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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 2:25 pm 
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Hi folks,

Hopefully someone can help with this. The leak is coming from the bottom where the white/grey pipes meet (See pic)

Could you please advise what needs replaced without moving the toilet? Or even what the correct setup should be?

Would the below from Screwfix work?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-wc-f21r-flexible-wc-pan-connector-white-110mm/8145p#product_additional_details_container

Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 3:01 pm 
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There are loads of types see https://www.marleyplumbinganddrainage.c ... onnectors/ In this instance the connector into the grey pipe is letting past the baffles that are like ribs on the connector that form the seals. They can go after a time and weep slightly. This is a mix of two fittings with another short pan connector used to reach the pan spigot.

If you search through the link you will find the matching pieces. The grey pipe stays. you might have to undo the floor fittings of the pan if you do not have enough wiggle room. Nothing is easy

Good luck

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 4:21 pm 
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The 90degree pan connector is pushed into an elbow socket. They're designed to be pushed directly into the pipe. That's almost certainly why it's leaking (the socket it, as you'd expect, larger diameter than the pipe).

The other potential issue is that there is a straight pan connector on the pan (or is it an offset? I can't tell from the pic), pushed into a second pan connector. Again, this isn't how those fittings are designed to be used and pan connector pushed into a second pan connector will often leak too.

As DWD said, you're almost certainly going to have to remove the pan to sort it out properly. It's difficult to say exactly what I'd do to it, as your close-up doesn't show the actual pipework leading up to the loo. The easiest thing to try, which is something of a bodge if I'm honest, would be to remove the pan connectors and push a short length of 110mm pipe into the socket of the elbow, then reassemble.

To sort it out properly. I'd be inclined to remove everything back to that push-fit elbow, and re-run the pipework from there such that you can use a single 90 degree pan connector straight into the cut end of the 110mm. That way, if that is an offset pan connector on the back of the pan, you will no longer need it as you can angle the elbow up to the correct height.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 5:11 pm 
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Hi guys,

Thanks for replies, will need to have a think about this. Was hoping pan wouldn't need removed as one of the smaller pipes is sealed. The adaptor is also sealed :wtf:

Re the pic, took a few more, having to crop each time so I can upload.

Apologies on my lack of part knowledge. I was hoping I could remove all but the grey pipe and install some sort of flexible connector, but just not sure I have the room for it. Reason I asked about the part from Screwfix was because of the hose clip.

Cheers


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 7:03 pm 
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Blimey - that really hasn't been done very well at all! To make it look 100%, you'd need to alter the pipework which would involve mucking around with that wall and whatever's behind it. As you're after a quick, functional fix I would remove both the pan connecters, push a length of pipe into the socket on that swept bend (about 3" or 4" inches long, just so it protrudes slightly from the socket. Then you can push a pan connector into that. You could use a flexible pan connector for simplicity - just make sure it doesn't sag because you-know-what will collect in any sagging bits. To be fair, it'll be such a tight bend on the pan connector that it shouldn't sag.

I can't really see how you can remove those pan connectors without lifting the pan. But it shouldn't be too a big deal, I would cut all that silicone off and use a new flush pipe connector (and maybe a new flush pipe if the reason for the silicone is that it's leaking due to the flush pipe being cut too short). It shouldn't be too big a job really - don't be too daunted by the idea of removing the pan. A sharp knife and maybe a scraper to remove the silicone, and a screwdriver too remove the two (or sometimes four) screws that hold it to the floor are all you'll need. You can lube the new connectors with a bit of washing-up liquid when fitting.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 7:49 pm 
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I know, bad install all around, you'd think by looking at it we have tried to fix it over the years, but it's been like that from the start, installed by some cowboy ::b

Re the removal of those connectors, I was thinking about the lack of wiggle room. If I really wanted to avoid it, I could try cutting one of them, could get messy though :scratch:

Thanks for the input guys, appreciate it.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 8:16 pm 
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To reiterate for the sake of clarity, the male end of the white part is designed to go into a 110mm soil pipe, as said above, and not the female grey socket. To resolve this a short piece (80/100mm) length of soil pipe is required to be inserted into the grey socket in order to reduce its diameter. Any colour 110 pipe will do, I've thrown loads of offcuts away over the years, have a look in some building site skips.

We then need to go from this 110 socket to the pan, doing away with the creamy coloured part - as said, this is a pan connector joined into a pan connector, and a bit of an abortion.

You can get, from S/Fix or any builders' or plumbers' merchant, a (corrugated) flexible pan connector that will do this, and being flexible, you should not need to remove the pan. Corrugated means the length can ge adjusted.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 10:20 pm 
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arco_iris wrote:
To reiterate for the sake of clarity, the male end of the white part is designed to go into a 110mm soil pipe, as said above, and not the female grey socket. To resolve this a short piece (80/100mm) length of soil pipe is required to be inserted into the grey socket in order to reduce its diameter. Any colour 110 pipe will do, I've thrown loads of offcuts away over the years, have a look in some building site skips.

We then need to go from this 110 socket to the pan, doing away with the creamy coloured part - as said, this is a pan connector joined into a pan connector, and a bit of an abortion.

You can get, from S/Fix or any builders' or plumbers' merchant, a (corrugated) flexible pan connector that will do this, and being flexible, you should not need to remove the pan. Corrugated means the length can ge adjusted.


Ahhh ok I see, I think there might be a bit of 110mm already there (theres a rough cut bit at the top, in one of my pics) but would need to double check when it's taken apart. Maybe it moved, causing the leak.

Thank you mate


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2018 7:58 am 
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A simple bodge would be to smear silicon around the joint and wrap up tight with good quality gaffer tape, its a bodge but it will stop the drips, it looks like you are not on a low flush cistern, perhaps may be better in the long run to replace the whole lot and get the pipework done correctly, it depends on your circumstances and budget. :dunno: Nos



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2018 5:49 pm 
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Nos wrote:
A simple bodge would be to smear silicon around the joint


Nah, Plumbers Mait (non setting putty) may work though.

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