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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 7:35 am 
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I've been doing a fair bit of lining rooms for emulsion just now and I thought I'd share some thoughts and observations. So much seems to be getting said of non-woven liners such as Wall Doctor, Wallrock et al, that I feel the humble pulp liner is getting overlooked, and I wondered why that was.

I'm a bit puzzled these paste the wall products are getting so much attention, when they are essentially overkill, both in specification and price, on so many jobs. If there are damaged walls, or particularly bumpy surfaces to even out, then yes, go with a non-woven. They are problem-solving products designed for specific situations, not as a direct replacement for pulp liner. Yes, they are easy to install, but when did pulp liner become a tricky wallcovering to hang? :scratch: There have been some dreadful excuses for lining paper over the years I admit, but most trade pulp liners are solid products, with few issues.

I'd be interested to know what others think and use, and why.

A couple of photos of a recently lined room for the more visually inclined among you. Paper is unpainted in these photos. :thumbright:


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 7:48 am 
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That’s tidy work mate :salute:
I’m no deccy,so my input here is of a novice. When I bought the wall doctor from advice given on here I did so only to make it easier for myself as I’m under no illusion it’s too difficult for me to achieve a better result(like in your pictures)with pulp lining paper as I just don’t have enough experience or knowledge.I’m actually hanging walldoctor paper today so I shall post some pictures of my attempts at hanging this and share my experience from a novice point of view.

Btw wallrock 1500 is 4 quid a roll in b and poo just now,apparently that’s a good deal?

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 8:58 am 
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I use Wall Doctor because I find it easier and faster than traditional paper, especially on long drops like a stairwell. No soaking times, it can be hung straight from the roll, no stretching, tearing, or shrinking, no need for a pasting table, less mess, and easier to work around corners and into window reveals. I haven’t used traditional lining paper for several years now. At £9 per roll, it may be more expensive than traditional lining paper, but that doesn’t make a huge difference to the overall price of a job. For example, this week I lined and painted a bedroom. The total price for the job was £599. I used 6 rolls of Wall Doctor. If I had used traditional lining paper at £4.50 a roll, the total price would have been £27 less, so £572. I believe the extra £27 resulted in a better finish. The customer emailed me when they got home and said the walls look like they have been plastered and have asked me to quote for doing the same work in the three other bedrooms. They had considered having the walls of the first bedroom replastered but that would have added around £200 to the overall cost as the plasterer quoted just short of £400.



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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 6:51 pm 
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I've used to the fibre liner on a really old ceiling. It was great and still looks great years later.

I wouldn't use it for every job though and I agree that it's overkill. Not only that, but it's not something I would teach an apprentice to use, because it requires a lower skill set than pulp.

I've found that the dustless kit has taken away the need to go with the thicker liners and that a nice quality 1000 grade MAV or Graham & Brown liner will produce a superb base to paint onto.

Price wise. I buy my lining paper by the carton at Bonanza's, so the fibre liner can be 4x as much per metre at my prices.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 5:46 pm 
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I forget the make, but one of the best surface for emulsion I've ever seen was on a 600-grade pulp liner. It was cross-lined with 1200 then vertical hung with the 600. Lovely stuff it was.

Far better than all that 'straight from the roll' malarky. A quick soak, nice and pliable, easy to cut. :huray:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 6:21 pm 
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I’ve done my lining papering and was going to ask how big a gap at the join needs filling and what will cover with paint? I tried my best not to but them too tight and get peaking and the walls were a bit all over the place and 4-5 of the joins have about a half to a millimetre gap.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 9:20 pm 
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steviejoiner74 wrote:
I’ve done my lining papering and was going to ask how big a gap at the join needs filling and what will cover with paint? I tried my best not to but them too tight and get peaking and the walls were a bit all over the place and 4-5 of the joins have about a half to a millimetre gap.


I got home from work one day many years ago and the wife announced quite proudly that she'd cross-lined all the walls in our dining room. Every join was lapped about a quarter inch. :roll:


A gap is better than a lap! :-) ........... but still needs filling.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 6:08 am 
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Quote:
Far better than all that 'straight from the roll' malarky. A quick soak, nice and pliable, easy to cut.


I've never found paste the wall lining paper not pliable or not easy to cut... :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 10:53 am 
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steviejoiner74 wrote:
I’ve done my lining papering and was going to ask how big a gap at the join needs filling and what will cover with paint? I tried my best not to but them too tight and get peaking and the walls were a bit all over the place and 4-5 of the joins have about a half to a millimetre gap.


Stevie, your question is in danger of getting lost.

I am not into wallpapering anything but here are a couple of things. If you can see the seam now you will see it when the paint is on. If your paper is absorbent if you fill the seams plus the subsequent coats of paint the edges may puff up, so perhaps the seam should be sealed first with something non-water based. And the catch is, anything you fill may end up with a smoother surface than the raw lining paper.

Ignrore all I wrote, but if you don't get answers from those who knowbe may start a new thread.



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 11:21 am 
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Here's what I do with any seams that are showing...

Step 1. Paint the walls as normal with first coat of emulsion. This "seals" the surface of the paper and will protect it from what will happen in step 3.

Step 2. When the emulsion is fully dry (after at least 4 hours), fill the gaps with filler. Try not to put it on too thick, but make sure you put enough on to fill the gap.

Step 3. When the filler if fully dry (the next day), rub it down... gently. It will take longer than normal rubbing down but you'll end up with a better surface. Don't put too much pressure on the sandpaper as you just want to remove the excess filler and not change the texture of the painted lining paper. I find it easier to use a fine grade sanding block because I find I use too much pressure as with sandpaper and a cork block as I am trying to stop the sandpaper coming loose, if that makes sense.

Step 4. Paint the second coat as normal.

I first used the above method when I use normal lining paper in my own lounge and I ended up with gaps in every join. After the second coat of emulsion, even when looking at the wall sideways on towards a light source, there was no difference in the surface texture where I had filled and rubbed down the gaps. The key is to not rub it too hard :shock:



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 12:48 pm 
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steviejoiner74 wrote:
I’ve done my lining papering and was going to ask how big a gap at the join needs filling and what will cover with paint? I tried my best not to but them too tight and get peaking and the walls were a bit all over the place and 4-5 of the joins have about a half to a millimetre gap.
Always best to get a first coat on the lining paper, just like new plaster. That way it will show up any seams that need attention and also seal it.

I use fine surface filler and find that ideal for the odd joint that may show.

You'll probably find that you will have to sand all the walls as well as the filling because the first coat furs up the lining paper - that's quite normal and will only need a light sand.

You should then be able to spot prime the filled seams and then apply a full second coat to the the whole room.





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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 5:19 pm 
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:withstupid:

Toupret blue lid fine surface filler is a good un. :thumbright:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 6:43 pm 
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Thankyou guys :salute:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 8:17 pm 
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Bought a carton of 1000 grade doubles today from Jonnos. £3.30 per double roll including the Vat.

Cheap as chips!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:46 am 
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That's a good price there. :thumbright:

Lined another bedroom for emulsion the other day in MAV Professional 1000 using Beeline Black RM. Those two products are simply made for each other. I'll pop a couple of photos up later.

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