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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 2:13 pm 
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Good Afternoon.

I am new to the forum, so hello everyone.

Just need some advice regarding a wooden frame door length window which serve to block an old doorway in my house. I want to replace it with something solid, so I can attached coat hooks and a shoe rack. I'd appreciate some pointers on the following questions:

Firstly, what tool would you suggest would be best to remove said window? I'm thinking a few drill holes to created a big enough hole, then use a small reciprocating saw.

Secondly, what solid material would be best to replace it, something the same thickness and maintaining the door frame? I'm leaning towards double thickness Chipboard.

Thirdly, what method would be good to fix the new material in place? I'm thinking 'No more Nails' on edge and small nails/ tacs to hold in place.

Advice warmly welcomed.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 2:15 pm 
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Better asked in carpentry. I'll move it.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 2:26 pm 
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Hi Eddie14' :welcomeuhm:

Any chance of a photo please . . .



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 2:29 pm 
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Photographs would help.
From what you're describing though, "No More Nails" type adhesives and nails/ tacks are unlikely to be enough to fix a board into the hole left after removing the window.

Too slow!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 5:43 pm 
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Stabbing in the dark without pictures but here goes. If it's constructed as I think it is then it's possibly been screwed into place with fixings in the glass rebate so removing any putty or beading may very well expose said fixings. I would also challenge whether removal is even necessary and simply boarding over with something like 18mm mdf might be a far simpler option.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 8:30 am 
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If it really does have to come out then renove the glaing bead or putty first, then remove the glass. This makes the operation safer and makes it less likely that you will break the glass (although with puttied-in glazing there is a fair chance of doing that anyway!). Once the glass is out, clean-out the renbte - for putty you'll need a hacking knife (that is a real tool, BTW) and a hammer, newer glazing woll probably have silicone or a sealing tape in the glazing rebate which can be removed with an old chisel and a Stanley knife You should then be able to see the screws that Grendel refers to - generally only in the sides of the frame. If the screws won't budge then it may be necessary to do this b y sawing the frame taking car not to hit the masonry on the outside (where the frame possibly also sits in a rebate in the wall). A hand saw is often sufficient for this

"The person who never made a mistake, never made anything" - Albert Einstein

"I too will something make, And joy in the making" - Robert Bridges, 1844~1930

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