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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 7:51 pm 
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Howdy - first post and need some advice. Baxi 630

We had a new boiler fitted but at the time my programmer was bust so the gas fitter couldnt test using the controls. Ive now installed tado which all works fine but the boiler doenst fire up for heat. I am no expert but was comfotable enough to test the connections at the programmer for being live when calling for heat I then tested the switch live in the boiler and a signal is being received (all done using a screwdriver tester). The lights all lit up which to me means the boiler is receiving signal to switch on. This is the wiring - not done by me but a spark - into the boiler from the fuse spur. Switch live is black.

Is this correct? FWIW the boiler is about 2 weeks old. When the gas guy fitted it he tested by plugging directly into a socket. Reason i ask is doesnt a switch live need a neutral to come back to complete the circuit? Sorry if i sound stoopid - just want to check before forking out....


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 8:17 pm 
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Just to add - hw works fine when called by taps. No error codes etc. Also the manual shows the below wiring examples - thing that throws me is points 8 and 9 under the diagrams - does this match my wiring?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 8:33 pm 
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How come you’re sparky is using outdated flex?

Any good sparky would use cable that conforms to current electrical regs

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 9:01 pm 
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:withstupid:
That’s not a pro sparky that’s wired that.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 9:10 pm 
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yes i know its outdated. We bought a house which needs ton of work. I have a builder in who has a team of certified subs - to be honest i dont know which one of his guys did this bit. The flex was a straight swap

Is this right tho?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 10:23 pm 
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I would suggest you put your screwdriver in Image

as those screwdrivers are known to be useless.

You really need a multimeter and learn how to use one.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 12:43 am 
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The switched live should go to terminal 1. (Top Terminal)

My guess is that the black wire is the switch live from the programmer/stat.

Remove the black wire and check that it goes live when programmer/stat calls for heat.

If it does connect it to terminal 1.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 7:26 am 
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PLB wrote:
The switched live should go to terminal 1. (Top Terminal)

My guess is that the black wire is the switch live from the programmer/stat.

Remove the black wire and check that it goes live when programmer/stat calls for heat.

If it does connect it to terminal 1.


Thanks PLB. This is really the only thing I haven’t changed but I’ve had my suspicions The black wire passes straight through to the NO contact in the stat. There is a brown wire that goes from the programmer to the COM point in the stat which is live when heating is switched on. Tado switched on/off wirelessly. Does this additional info help? I note the black wire is connected via choc bloc in the fuse spur so doesn’t pass through any terminals. What would happen if I switched the black from 2 to 1 incorrectly.?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 11:57 am 
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I am not familiar with the Tado as I have a nest 3 but from what you describe moving the black wire from 2 to 1 should work.

As said by the other guys using a neon tester is not ideal but in this case does it light up when touching the removed black wire when the programmer/stat calls for heat and goes out when not calling for heat.

You need to prove that it is indeed a switched live and not a perminant live before connecting to terminal 1.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 8:34 pm 
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Ok the move of the black wire to choc 1 in the boiler appears to have sorted it. I hope im not speaking too soon but thanks for all your help folks! :huray:


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