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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 11:15 am 
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Hi, just plastered my bathroom. All dry now!

The parts where I am going to tile, do they need priming or preparing? For instance, do they need to be rubbed down, scratched, etc?

Also, if you can't use PVA as a primer, why is it that on the back of Wickes' and Unibond's tile adhesive does it say to use PVA to prime the area?

If I was going to use PVA, should it be the waterproof one or the normal one?

I'm sure this is going to cause a row...

Many thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 1:25 pm 
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Hi Andrew
Read the sticky about PVA at the top of the tiling forum :thumbright:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 1:44 pm 
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I have, that's why I know about it. It says on it to refer to the manufacturer's instructions, but they say use PVA.

So what's up with that?

:scratch:


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 2:43 pm 
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If your happy with the manufacturers instructions then go with them

I'm not saying there right or wrong, PVA is known as a general purpose sealer

But l never use it the same as a lot of professional tilers dont

My own personal reason for not using it is if pva becomes live again when
moisture is introduced that turns on a red light for me

Good luck with your decision

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 3:22 pm 
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So what would you use if you were using a Unibond or Wickes tile adhesive?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 5:48 pm 
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If it is in a kitchen use normal PVA as it won't get wet like it will in a bathroom.

If it is in a shower area, then use waterproof PVA.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 6:39 pm 
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Don't do much ceramic tiling or use the ready mixed products you mention

Fixing mostly natural stones and use powder adhesive from tile merchants

Primers used are Bal-prime APD, Ardex 51, Howtex Universal Primer depending
on the adhesive and surface to be tiled

So if your asking me what primer to use with the products you mention l would
use one of the the above as personally l would'nt like to use PVA

Most adhesive manufacturers recomend to leave new plaster for 4 weeks before tiling

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:11 pm 
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Get to Topps tiles and get Acrylic primer :thumbright:

And Don't use adhesive/grout all in one kind of shite.

Have a word in topps :thumbright:


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:41 pm 
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The last time I went into Topps, i went expecting really big savings but only to find they were more expensive than the same tiles at B&Q!

Still, I will pop in there and ask. They were helpful to say the least and so I might get the adhesive and primer from them (and the tiles from B&Q!).

Many thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 10:17 am 
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I went into Topps Tiles and the man there said I didn't need a primer on fresh plaster, just a big ol' tub of BAL Grip.

Then he said all grout is porous and so I'll be needing to paint it with a grout sealer.

Did I have mug on my forehead or was he right?

By the way, I didn't buy anything.

However, ScrewFix have some sort of acrylic primer "for dusty walls" or something. Will this do to seal new plaster?

God, why is everything so complicated?! I think it's all designed to put DIYer's off, you know...it's a conspiracy! :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:59 am 
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I used a Bal primer on new plaster board to seal the board and stop it drawing the adhesive to fast.

His comment 'all group is porous' is a little general, swimming pool grout?

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darrenc wrote:
I dont think its a stupid question but does show a lack of understanding of how paint works and reasons for certain applications, now dont jump down my throat Jaegar i'm not being funny its just a classic case in point of a well educated professionally trained painter against a general tradesman.

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