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 Post subject: "Veneer-ing" linings
PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 7:19 pm 
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Job where customer wants to veneer a couple of new
Linings and the rebated section on one old one.

Where's the best trade outlet to buy oak veneer for this purpose?
Is it better to use contact adhesive or buy a sticky back kind which I had seen after a google?
Any tips for doing it. Am I best to stick onto face first, let it go off, score the back and fold round the edge of the lining or try to cut strips beforehand and stick on individually the file back to edge?

Thanks in advance


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 Post subject: Re: "Veneer-ing" linings
PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2017 1:04 pm 
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Unless the door casings are almost brand new and they have planted on stop laths I, personally, wouldn't touch it especially if you have no prior experience of veneering. Veneer needs an absolutely flat substrate to bond to and the corners must be crisp and sharp to give the maximum amount of support to the veneer right up to the edge. Modern veneers tend to be only about 0.6mm thick or so and if unsupported they'll simply break away in next to no time. Similarly the veneer will be very fragile for such an environment. I think your client is being a cheapskate asking fir this to be done. Far better to replace the casing with one made in solid oak or get a good quality deco or polisher in to grain it. Sorry to be so negative but I think you are making a rod for your own back. And BTW the best adhesives are still hide glue or heat set film - both obtained from veneer suppliers such as Capital Crispen, etc

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 Post subject: Re: "Veneer-ing" linings
PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2017 1:15 pm 
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To be fair they are brand new, I put them in. And also planted on stops. Don't get me wrong I'd of much rather put oak ones in originally but clients never gave it a thought till now.

Any tips for how to do it? Score and fold or try to put on in 3 different pieces?


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 Post subject: Re: "Veneer-ing" linings
PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2017 1:29 pm 
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It's going to be a nightmare to do, and the corners on a door lining are going to be delicate to say the least.
Which is what J & K has already said.
Veneer anywhere where there are external corners really needs solid lipping to stand any chance of not chipping there. If I had to do it I'd certainly remove the planted stops and replace with oak.
But I wouldn't even try veneering it myself.
Replace the lot with oak if the client wants oak.


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 Post subject: Re: "Veneer-ing" linings
PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2017 2:25 pm 
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Probably the only option is to use real wood laminate, which is a laminate sheet but with a real wood veneer in the face instead of plastic and it can be glued on using contact adhesive in the same way as laminate. Its about 1mm thick.

If you do that though, you still have the edge which is somewhat vulnerable although normally a bit protected by the architrave just a few mm's away.

There wont me much if any cost saving from changing the linings though as real wood laminate is about £100 per sheet and devorative 0.6mm veneer isnt cheap either.

score and fold wont work with veneering it'll just crack along the grain

The labour cost to veneer is probably more than changing the linings, so the difference in cost is between a veneer / laminate and just over 5 metres of oak lining and door stop wont be that different, especially when you factor the veneering is likely to go belly up!


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 Post subject: Re: "Veneer-ing" linings
PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2017 4:27 pm 
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I have made my own thick veneers for a similar job I did a few years back. I cut the strips using my bandsaw, mitred the edges on my router table to get a crisp edge and put new solid stops on. For the wide face I did it in two parts as the throat on my bandsaw was too narrow to do it in one. To be fair it was only one door and it was a lot of fiddly work. It turned out okay but I would not want to do a number of doors, it is too long a job. Much easier to pull it out and put a new oak frame and trim in.

DWD


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