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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 11:38 am 
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I plan to install the handrail (angled) on the bottom of my staircase this weekend. I intend to use the following:

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/zipbolt-half-mitre-hand-rail-connector-qt11-550-780448

I've been told not to use these as the link at the joint gives way over time. I've been told I'm best just using 250mm screws through the newell post and plugging the holes. I'm wary of doing this in case I get the angle wrong and the screw comes out of the handrail.

What's the best method?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 2:33 pm 
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Good quality glue,a tight join and a small 40mm screw that’s countersunk in at the angle that the filler piece covers.(bottom of handrail only)
Top joint same method but it’s impossible to get a screw in and hold well so I use my paslode to nail through the top of handrail into post and once the glue sets it’s a strong joint.
If it’s all getting painted then yes you can screw through the newel post into the handrail and plug/fill the hole.
I’ve never used any other method(exept a stub mortise and tenon joint) so cant say if the brackets or bolts are any good.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 3:49 pm 
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Stevie so do you cut a M&T joint? How do you do this if the handrail is cut at an angle?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 4:36 pm 
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Argyll wrote:
Stevie so do you cut a M&T joint? How do you do this if the handrail is cut at an angle?

It’s many moons ago I’ve cut a stub mortise and tenon in a handrail and newel!!
It used to be done for joint strength but it’s never done nowadays as there are much easier alternatives. Was all marked out and cut by hand. It’s not always possible either as the newel post has to have a bit give in it to pop the tenon into the mortise.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:12 pm 
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Ah I see, I misunderstood you.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:14 pm 
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Sorry but one more question.

I understand the spacing between the spindles shouldn't allow a 100m spherical object to fit through. Is there a standard size I should cut the fillets to take this into account?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 12:48 pm 
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length off run say 2.4m spindle size say 32mm try dividing by say 18 so 17 spindles =542mm from 2400=
1859 divided by 18= 103mm so you need a minimum 18 spindles and 19 spaces
remember you need to measure level to get the correct spacing
or if you measure at say 43% its about 40% greater spacing and spindle width

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 3:42 pm 
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You’re looking to get as close to 100mm as possible without going over.
Here’s a link which shows a nice way of working out spacings if you’ve never done it before.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sourc ... n5kDYHabKI

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 28, 2018 4:21 pm 
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i personally would aim for 95mm or less to give you wiggle room iff you go for say 98 and the last few need to be say spaced out 3mm extra to fill the gap your technically nackerd
you also need to take in to account any turnings narrowing the spindles coverage as well as any bows along there lengths

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2018 8:31 pm 
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steviejoiner74 wrote:
You’re looking to get as close to 100mm as possible without going over.
Here’s a link which shows a nice way of working out spacings if you’ve never done it before.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sourc ... n5kDYHabKI


Stevie,

In step two of the link you sent me, is he saying measure from the inside edge of the top newel post to inside edge of the newell post at the bottom of the landing?

I think he means cut all the spindles and cram them all up against each other and them measure from the bottom of the last spindle to the inside edge of the newell post at he bottom of the landing.

The reason I ask is the photo isn't great and I can't see any spindles in the photo in step two.


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