors made in construction it is rectifying the problem. It is fairly clear that the floor bounce is caused by an unsupported span and this can be sorted by creating supports in the span centres. How difficult would it be to pull up the floor in the centre and gain access to the underfloor area? Either a sleeper wall or timber struts would do it. With timber struts they would have to have some DPC strip under the base to stop rot.

DWD
I do t think he’s going to offer to do that and he wants paying. Hes
Victorianmodern
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Post by Victorianmodern »

big-all wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 8:24 am
have you got any pictures off the floor now with flooring material visible
You mean the finished floor with laminate flooring on?
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Post by Chippo1 »

Don’t pay him the others here seem to suggest it’s not constructed properly , so tell him to put it right ! At his cost or you will get it corrected and deduct cost from his final account. So easy to say here, difficult sometimes to front a guy up and say/do that.

I don’t think it’s designed installed properly either , 400ctrs with more Noggins and maximum 1.2 spacing on the supporting walls , I mean if he had done that he could have used 4 x 2 timber and reduced height further. That’s how I would have constructed it. The 30mm of mortar is of no concern or the fact that the concrete footing is slightly out of level. Often the first courses of masonry about a concrete footing are very varied to overcome imperfections in the concrete level , brickies correct this with the first couple of courses laid.
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Post by Victorianmodern »

Chippo1 wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 9:36 am
Don’t pay him the others here seem to suggest it’s not constructed properly , so tell him to put it right ! At his cost or you will get it corrected and deduct cost from his final account. So easy to say here, difficult sometimes to front a guy up and say/do that.

I don’t think it’s designed installed properly either , 400ctrs with more Noggins and maximum 1.2 spacing on the supporting walls , I mean if he had done that he could have used 4 x 2 timber and reduced height further. That’s how I would have constructed it. The 30mm of mortar is of no concern or the fact that the concrete footing is slightly out of level. Often the first courses of masonry about a concrete footing are very varied to overcome imperfections in the concrete level , brickies correct this with the first couple of courses laid.
I agree re the mortar, but has the building is moving so much won’t that eventually start wearing away?
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Post by big-all »

Victorianmodern wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 9:26 am
big-all wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 8:24 am
have you got any pictures off the floor now with flooring material visible
You mean the finished floor with laminate flooring on?
no i was hoping it would be unfinished and you could unscrew some central boards and go from there

not sure laminate is the best choice from a practical point off veiw
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Post by Victorianmodern »

Also he has put a shingle soakaway at the back of the building. When I say at the back. I mean 10mm from building. Soakaway is 400mm deep and 200mm square.

He’s telling me that’s ok, my gut says it’s not. He also says no regs apply to this building as under 15m2.

Anyone of offer advice on this?
Last edited by Victorianmodern on Sat Aug 01, 2020 10:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Victorianmodern »

big-all wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 10:14 am
Victorianmodern wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 9:26 am
big-all wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 8:24 am
have you got any pictures off the floor now with flooring material visible
You mean the finished floor with laminate flooring on?
no i was hoping it would be unfinished and you could unscrew some central boards and go from there

not sure laminate is the best choice from a practical point off veiw
Obviously the least of my concerns at the moment but why would you say that?
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Post by Victorianmodern »

Also thanks so far for advice guys. Really helpful if you all.
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Post by big-all »

laminate should in general be avoided in high wear areas ,dosn't like being wet or grit much
so assuming a garden room will be lots off ins and outs in all weathers with shoes on
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Post by Victorianmodern »

big-all wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 1:27 pm
laminate should in general be avoided in high wear areas ,dosn't like being wet or grit much
so assuming a garden room will be lots off ins and outs in all weathers with shoes on
Oh I see. It’s commercial laminate they use on shop floors. So hopefully be ok.
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Post by big-all »

do you have an idea what laminate has been used ??
do you have any care instructions or a leaflet about the laminate ??
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