Hi, newbie here (apols).

I have removed a 2.3KW plug in single oven & am putting in a 4KW double oven.

The old one was wired from a cooker control unit (i.e. the one with the red 'rocker' switch & a 3 pin plug outlet on the wall above the work top) with 6mm cable out, running to a double socket under the work surface behind the cooker, where the old oven and the gas hob (ignition were both plugged in).

So the new one i understand needs to be hard wired.

Advice #1: was to simply swap the face plate of the double socket (under the work surface) to one with ano rocker switch and a 3 pin 13A outlet (like the one above the work surface higher up). Still fed by the same 6mm feed. Hard wire in the cooker & plug the hob ignition in & away.

Advice #2: was to wire the 6mm feed into a dedicated single cooker outlet and find and then take a feed for the gas hob from ano socket.

Obvsly, # 1 is easier but is it right? Advice #2 man says 4KW needs to be deidcated & not have anything else running off it as well - albeit the gas ignition is a small load and only used infrequently.

#2 means i almost certainly have to take a feed from above the work surface & so move (break?) tiles that i don't have replacements for...

Also, what size cable do i need for between the cooker & to the outlet, whichever it is (as above).

Help plse. ? thanks in advance....

If I understand your post correctly, then option 2 is the way to go.

(Assuming that the 6mm is supplied from your CU to the new cooker isolator)

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Verwood Handyman
I Know it says I'm On-line, but I might have just left myself logged in, whilst I'm out....

Hi verwood, thnx.

To (try &) clarify:

the "cooker isolator" (with the red rocker switch) currently supplies, with 6mm grey cable, the double socket.

Opt#2 means i remove the double and replace with a single outlet socket - your "CU".

Does that sound right?

In other words, don't take additional load off this circuit for the gas hob ignition?

Cable size to / from the oven?

The switch with the "Red Rocker" should have a dedicated feed from the CU AkA Consumer unit, AkA fuse box, in 6mm from what you have said.

You should not be taking a spur from there to a twin socket, a single (Built into the switch) is allowable.[quote="realstokebloke]

Opt#2 means i remove the double and replace with a single outlet socket - your "CU".

Does that sound right?

[/quote]

Errr..no it doesn't

And a 6mm sq cable will be sufficient for your new oven, gas ignition can be plugged in to the cooker socket.

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Verwood Handyman
I Know it says I'm On-line, but I might have just left myself logged in, whilst I'm out....

The quote button didn't work properly there?

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Verwood Handyman
I Know it says I'm On-line, but I might have just left myself logged in, whilst I'm out....

If it is option #2, (& clearly happy to take more able advice) but doesn't this illustration contradict this a little?

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/diy_electrics_cooker_circuits.htm

Unless i'm mistaken, doesn't it wire in a cooker AND a electric hob (which would be much higher rated than a comparatively small gas hob ignition)?

Lets go back to the beginning.. twin oven @ 4Kw and a gas hob yes?

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Verwood Handyman
I Know it says I'm On-line, but I might have just left myself logged in, whilst I'm out....

Yes.

To try & clarify:

I also assume the "CU" (get it now) supplies the Control Unit (one with the red rocker) with 6mm 'direct'.

Currently, the Control Unit (red rocker above worktop) then feeds a double socket with 6mm cable.

The old oven 2.4kw & the gas hob ignition both plug into that.

The new oven is 4.0kw, yes and the gas hob needs a 3 pin plug socket.

Opt #2 is to remove the double socket and replace with a cooker outlet ("connector unit") fed with the 6mm that comes from Control Unit (one with the red rocker).

And, take a different feed off ano socket elsewhere for a separate (single) 3 pin socket for the hob.

No..the CU is your incoming Fuse box C onsumer U nit..

As in the link you've given..from there you have a 6mm sq feed to the cooker control unit (The one with the red switch)

These are labeled on the back "Supply" and "load"..supply comes from the fuse box (CU) load connects to the ovens.

The single socket which ispart of the cooker control unit can be used to plug in the ignition side for your Gas hob..

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Verwood Handyman
I Know it says I'm On-line, but I might have just left myself logged in, whilst I'm out....

Right...I (think i'm getting the correct terminology now)

CU = fuse box

The cooker control unit (The one with the red switch) i am sure is supplied directly off the CU with 6mm. This is above the worktop.

Then out of that comes more 6mm cable & goes under the worktop (which is where i need to change the set up).

Currently, this supplies a 'normal' twin outlet socket.

So do i change it to:

opt 1:

another cooker control unit (The one with the red switch) with the "load" side feeding the oven & the socket side feeding the hob?

or Opt 2:

a single "cooker connector unit / plate" (blank with no switch) and find ano supply for the gas hob ignition (off ano socket - presumably on ano circuit).

You are allowed to take two feeds from the cooker outlet plate. One for the double oven and one for the hob ignition. However if the hob manufacturer requires a 3A fused spur supply then the feed from the CCU to the hob would need a fused spur somewhere between the CCU and the hob.

Cheers "OM" I think I get this:

use the 6mm feed from the cooker control unit (The one with the red switch above the worktop) to feed a cooker outlet plate (i assume that is your "CCU"?) below the worktop.

Then from that take x1 feed to the oven.

And ano to a single socket for the hob (checking whether the manuf needs a fused spur 3a before the socket).

Right?

And if that is right (?)...

what is the difference between that set up and putting ano Control Unit (one with the red rocker) that is combined with a single 3 pin socket under the work top instead plse?

No difference. I had actually misread your original post

Swapping the double socket at the back of the cooker for another cooker switch with a built in socket is IMHO a suitable way to proceed. Use the socket with a 3A fuse for the hob ignition.