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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 11:15 am 
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I have an immersion heater for hot water. It is fed though a switch not a timer etc. Can the switch be removed & a socket fitted using the same wiring? Thanks...


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 11:34 am 
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Yes.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 10:59 am 
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I thought immersion heaters are on 30Amps wiring so the answer would be No.



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 3:21 pm 
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Interesting, possibly 30 amp at the use box. I have done the swop & fitted a 13 amp plug to the immersion cable it so we shall see. However thanks for the thought.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 6:41 pm 
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OchAye wrote:
I thought immersion heaters are on 30Amps wiring so the answer would be No.



Depends how it was done. Most often its a 20A fuse or mcb, but it will be wired in 2.5mm cable (or bigger) and he will be changing it to a socket which will have a plug plugged in and in this plug at most is a 13A fuse.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 8:04 am 
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someone-else wrote:
OchAye wrote:
I thought immersion heaters are on 30Amps wiring so the answer would be No.



Depends how it was done. Most often its a 20A fuse or mcb, but it will be wired in 2.5mm cable (or bigger) and he will be changing it to a socket which will have a plug plugged in and in this plug at most is a 13A fuse.


Seems OK at the moment it's working..haven't blown a fuse yet touch wood.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 8:20 am 
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Just watch for the plug getting warm(er).


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 6:38 pm 
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OchAye wrote:
Just watch for the plug getting warm(er).



Why would it do that?

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 4:49 am 
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someone-else wrote:
OchAye wrote:
Just watch for the plug getting warm(er).



Why would it do that?


It's OK I have checked it out, thank you again.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 5:36 am 
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someone-else wrote:
OchAye wrote:
Just watch for the plug getting warm(er).



Why would it do that?


I was wondering why OchAye was thinking the plug would get warm(er)

There is no reason, changing from a switch to a socket would make the socket or anything plugged into it get warm.

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As a point of (dull but true) fact, if you have a "30 amp circuit" and you connect say a 5watt lamp to this 30A circuit, it doesn't mean that 30Amps are going to rush through said lamp.
What happens is, the lamp will only draw / pull (call it what you will) what ever current it requires. (roughly 0.2 Amps in this case) so the plug will never get warm.
The remaining current (Amps) does not sit there waiting to be used, it never existed in the first place, the reason it is called a "30Amp circuit" is because it is protected by a 30A mcb (Ok in reality it would be a 32A mcb) and if you need / want it you can use upto 30Amps as the cable and mcb are rated to be able to safely carry 30A

Just out of more dull fact, we don't call circuits by their current rating, we generally call them by what they are for, i.e. lighting circuit, socket circuit, shower circuit etc, but "everyone knows" how much current each of these can supply. (Or a close approximation)

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 5:59 am 
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Interesting from a layman's point of view but fully understandable & comforting...


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 8:29 am 
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Just a point on this and I am an electrical dunce. When I was fitting under kitchen cabinet lights I chased out to connect to a cooker socket. The electrician I asked to make the connection said he would not do it as the lighting circuit would have 30v coming down and the risk was too high to someone changing a tube in the lights. I don't know if I remember that clearly I but relayed the new lighting wiring to a different lower voltage socket as a feed. We still use the cooker point which has an integrated socket as an ordinary power socket even though it is 30amp with no issues. I think I am saying that using your 'new' power socket is okay but bare in mind it that if you fit a lamp say be mindful.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 5:49 pm 
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someone-else wrote:
OchAye wrote:
Just watch for the plug getting warm(er).



Why would it do that?



Because the fuse in the plug dissipates heat. A bog standard immersion set up is a radial with a 15A fuse or 16A MCB and a 20A DP switch.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 5:26 pm 
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Back to why it would do that.

I am on economy 7 with a fixed timer like the one on photos in this thread which I missed as I could have helped the guy with his timer.

There is/was a microswitch inside which fed directly the immersion heater. I had to replace it once or twice as it got screwed up (technical term that) and eventually I had to replace the whole unit. I can't remember the reason for the latter ... perhaps it was all a bit carbonised (charcoaled more likely). At some point I had enough of it, and set the timer switch to operate a relay and now the relay feeds the immersion heater. In my non-electrical understanding, the contacts of the microswitch were not fat enough to feed the heater.

So back to the plug. Converting from a fixed supply to a plug, it means the plug will be moved in and out etc. so its contact with the socket can only get worse. If the contact area is small that is when the plug would get hot, no?

Looking back at it, the contacts of a socket and plug are much fatter than the microswitch inside the timer ... but after 3 fixes in my case I will have belt and braces, and a satisfying clonk when the relay operates.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 5:32 pm 
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les1 wrote:
Interesting, possibly 30 amp at the use box. I have done the swop & fitted a 13 amp plug to the immersion cable it so we shall see. However thanks for the thought.


There is a very good reason that it was wired via a switch (20 Amp) rather than a 13 Amp plug.

Immersion heating elements are normally 3 Kw (3000 Watts) Now at 230 Volts (Nominal supply) that equates to 3000 divide 230 = 13.04 Amps, so not an issue, however that nominal voltage could be + 10% or - 6% at - 6% you are looking at 216 V, 3000 divide 216 = 13.87 Amps which means that the fuse will give out over time/repeated use.

Personally I'd have left it as it was originally installed or put in a dedicated immersion heater time switch (about £70 last time I checked)

I'm sure only me will put me right if I'm wrong

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Last edited by wine~o on Thu Oct 11, 2018 6:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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