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 Post subject: Lining paper questions
PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 7:12 pm 
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Hello.
I'm decorating my sons bedroom this week while everyone else is on holiday and being a1930's house the plaster has become a bit rough over the years.Had some structural work last year and one wall moved a bit and was patched up plasterwise, the ceiling has previously been painted and is a bit flakey and its just generally been repaired before.I know the best option is to get it replastered, however down to time and the fact that a lot of woodwork would need to be replaced its not going to happen.I've given the ceiling a quick sand to remove the loose flakes and I'm partway through filling and sanding the walls before lining papering everything.
Now my question is how good is 1200(already bought) at covering flakes, etc? How far do I have to go is prepairing everything?


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2018 9:45 pm 
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1200 is good...better than 1000 but not as good as 1400..

Lining isnt a replacement for preparation, the walls still have to be pretty good, what is does do it equalise the porosity of the wall, provide suction, and provide the same surface to paint over..

The thicker lining gets the more of a texture is will have, not really important under paper, but if you were applying anything with a sheen the surface will develop a slightly bumpy look

If i thought this was going to be an issue I would rather double line with 800 grade as opposed to using a 1400 or 1700 grade

Hope that helps

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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2018 10:14 pm 
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Thanks for the reply.I have used lining paper before but can't remember what it was covering, in fact I previously did this room.The ceiling is not loose flakey but there is no way I can feather out each and every flake spot.My thoughts are if I'm unhappy with the finish I can do a second coat of lining.With the walls I've spent two days so far filling and sanding, sanding is with a 3 inch by 16 inch long sanding block(for car work) and 3m 80 grit paper so hopefully should get things reasonably flat.Lining paper is red label from toolstation, the instructions say one side hides roller/brush marks the other smoother so I'll use the coarser side.
Lots of wall area is hidden by cupboards, beds, etc if areas looks iffy I'll use some strategically placed posters.


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