just picked up some solid oak flooring, b+q £24 per sqm, need to finish off with some nice skirt, archi etc...
mdf veneer etc coming in at silly money compared to sodtwood from magnet...
anyone know of any good deals to finish this job off or suggest a finish for some redwood/pine skirt that'll do ok for prefinished laquered oak?

_________________
http://www.peterborough-plasterer.co.uk/

If it were me, mate, I wouldn't bother with going for finished softwood. Doesn't look too good with oak flooring, grain patterns and finish colour of stain, varnish etc. I would just go with MDF and paint white.

With what you save, money wise, hang some oak doors. have done that look a few times and seems to go well. Also means that any timber furniture will fit into the room/s and not look out of place.

nice one mate, just given the walls a coat of paint and Im thinking the same thing... white ceiling, cove, buttermilk walls and white archi etc... stained pine is just going to look a bit wrong... got 6 doors in it though, might have to go with the wood effect hardboard panel doors glossed white unless i can find some veneered oak doors cheap enough...
any tips on this flooring ro? only done this stuff once before, glued it down, looked good though and no problems...
would you glue the joints with waterproof pva or not bother?

_________________
http://www.peterborough-plasterer.co.uk/

I wouldn't glue the joints as it is a solid floor. Just stick it down as you have done before.

White doors will go with the flooring, no problem.

sound

next problem...
you know when youve got to rip a hollow door down and replant the strip in it cos youve took over an inch off...

whats the best way to get the hardboard off the timber or is there a standard par size to put back in?

doors are: 2@32.5"x80", 2@28.5"x80", 1@20.5"x80", 1 standard

going to have to plant 2" on the bottom...

_________________
http://www.peterborough-plasterer.co.uk/

I use a sharp chisel. You will find once you have it started it peels off quite easily. No, there is not any standard PAR size available, it is 1 &1/16th" thick from memory. There is a niche product to make my fortune

DWD

As dewalt says, just use a nice sharp chisel to get it off and clean up the glue residue. Then re-use the batten.

every time ive done this i have used a power plane to get most of it off and then perhaps a hand plane for the very last of it.

and glued it back in and used a paslode finish nailer with some 20mm nails

cheers lads thats what i usually do, its just as mentioned I usually have to run the plane over it and its always a pain slicing it off with a chisel, always wondered if there was an easy way though, like running a steam iron down the edge to melt the glue... might give it a shot..
also wondered whether to use ordinary pva wood glue or something else

_________________
http://www.peterborough-plasterer.co.uk/

I normally use PVA and clamp it up. If it is a wood grain effect door, then I don't use pins as you can normally see exactly where they are, even after filling...................Although that might just be me, because I obviously know where they are lol.

im with ROC clamp and glue only,

if you have loads of doors to do its worth getting some 1"x11/2 slate lath and cut/plane to width beforehand then you can just slot them in

result... got the doors from howdens, 20 quid a pop for the odd sizes... 726x2040 40mil, 526x2040...
13 quid for the 2'6..
happy days

_________________
http://www.peterborough-plasterer.co.uk/