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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:41 pm 
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The existing (FAILED) setup is a 240 volt sealed mains 2A transformer supplying 12 volts rated 300 watts through 12 metres of SWA 4 core (cores paired) to an underwater 300 watt 12 volt PAR56 halogen lamp in an indoor swimmig pool 12 years old. The niche is watertight but the bulb has blown - it is blackened and rattles. However a multimeter indicates (a) nil volts at transformer output (b) continuity across the 12v tranwformer output when powered off. From this I deduce that the transformer went u/s when the bulb blew - or vice versa. The reset button is rigid and does nothing, replacement parts of the same make (Certikin) are mega-money.

A modern replacement PAR56 LED equivalent lamp is 36 watt but presumably needs a constant current LED driver. A CC driver is available IP56 rated (though it doesn't need to be, as located in the plant room - albeit a corrosive atmosphere) at 60W with 2 x 2core output leads.

Will this do the job......

240v to 12v CCDriver- twin outputs. Each output connected to a pair of SWA cores. At the niche, thr pairs of cores connected to the LED lamp (existing was a chocblock in a W/P enclosure, I would use 3way Wagos in the same enclosure).

The 2004 documents for the original setup say not to illuminate the lamp out of water - this will no longer apply? I suppose my query is aimed at, when a light fitting or lampshade says ' Max 60w ' this does not apply to LED or cfl?

Thanks, Paul


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 10:26 pm 
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It is usually because of the heat generated by a lamp that a light fitting is given a "max lamp rating"

Although underwater lights are meant to be able to be changed, be careful opening it as you will still need to close it again.
Also you may have a w/p box make sure it is rated at IP68 and also check to what depth it is IP68 to.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 10:42 pm 
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Are you measuring on the AC range setting? With continuity on the secondary you should get a voltage there too - it being AC not DC.

The trip will be on the primary side too so if it has 'tripped' then you'd have to reset it anyway to get anything on the secondary.

Either way, if you're planing to fit an LED (a reasonable solution) then the solution you quoted will work perfectly presuming careful attendance to the potential corrosive properties in the plant room - fully watertight enclosure (i.e. airtight aka IP67 would do, IP68 is a step too far) would be ideal.

No issues with the wattage either - it applies regardless of type of lamp as this is always defined as the heat dissipation in WATTS but a 100W LED produces a LOT more light than 100W of any other kind (filament, halogen etc) and I doubt you'll be wanting a 300W LED in there!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 6:03 pm 
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kellys_eye wrote:
Are you measuring on the AC range setting? With continuity on the secondary you should get a voltage there too - it being AC not DC.


Never occurred to me that 12 volts would be anything other than DC, I was a motor engineer in a previous life!

Transformer working fine, new LED lamp fitted, everything hunky-dory, thanks for your help.

Paul


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