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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 1:45 pm 
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After flushing, my toilet keeps filling, spilling out into the toilet overflow pipe.

I've tried adjusting the plastic screw on the float arm, turning it counter-clockwise to push it out further. This does not help: while it may slow down the fill rate, the toilet continues to overflow, even after the float ball is underwater.

Thus, the float ball seems not to be doing its job.

Is there anything else I can adjust (e.g. the white plastic screw on the right side that controls the distance to the toilet bowl wall) or do I need a new flushing mechanism?

If I need a new flushing mechanism, what's gone wrong here? (I want to avoid a situation in which I install a new mechanism, but have the same problem.)

Thanks,

Colin


Attachments:
File comment: white plastic adjustment screw (far right of photo) controls distance to toilet bowl wall
IMG_20180506_074117.jpg
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File comment: blue float ball underwater, with white plastic adjustment screw (centre right of photo) extended; toilet still overflows
IMG_20180506_073546.jpg
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File comment: water flowing out toilet overflow pipe on left side of photo
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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 2:56 pm 
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It most likely is the diaphragm in the fill valve or the ball has a hole in it.

Turn the water off to the toilet and see if the ball has water in it, to replace the diaphragm remove the pin holding the float arm on and unscrew the blue bit by the screw you adjusted, the diaphragm is inside just clean it up inside and fit a new one.

I would buy a new valve so you have it if you need to replace the whole thing or you can take it apart to see how it works before you do your faulty one.

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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 3:21 pm 
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Thanks @adonis.

I don't know where the isolating valves for the toilet are hidden: can I just run the fill into the bathtub as a plan B while I check the ball and diaphragm?

I think that there was a brick in the cistern when I moved in, which I removed. That wouldn't make a difference to the calibration?


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 4:13 pm 
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The brick is there to save water, pointless in my opinion, don't attempt to dismantle it without turning the water off as it could go horribly wrong.



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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 5:15 pm 
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adonis wrote:
The brick is there to save water, pointless in my opinion, don't attempt to dismantle it without turning the water off as it could go horribly wrong.

Even experienced plumbers can get in deep trouble trying to do it live, do not try it! :wink:
First find out if your toilet is off the mains or tank then turn the supply off at the mains or tank down feed before dismantling if you can get a similar unit like the one shown with luck you can just change the top bit. If you decide to change the diaphragm check you fit it the right way round there is a tiny groove on one side that fits over a lip inside the valve look carefully at the old one as you remove it. :thumbright:



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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 5:38 pm 
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I've just tried pushing the plastic rod that the float arm's adjustment screw pushes: no matter how hard I push it, there's still a trickle.

Thus, the problem's not the float ball: something inside the valve seems broken.

So, I think that the solution is to:

1. turn off the water to the toilet. As I don't have access to the isolating valve, is a pipe freezing kit safe to use? (I've never used one before.)

2. replace the bottom entry valve unit.

If I can freeze the inflow pipe, how easy would it be to add an isolating valve at the same time?

Thanks,

Colin


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 6:22 pm 
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Just turn the water off. Either stopcock in your house or the external one. Messing around with freeze kit waste of time.



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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 6:50 pm 
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its not worth messing with a torbeck float valve is £8-12

https://www.screwfix.com/p/torbeck-bott ... alve/8120t <<<< expensive

imho the fluidmaster 400uk is a much better option and a lot quieter

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster- ... /47792#_=p <<<<< brass shank



https://www.wickes.co.uk/Fluidmaster-Bo ... e/p/420072 <<<<< Plastic shank

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Fluidmaster-Br ... e/p/118747 <<<<<< Brass shank

don't forget some fibre washers for the tap con



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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 9:47 am 
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Thanks @Bob225. The brass shank Fluidmaster looks good.

On freeze kits, I don't have access to the stopcock inside my flat & turning off access to the whole house would be difficult due to some of the people in the house. Are freeze kits useless, or is this the sort of situation in which they might work?


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 10:11 am 
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Freeze kits work pretty well on cold water not so on central heating pipes (too many additives and debris) best way is freeze then fit isolation valve (5 minute job) before working on the ball valve.


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 10:45 am 
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Much as I like to see people do their own repairs, without a stop valve or isolator available it might be better to get someone in to do it as by the time he has paid out for the freezing kit and maybe a pipe cutter, a decent plumber seeing the job could be a safer option.

Not trying to knock your confidence or saying you wouldn't be able to do it Colin, but sometimes it is less hassle to get someone in to do it.



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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 6:52 pm 
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Just do it late at night, by the time anyone notices, you've fitted an isolator and it's back on for everyone.

Or just go for it- even if the freeze kit fails if you've got everything ready at hand you can whack an isolator on live- just have plenty of towels and buckets ready!


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