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PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 11:57 am 
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Hi guys.

I'm planning on turning my small 8x8ft shed into a carpentry workshop. At the moment there is a problem with damp seeping in, particularly through the roof. I've been looking around for solutions and I've came across the idea to use tanking slurry to seal the walls and the ceiling. Is this a good solution to the problem?

Once the tanking was complete I was then planning on insulating the walls and ceiling and installing some plywood over the top in the hope that this would help towards keeping condensation off the tools. Obviously if I were to use tanking slurry for the walls I would not then want to drill into the walls/ceiling in order to add studs so what would the best way to do it? Would something like no more nails work in securing studs to the walls? Once the ply is in place I will be looking to add shelving etc to the walls so it needs to be sturdy.

I've added some pictures of the wall, ceiling and floor for help if needed.

Any ideas on how to go about it?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 8:51 pm 
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I made a workshop in a barn which has 100mm concrete blocks between H section steel uprights. Water used to pool on the floor after heavy rain as the concrete blocks became saturated. I vertical battened the outside of the walls and nailed on 150mm feather edged boards. This allowed the block work to dry out and it has remained so. The roof was no problem for me, a very high cement fibre roof and I built a lower plywood ceiling.

In your situation it may be better to put corrugated roofing over the concrete roof. It strikes me it is better to keep the existing shed dry from the outside rather than the other way round.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 9:18 pm 
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How many tools are we talking about? If you don't have many then a simple heated toolbox is the perfect way to keep tools rust free.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 9:22 pm 
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A lot of tools. Table saw, band saw, mitre saw various router and drill bits as well as squares etc.

Hmmm. The thought of featherboarding the exterior sounds like it could be a good idea.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 11:55 pm 
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What about air flow? are there any vents to let air in and out?

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 9:12 am 
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Yes there is what I would consider a good amount of air flow so I think ventilation is sorted.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 12:29 pm 
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my thoughts in general
you will need an outside bench to work on sheet material
also part off your bench would need to overlap the door opening by about 8"
so when you are using a chopsaw you place the chopsaw close to the door feed the timber in through the door giving you around 66-72" before you hit the wall

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 12:50 pm 
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I've got a couple of Toughbuilt C650 sawhorses which I can use to break sheet material down.

I'm planning my workshop to have two walls with worktops and the other two without. The sides with worktops will have spaces to house my Dewalt table saw mounted to their mobile base that I can wheel out when needed. My mitre saw will be mounted to the worktop but when I have to use it to break down longer lengths of wood I also have a dewalt mitre saw stand so that I can have it more central to the door so material can pass through.

I just need to solve this damp problem before I get to fitting new worktops and storage solutions.


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