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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 9:34 pm 
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The fridge section has stopped cooling but the freezer section continues to freeze although it seems to be a deeper freeze.
This model has individual temperature controls for fridge and freezer, and as the freezer is still working although the freezer seems colder
than before I am thinking is the fridge stat. faulty, I have tried it set to max but without any improvement the freezer control remains set as always at three quarters.
Advice please.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 10:12 pm 
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have you tried a defrost ??
how old is it ??
when was it last defrosted ??

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 10:15 pm 
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big-all wrote:
have you tried a defrost ??
how old is it ??
when was it last defrosted ??


Its around 10yrs old, the freezer is auto defrost, and the fridge section has never been turned off.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 10:21 pm 
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the first port off call is a manual defrost
is it one motor/compressor or two
if its american style it may be different :dunno:

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 10:27 pm 
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big-all wrote:
the first port off call is a manual defrost
is it one motor/compressor or two
if its american style it may be different :dunno:


I think it is one.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 11:04 pm 
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My hotpoint did some odd things, flashing lights in fridge for example, we had a maintenance contract so I would try a manual defrost, then if no better call out the repair guy.

In the main the manual defrost cured it, but we had a range of components fitted, including the PCB and temperature senders. However on the last time I did not de-frost, the guy arrived, opened fridge door, looked at small ice build up, and said insulation has failed, uneconomic to repair. It seems my defrosting the unit has resulted in this being missed, likely the fault had been there for years.

It was still working but clearly not reliable, so new fridge freezer bought, inverter drive. The old one went to the garage and is still used to brew beer with, I thought I could use freezer to start beer off, but the fridge would cool so would only be able to use one compartment at a time, once started height of fridge makes it easier to syphon off beer. However when set up, I found the fridge does not cool at all when using an exterior thermostat (STC-1000) to control freezer, it would seem freezer gets priority, this is good for me as I can have two brews running so 40 pints every 10 days.

Without the contract it would not have been worth calling anyone out, minimum charge around £60 so it is either DIY or new. However the way the PCB controls the unit, I think it would have been new fridge freezer as without their software in the computer they plugged in to tell them what was wrong, it would be near impossible to know if a sensor has failed or the board or the insulation.

I tried using an energy meter, and looking at what it should have used in a year to what it was using yes it was using double what it should, so you could use an energy meter to find out if insulation has failed, but that does not help repair it.

It would seem ice conducts heat better than the insulation, so if the insulation is damaged then ice builds up in the damaged insulation making get poorer and poorer, but once that ice melts it takes time to reform again, since not keeping beer at 20 degs, there is no ice problem so it works well as a brew fridge. I have used it in an emergency and for a week to keep Christmas turkey it's OK, but not for general use.

Of course your fault may be completely different, but still think it's time to start looking at new ones.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:50 am 
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As said , sounds like the auto defrost is faulty, freezer then clogs the vents to the fridge preventing air flow to cool the fridge.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 7:21 am 
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I have now disconnected the unit and am defrosting it, how long should I give it please.
If all goes well and the unit goes back to normal is the auto defrost going to cause the problem again do you think,if so how do I try and repair it.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 8:19 am 
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You should leave it until all the ice has melted. (Or at least until it falls off) NEVER physically help the ice as you may puncture the cooling "pipes" But you can put a bowl of hot water or two inside and leave the doors open.

Although there isn't much to most fridges, when they fail they are often beyond economical repair, and if it is a PCB problem its doubtful you can get said PCB (And you have to know which one for your F.F.)

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:23 pm 
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I use a standard fan, no heat just a fan, it speeds up defrost. However the problem with a frost free is the ice forms behind a cover, so however long it takes to seem to defrost, double it.

I will explain frost free then you will realise why it will take so long. The active parts the evaporator is behind a cover normally at the back of the freezer and a fan circulates the air so whole freezer is at the same temperature. Over time moisture in the air builds up on the evaporator, so at regular intervals the fan is turned off, and the main freezer motor is turned off and a heater switches on to melt the ice, the water runs down pipes and onto a tray on the freezer motor, since the fan is not running the heater does not heat the main compartment of the freezer only the small area behind the shield, after set time the heater switches off and the freezer restarts, and the heat of the freezer motor evaporates the water removed.

So what you need to do is check that tray, once any ice which has blocked the drains has melted then you will find water in the tray, until there is water in the tray the defrost is not complete. Switching on early can mean defrost is not complete, the big problem is when the fan is jammed with ice, not only does the fan over heat, but the air will not circulate so the freezer may be warmer than it should be, specially near the top.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 7:14 pm 
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man100 wrote:
I have now disconnected the unit and am defrosting it, how long should I give it please.
If all goes well and the unit goes back to normal is the auto defrost going to cause the problem again do you think,if so how do I try and repair it.


Based on my experience once you have fully defrosted the freezer the ice build up starts again once the appliance is switched back on. Depending on how your particular fridge/freezer works then you could find the same problem in 3 weeks or 3 months.

I tried to get a repair to one of mine (replacement pcb plus labour cost almost as much as a new fridge)... failed again within 6 months.

Best to just replace.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 8:32 am 
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wine~o wrote:
man100 wrote:
I have now disconnected the unit and am defrosting it, how long should I give it please.
If all goes well and the unit goes back to normal is the auto defrost going to cause the problem again do you think,if so how do I try and repair it.


Based on my experience once you have fully defrosted the freezer the ice build up starts again once the appliance is switched back on. Depending on how your particular fridge/freezer works then you could find the same problem in 3 weeks or 3 months.

I tried to get a repair to one of mine (replacement pcb plus labour cost almost as much as a new fridge)... failed again within 6 months.

Best to just replace.

I found two reasons why after a defrost ice builds up quickly again.
1) A fault, in my case in the insulation, caused ice build up in the fridge.
2) Not fully defrosted, once the void behind the back panel of the freezer becomes full of ice, then it takes a lot of melting, the freezer compartment may seem clean, but that does not mean the void behind the panel is also clear of ice, once the drain is blocked with ice then ice will build up quickly, the defrost heater will melt the ice, but then all it does is freeze again as water can't run away. One has to monitor the tray on top of the motor, until you find water in that tray then it has not fully defrosted.

With my freezer the Hotpoint man put some copper wire down the drain hole to help melt the ice on defrost cycle, in hind sight I think the insulation was damaged from day one, now first thing I do is put the energy meter on the freezer plug and work out what the annual consumption will be, and record it, then I know what to expect latter, if the consumption is much higher than the label says it should be, this point to an fault.


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