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 Post subject: Another shed thread....
PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 8:36 pm 
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Need a new shed to take my powder-coating stuff and some storage so i can reclaim some space in my main workshop.

The biggest i can squeeze in is 8' x 8' - have found a few in fencing/shed shops and seem to be around £800+, all have 15mm boarding and what seems pretty weak 45 x 34mm framing.

Now, is it best to go store-bought or DIY??

My main concern with store option is the door height is only 6' and i'm 6' 1-1/2" plus the pent roof goes from 1.8m to 1.95m which at the lower (back) side is pretty much touching my head.

Maybe better to build using 45 x 70mm and thicker cladding??

Main concern with DIY is it takes a whole lot longer and getting decent, straight timber is not to easy. I have built one before but it was smaller.

Heres where i want to plant it...
Image

Yes I know it will block the up-n-over :) But I also want to remove that, behind the shed will be cladded and to the left I want a single 5'-6" wide door. This garage is in a useless position (for a garage)as the biggest car you can get in is an MG Midget or a smart car! The access is at 45deg to the house as we are in a corner between two other houses in a cul-de-sac. The guy who installed it had an MG and he pushed it in and out!

The base will be a small job - luckily its all concrete but i have to build up one end to level out the ramp, about 50mm IIRC. I want it so its removable should we move house. Not sure of the best way to do this yet.

The Up-n-over door can be stored down the side of the garage where the weeds are currently residing.

Front of the shed will be about 3' from the front of the main house line, hopefully thats ok for a shed, will ask our neighbour of course.

Can't join it into the main garage as an annexe as it falls foul of planning then and would need permission due to floor area, AFIK a temporary structure like a shed is ok as long as floor area is below 15sqm.

Would probably go with 2x4 all round, 18mm OSB roof and floor, roof felted and sloped to rear, the gravel strip is around 15" so should be clear of next door house wall.

Any thoughts?

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:00 pm 
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You have answered your own question.
An "off the shelf" shed is too small for you, build your own as it will be better, exactly what you want and cost less.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 11:38 pm 
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in general building your own shed will cost you about 25-40% more than buying ready made
but the shed you make will be better quality stronger and last far longer as it will tend to be over engineered rather than "just enough"
if you have the skills and tools your time is free and you can wait several weeks the i always say make your own as i did :huray:
the best thing i ever done its 12 years on now and still subtilly evolving
http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bigall2 ... ort=3&o=15
:huray: :huray: :thumbright:

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 1:10 pm 
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I find a sketch always helps me think, heres the first go...

Timber is all 45x70, cladding is 25x150 (20x137 fitted) rebated shiplap.

Floor, view from above, front at bottom edge...
Image

Front, view from outside...
Image

Left side, view from inside...
Image

Right side, view from inside...
Image

Back, view from inside...
Image

Corner joint detail, say front right-hand corner....
Image

So, looking at my corner joint, I can already see i need to double-up on the uprights for the front and back panels to make cladding the interior easier.

Now, if i built it like this, what is a decent method of attaching the roof supports ?
Also, any other pointers??

:)

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 2:19 pm 
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Preliminary costing shows the total to be £583 plus roof covering, nail, screws, 4x1 for door bracing and extras.

Probably come in at around the same price as the £850 off the shelf job but will be a damn sight stronger i think.

Just remembered, on the last one i built, I left the top plates off the front and back frames, this allowed me to fit the roof supports level with the frame top by fixing into the side of the verticals and adding extra support noggins under the joints. It work quite well and as far as i know it still standing some 15 years later :)

Whether thats a good way or not i don't know, but it seemed to work ok.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 2:59 pm 
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If your building your own, which i also think you should. You will also have the option then to look out for a proper door and windows that may be being scrapped somewhere. Then you can make frame to suit.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 3:15 pm 
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Windows i'm not bothered about - they just take up space and you cant put racks or shelving there :)

This shed is going to be mainly used for a powder-coating setup so daylight not needed and will only get intermittent usage, the rest of the space is storage overflow from my main workshop.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 5:21 pm 
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You'll want to add some diagonal bracing to the framework for stability.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 6:35 pm 
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wine~o wrote:
You'll want to add some diagonal bracing to the framework for stability.


Really? I was intending to line the inside fully with 12mm chipboard panels, surely that would be stable enough?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 6:42 pm 
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davek0974 wrote:
wine~o wrote:
You'll want to add some diagonal bracing to the framework for stability.


Really? I was intending to line the inside fully with 12mm chipboard panels, surely that would be stable enough?


I'm no expert when it comes to shed building.. but without the diagonals I could see the frame moving out of square without braces.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 7:45 pm 
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wine~o wrote:
davek0974 wrote:
wine~o wrote:
You'll want to add some diagonal bracing to the framework for stability.


Really? I was intending to line the inside fully with 12mm chipboard panels, surely that would be stable enough?


I'm no expert when it comes to shed building.. but without the diagonals I could see the frame moving out of square without braces.


Hmm, I'm still not convinced that a frame covered completely on both sides will move but i'll make a note.

Fixings - just been through the tool store (mess under the bench :) ) and found my power toys - I thought i'd sold them on but woo-hoo :)

I have two air nail-guns - a 25-50mm that takes full-head wired reels and a 50 - 90mm that takes clipped-head angled strips. Also got an electric 15- 35mm brad-nailer but thats not much use here i feel.

Still need to find some nails but i think these are still standard sizes.

Yes, i know its a lot of nail guns but once upon a time we had a much bigger garden that needed fencing replaced and the previously mentioned new shed building, I did the 150' fence in feather-edge and it looked sweet. I always made a point of buying a new tool when i started a new project - this has served me well in later years as i now have tons of power tools - you can never have too many right?

Got the chop-saw still so i think the tool side of things is covered nicely :)

While i'm planning the build and waiting for the weather to lift a little, I have site clearance to do and the up-n-over to pull out and refit.

So, further questions...

I gather 45x70 is adequate for supporting a roof made of 18mm osb over a 2.4m span?
What is a good finish treatment for this sort of build?
Roof covering - whats good here?
Roof overhang - realised my drawings are for a 2.4m square build - this gives nothing for a rear run-off overhang, whats a good way forward here? Bring the depth forwards 40-50mm or add something to create an overhang? Guttering shouldn't be needed as there is a 15" gravel strip along the rear gap.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 1:48 pm 
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First job will be the up-n-over removal.

This is the first sketch of my plan, its a pretty big door!

View from outside looking in...
Image

Treated 45x70 with the same cladding as the shed.

Doors will be bolted from inside with no external access method, three 400mm strap hinges fitted with carriage bolts.

Method I think will be to fit header and footer, add the end framing, then the studs, double up on the top of the doorway for strength and clad it, then build / fit doors to suit.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 8:53 pm 
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This stuff seems to be the mutts nuts for the shed roof, very tidy looking...

http://www.permaroofstore.co.uk/product/390/enter-your-own-size-complete-firestone-epdm-1-14mm-rubber-flat-roof-kit

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 9:17 pm 
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i went the tradition heavy roof felt route with base coat mid coat and 2 top coats torched on and 10 years on as good as new cost me around same as the link you show with my then neighbour applying it

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 9:24 pm 
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Yeah, proper felting is good stuff, i would have to get a roofer in though, that would likely bump the cost a fair bit :(

I used heavy felt on the last one but as it was done in the cold, in summer it wrinkled, to be expected but annoying still.

With a span of 2.4m would 45x75 supports be enough or do i go to 45x100mm the covering will be 18mm OSB3

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