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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 10:39 am 
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Hi, first time user in need of a few answers.

I need to order some 3 x 2 timber to make up some stud walls for a new bathroom and need an idea on how much I will need incl for noggins

stud walls will be approx 2.5m high by 2.8m long with a door in it and another wall 1.7m long. plus another small wall with door through approx 1.2 long by 2.5 high. Is timber supplied in standard lengths?

I'll need 2 door casings to fit 726 size doors I believe so waht do i need to ask for here?

any further advice on plasterboard type and sizes it comes in would be helpful too.

plus i believe i will need a polythylene sheet of some sort to use as a vapour barrier on the external wall which is timber frame.

Thanks E.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 11:35 am 
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If you use a good timber yard they will machine/supply timber to any length you want

Timber normally comes in 0.3m division (equates to an old foot) so 2.1m, 2.4, 2.7, 3.0, 3.3, etc

I would get 25 lenghts of 3x2 at 3m for what you need. This allows for a sole plate top and bottom and timbers at 400mm centres, If the height is 2.5 the offcut of the studs will create a 350mm noggin

you will need a 115mm door casing for a stud wall ask for one to fit your door size

and plasterboard you will want 12mm thick and it comes in different sizes

2400 x 1200 mm
1800 x 900 mm
1200 x 900 mm

choose which ever created least wastage


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 11:52 am 
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It depends where you buy it, some places only stock 8 foot lenghts, some stock 10 foot and some 12 foot.

Some of the diy stores stock 2.4m lenghts, so if your measurements are accurate you can use the 2.4m lenghts because whn you put the stud between the sole and head plate it will add up to just over 2.5m

Space the studs at 400mm centres- http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/partition_wall.htm

From my calculations you will need
-
2.5 * 2.8 metre's 8 lenghts for studs, 3 lenghts for the sole and head's and one length for the noggins= 12 lenghts of 2.4 metre long timber.

2.5 *1.7 metre's 5 lenghts for studs, 2 for sole and head and one for the noggins= 8 lenghts

2.5 * 1.2 metres 4 lenghts for studs, 1 for head and sole, noggin above door can be cut from an offcut. 5 lenghts


so I work it out at 25 lenghts of 2.4m timber

as for the wall that is on an external wall, can you not use the direct bond method- http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/PLAST ... T_BOND.htm

I can't see why you need a polythene sheet, I have never heard of that before.

As for the door frames, ask for frames that wil accommodate the dors that you are fiting, it will still probably need cutting to size, alternatively you can use some flat 1" thick timber the same thickness of the wall and then nail some 2" *1" timber onto it as a stop.

Larger sheets of plasterboard work out cheaper but can be hard to use on your own, 2400 sheets are available, so in your case it may be best if you use two sole plates, one on top of the other then leave a 100mm gap at the bottom and cover this with skirting board

edit: added the stud quantity up wrong :oops: correct now


Last edited by honeymonster on Thu Sep 07, 2006 11:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 11:53 am 
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Thanks,

Any idea about this polythylene sheet to the xternal wall i've been told i'll need?

E.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 12:41 pm 
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Is the external wall really damp?

If not I don't see why you would need it. and if the wall is really damp then it is best to fix the problem rather then mask it.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 1:50 pm 
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no its not damp. The style of house is a cornish unit with the upper floor, where I'm putting the bathroom, made up of timber frame covered internally by foil backed plasterbd and beyond the timber frame is open space to the roof tiles and sarking felt.

I've had to strip out the foil backed plasterbd where the bathroom is being created. This now needs replacing with moisture resistant pla.bd. which doesn't come with a foil backing to act as a vapour barrier which is why its been suggested a may need this polythylene sheet i presume to stop moisture getting to the timber frame.

so my question is:

is there a need for this vapour barrier or should the moisture resistant pla.bd. suffice in preventing moisture reaching the timber frame?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 8:58 pm 
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I wouldn't worry about it, the plasterboard will be fine if it is moisture resistant, you could of course use treated timber if you are concerned.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:45 pm 
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You will only need a vapour barrier (foil-backed plasterboard or polythene) if you have insulation behind your plasterboard on the external wall.

Regarding the studwork, I would get 2.4m lengths at 400 centers vertically.

To work out how many get the length of the stud wall and divide it by 0.4 to get the number of uprights. Add an extra 2.4 length for each opening or change in direction plus one for the end!

Then add the length of the stud wall x 3 divided by 2.4m for the head, middle noggin and sole plates. Add this to the upright total and you have the number of 2.4 m lengths you need.

The best stud timber is called CLS and is more regular in size and avilanle from Travis Perkins or Jewsons branches.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 11:02 pm 
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You'll probably also need some insultion in your stud walls to meet the sound regs. I find it's always best not to hear what people are doing on the bog!

The idea of the vapour barrier is to stop moist air from getting into the walls structure. If it can get in it will pass from the warm side of the wall towards the outside Surface (cold). At some point between the inside and outside you will get a point know as the Dew point. This is where the moist warm air condensates. The result is wet insulation and eventually rot. It's know as intersticial condensation! If you have got a vapour barrier of any type i'd make sure it stays. It's been put there for a reason! :-)


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