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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 11:09 pm 
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Hi! Noob here. I repressurized my Worcester Greenstar boiler from just under 1 bar to 1.5 bar yesterday. I was then away overnight. When I returned home today, the pressure was up at over 2.5 bar. The heating was off throughout all this, however the boiler does very occasionally fire briefly to keep a ready supply of hot water. What could have caused the extra pressure increase? Thanks!

(I've repressurized once before, a few months back, nothing strange happened that time...)


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 11:15 pm 
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SITELATEFU wrote:
Hi! Noob here. I repressurized my Worcester Greenstar boiler from just under 1 bar to 1.5 bar yesterday. I was then away overnight. When I returned home today, the pressure was up at over 2.5 bar. The heating was off throughout all this, however the boiler does very occasionally fire briefly to keep a ready supply of hot water. What could have caused the extra pressure increase? Thanks!

(I've repressurized once before, a few months back, nothing strange happened that time...)

Did you close off the plastic nut on the filling loop properly AND remove the plastic key from the filling loop?

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 11:20 pm 
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heeelllooo and welcome SITELATEFU :welcome: :welcome: :welcome:
is it possible you have left it cracked open so its still pressurizing but over hours rather than quickly
is it making other funny noises like occasional relieve valve action to reduce the overcharge a bit :dunno:
ok chrrriss beat me to it :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 11:30 pm 
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chrrris wrote:
Did you close off the plastic nut on the filling loop properly AND remove the plastic key from the filling loop?


Thanks for the reply! Yes to the first (although careful not to overtighten), no to the second. So it's necessary to remove the key even when in the off position to prevent further filling? When I moved in, the key was in place but off so I assumed that's adequate... (famous last words I realize ;p )

big-all wrote:
is it making other funny noises like occasional relieve valve action to reduce the overcharge a bit :dunno:
ok chrrriss beat me to it :lol:


Cheers for the welcome big-all! Not heard the relief valve afaik, I think maybe the continued charging has been slow enough not to reach that point? it was still in the green when I got back today and I didnt see it increase for several hours after that...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 11:39 pm 
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SITELATEFU wrote:
Thanks for the reply! Yes to the first (although careful not to overtighten), no to the second. So it's necessary to remove the key even when in the off position to prevent further filling? When I moved in, the key was in place but off so I assumed that's adequate... (famous last words I realize ;p )

You shouldn't leave the key in place - no plumber would ever do that, precisely to avoid the probs you've had. If you remove the key, the pressure won't increase but you MIGHT end up with a puddle of water under the boiler. If that happens, it means the fill valve is letting by -- either because the nut isn't closed off properly or because the valve is knackered.

With the key removed, any excess water passing through the valve will come out of the hole where the key was rather than going into the CH system. That's a good thing as over-pressuring the system can cause problems. You might want to put a small bucket or similar underneath the fill valve while you get to the bottom of this.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 11:50 pm 
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chrrris wrote:
With the key removed, any excess water passing through the valve will come out of the hole where the key was rather than going into the CH system. That's a good thing as over-pressuring the system can cause problems. You might want to put a small bucket or similar underneath the fill valve while you get to the bottom of this.


Hmmph key seems stuck. It's lined up with the open padlock alright, but reasonable downward force won't move it. Obviously I don't want to force it. I guess that's why it was left in! Any suggestions?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 12:31 am 
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Does your filling loop key look something like this? :-
Attachment:
SmallWBKey.jpg
SmallWBKey.jpg [ 110.76 KiB | Viewed 332 times ]


If so, here is a video of me removing it - just turn it (in either direction) while pulling firmly down. If yours is different, it's possible that WB have changed the design. In which case, post a pic and perhaps one of the heating guys on here can help in more detail...

Anyway, hope this helps.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 5:24 am 
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Removing WB filling keys usually requires unreasonable force especially if they've been left in for a while :wink:

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For this message the author Razor has received gratitude : chrrris
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:45 am 
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Thanks chrrris and Razor.

chrrris wrote:
Does your filling loop key look something like this? :-


Yes, pic attached. I tried pulling as I turn it but it still won't come out.

Razor wrote:
Removing WB filling keys usually requires unreasonable force especially if they've been left in for a while :wink:


:lol: OK so I tried getting a little more unreasonable but it's still stuck. I'd rather leave it to a professional to go full unreasonable on it since they'll have a better idea of how far to push the envelope plus tools on hand if there's consequences.

By happy coincidence I have a service booked for quite soon anyhow, in the meantime is it safe for me to switch off the metal screw valve on the supply pipe *behind* the plastic nut on the filling loop intake (ie. the left hand metal valve in the photo)?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 7:09 pm 
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I would *guess* that the plastic nut just needs nipping up another 1/8th or 1/4 of a turn to stop the valve letting by, but obviously difficult to say for certain without being hands on. Maybe the valve's had it?

I believe there's no problem at all with isolating the cold mains feed to the boiler to stop the pressure creeping back up. Obviously, you'll have no hot water but at least you'll reduce the risk of the PRV opening if you do that. You can bleed some air water out of the rads to drop the pressure back to a sensible level.

Note: I'm a plumber, but not a heating engineer. So if the heating engineers on here contradict anything I've said about this, it probably means they're right and I'm wrong!

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