DIY Forum

 

Ultimate HandymanUltimate Handyman on Pinterest

 

DIY Forum/Home improvement advice forum

 

 

A-Z CONTENTS | DISCLAIMER | DIY VIDEO | HOME | SAFETY FIRST | FORUM RULES

It is currently Sun Apr 21, 2019 7:22 pm


Time zone: Europe/London [ DST ]




 

 


Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 9:59 am 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Thu Mar 21, 2019 2:09 pm
Posts: 3
Has thanked: 1 times
Been thanked: 1 times
Hello and a good day to all that know anything about prepping, painting and staining line furniture, I need your advice.

My Mrs wants to get a line chestnof drswrrs and spruce one up for our I coming first child’s bedroom.
She wants to get one that can be painted and have the top stained in a finish that suits whatever paint she wants. So...few questions...

A. If it isn’t painted at all I take it I will need to apply knitting to the knots?
B. If the drawers sides etc are already painted, how much taking back with the sander will I need to do? (I know this is slightly hard to know witbout knowing what type of paint is already there)
C. If so what sort of grades of paper will I be needing to use.
D. Would it still need priming and/or undercoating if it has a already been painted?.
E. Are there any paints/ stains or brands/ranges which are good for this type of thing or maybe not importantly any that I should definitely avoid! Lol

Sorry for the essay but I like doing this right if possible and it’s the only thing I will b able to sort of do myself or personally contribute myself to the new arrivals room so would like to do a half decent job at least

Thank you for any advice that is given.
Paul


Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on DiggShare on Delicious
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 11:56 am 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:33 pm
Posts: 4146
Location: Dundee, Scotland.
Has thanked: 788 times
Been thanked: 887 times
:welcomeuhm: Chauncey.

Can you please explain the following
Quote:
She wants to get one that can be painted and have the top stained in a finish that suits whatever paint she wants. So...few questions...


Staining/varnishing/oiling is applying a transparent liquid (stain or varnish or oil) usually on bare wood.
Painting is applying a non-transparent coating of paint (I am being too clever for my own good ::b ).

a. if it is painted it should have had knotting solution applied, but you can apply your own though to be safe.
b&c. 180 grade and sand just enough to remove the sheen a little.
d. the safe option would be to use an adhesion promoting primer as a first coat (e.g. zinsser bulls eye 123) as a first coat and then follow with the system of your choice.
e. plenty of good stuff, but no point in suggesting anything when it is not clear what you want to do (not that I have used that many different paints).

The above comments are valid if you buy a "painted" chest of drawers. The comments do not apply if you buy a stained or varnished set. Also the comments do not apply if you want to stain, varnish or oil your chest of drawers.

I hope it is all a bit clearer :?


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 3:48 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Thu Mar 21, 2019 2:09 pm
Posts: 3
Has thanked: 1 times
Been thanked: 1 times
OchAye wrote:
:welcomeuhm: Chauncey.

Can you please explain the following
Quote:
She wants to get one that can be painted and have the top stained in a finish that suits whatever paint she wants. So...few questions...


Staining/varnishing/oiling is applying a transparent liquid (stain or varnish or oil) usually on bare wood.
Painting is applying a non-transparent coating of paint (I am being too clever for my own good ::b ).

a. if it is painted it should have had knotting solution applied, but you can apply your own though to be safe.
b&c. 180 grade and sand just enough to remove the sheen a little.
d. the safe option would be to use an adhesion promoting primer as a first coat (e.g. zinsser bulls eye 123) as a first coat and then follow with the system of your choice.
e. plenty of good stuff, but no point in suggesting anything when it is not clear what you want to do (not that I have used that many different paints).

The above comments are valid if you buy a "painted" chest of drawers. The comments do not apply if you buy a stained or varnished set. Also the comments do not apply if you want to stain, varnish or oil your chest of drawers.

I hope it is all a bit clearer :?



Thank you for your help.
Sorry
I meant she wants the drawers of the chest painted and possibly the sides but the top varnished/stained. When I typed the original message it made sense, but probably down to I knew what I meant, in my own head!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 6:03 pm 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:33 pm
Posts: 4146
Location: Dundee, Scotland.
Has thanked: 788 times
Been thanked: 887 times
Chauncey wrote:
I meant she wants the drawers of the chest painted and possibly the sides but the top varnished/stained. When I typed the original message it made sense, but probably down to I knew what I meant, in my own head!
BTW. Any sanding you do you must go with the grain (along the grain). I feel better now that I wrote this :roll:

If you want to varnish or stain the top (and possibly the frame) then do not buy one that is painted on the top. You would have to strip the paint and you may never achieve what you want, in fact if it is veneered it will be destroyed. Start with a varnished unit or a bare, unfinished, unit if there is such a thing.

If varnished:
a. No knotting solution (the varnish does that for you anyway).
b&c. 240 grade paper.
d. Zinsser Bin x2 coats is your primer to block stains from any colour in the varnish and to allow the paint to stick, applied in the surfaces you want to paint.
e. as before ... too vague a question.


====================
If you can find an unfinished unit:

a. knotting solution for the surfaces you want to paint.
b&c. 180 sandpaper, 300ish in between coats sandpaper for gentle sanding in between coats, tack cloths are very hand at this (and all stages really)
d. wood primer or primer undercoat matching the top coat paint you want to use (oll based or water based) which you apply only on the surfaces to be painted
e. as above.


====================
If you get an oiled or oiled and waxed unit, you really have to remove both, esp. the wax. You need chemicals and elbow grease (electric sander is not of any use). Forget it, get a hobby or something. So far it looks like it would be easier to change the wife for an easier to use model, one with fewer programmes :mrgreen: Maybe get her an eyePad and see if she can find what she likes and just buy that.

Sorry, this is the best I can do, too many unknowns :scratch:
PS. Don't tell her she could have a unit with all the surfaces painted in different colours, lovely for a child's room, psychedelic stuff, and you will be kept busy for a couple of years :toothy7:


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 6:48 pm 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Fri Jun 09, 2017 12:55 pm
Posts: 337
Has thanked: 32 times
Been thanked: 26 times
I have purchased a couple of solid oak side tables over 5 years ago, both were lacquered which is a very thin coat. Most if not all solid wood furniture are lacquered because is cheap for volume produce. They were both looking a bit tired recently. All I did 120g light sand and 4 thin coats of varnish and now looks better than when was new.
If you are buying wood furniture and you want to re do the finish, make sure is solid wood, no veneer. Then you can do anything with it and experiment, working with wood is time consuming but enjoyable.

I have just stained garden edging made of 10 years old sleepers with Cuprinol decking stain and the finish now is beautiful.
I prefer to work with Cuprinol and Sadolin wood finishes.



For this message the author yartin has received gratitude : Chauncey
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 7:19 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Thu Mar 21, 2019 2:09 pm
Posts: 3
Has thanked: 1 times
Been thanked: 1 times
OchAye wrote:
Chauncey wrote:
I meant she wants the drawers of the chest painted and possibly the sides but the top varnished/stained. When I typed the original message it made sense, but probably down to I knew what I meant, in my own head!
BTW. Any sanding you do you must go with the grain (along the grain). I feel better now that I wrote this :roll:

If you want to varnish or stain the top (and possibly the frame) then do not buy one that is painted on the top. You would have to strip the paint and you may never achieve what you want, in fact if it is veneered it will be destroyed. Start with a varnished unit or a bare, unfinished, unit if there is such a thing.

If varnished:
a. No knotting solution (the varnish does that for you anyway).
b&c. 240 grade paper.
d. Zinsser Bin x2 coats is your primer to block stains from any colour in the varnish and to allow the paint to stick, applied in the surfaces you want to paint.
e. as before ... too vague a question.


====================
If you can find an unfinished unit:

a. knotting solution for the surfaces you want to paint.
b&c. 180 sandpaper, 300ish in between coats sandpaper for gentle sanding in between coats, tack cloths are very hand at this (and all stages really)
d. wood primer or primer undercoat matching the top coat paint you want to use (oll based or water based) which you apply only on the surfaces to be painted
e. as above.


====================
If you get an oiled or oiled and waxed unit, you really have to remove both, esp. the wax. You need chemicals and elbow grease (electric sander is not of any use). Forget it, get a hobby or something. So far it looks like it would be easier to change the wife for an easier to use model, one with fewer programmes :mrgreen: Maybe get her an eyePad and see if she can find what she likes and just buy that.

Sorry, this is the best I can do, too many unknowns :scratch:
PS. Don't tell her she could have a unit with all the surfaces painted in different colours, lovely for a child's room, psychedelic stuff, and you will be kept busy for a couple of years :toothy7:



Thanks for that, you must be read the situation well as I’ve agreed to paint the drawers different colours to each other so every drawer will be different! I know I have made a rod for my own back and will regret it!
Well she’s sourced one today and it’s all plain line, however I’m unsure if it’s been varnished before as I’m not very good with telling stuff like that. I would hiss it has at a push as the wood has a slightly darker colour to it. So it looks like from what you ve said I have my work cut out!



For this message the author Chauncey has received gratitude : OchAye
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:12 pm 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:33 pm
Posts: 4146
Location: Dundee, Scotland.
Has thanked: 788 times
Been thanked: 887 times
Chauncey wrote:
Thanks for that, you must be read the situation well as I’ve agreed to paint the drawers different colours to each other so every drawer will be different! I know I have made a rod for my own back and will regret it!
Well she’s sourced one today and it’s all plain line, however I’m unsure if it’s been varnished before as I’m not very good with telling stuff like that. I would hiss it has at a push as the wood has a slightly darker colour to it. So it looks like from what you ve said I have my work cut out!
Post some photos when you have it and/or post a link to the thing if it is on-line. Some of the woody people may be able to help you.

Don't despair completely, there are paints that may do more than one thing (e.g. prime and "paint", and some particularly those for furniture have got the necessary stickability built in). I have given you the top end approach as I know it, you can always take short cuts afterwards.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 

 

 




Similar topics
   

Time zone: Europe/London [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Visit Solent plastics


 

 

 

News News Site map Site map SitemapIndex SitemapIndex RSS Feed RSS Feed Channel list Channel list
ultimatehandyman privacy policy

Contact

 

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group

phpBB SEO