DIY Forum

 

Ultimate HandymanUltimate Handyman on Pinterest

 

DIY Forum/Home improvement advice forum

 

 

A-Z CONTENTS | DISCLAIMER | DIY VIDEO | HOME | SAFETY FIRST | FORUM RULES

It is currently Wed Nov 21, 2018 12:05 pm
Visit Hilti


Time zone: Europe/London




 

 


Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 36 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 12:34 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 12:20 pm
Posts: 22
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
Hi Guys,
I am planning on installing my own alarm system using the Texecom Premier Elite Panel, IR's etc. I have been trying to read up as much as I can about the installation however I cannot get my head around the IR installation. On the Elite 24 Panel there are 2 Zone connections for Alarm (8 zones in total) I understand that these get wired to the alarm connectors on the IR however im confused about the Tamper circuit. I think I have to use the AUX/Tamper connection on the panel but do I just put all the Tamper cables into these connectors or even use a terminal block connector?

Thanks for taking the time to read this guys, no doubt I may have more questions before this installation is complete.


Share on FacebookShare on TwitterShare on DiggShare on DeliciousShare on Google+
Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 6:44 pm 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2012 7:03 pm
Posts: 8035
Has thanked: 45 times
Been thanked: 1368 times
I am not familiar with the panel you mention, but it sounds like you will be using a "global tamper" in which case all tampers are "daisy chained" so you end up with 2 wires and these go into the terminals.

If it were me, I wouldn't use a panel that uses global tamper, it can be a right pain finding what the cause of a tamper is.

_________________
Fret not, a forum is a collection of opinions. Above, are mine.

Which is correct? Metre or Meter? Click the link to find out more.

Working on anything electrical? have you got a multi meter? why not? Would you hit a nail with a shoe?

If gloom had a voice, it would be me. :mrgreen:

:idea1: How to post a picture on this forum Click here


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 7:48 pm 
Offline
Approved Electrician

Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2011 7:01 pm
Posts: 2714
Location: South Yorkshire
Has thanked: 168 times
Been thanked: 582 times
The Elite 24 panel normally uses EOL and has a 150 page installation manual.

ISTR the EOL is programmable for 5 different types of EOL choice on each zone.

It's quite a beast for a DIY installation.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 8:46 pm 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2012 7:03 pm
Posts: 8035
Has thanked: 45 times
Been thanked: 1368 times
I just looked at the manual, actually the circuits have a variety of options for configuration. So they can be EOL or NC with global tamper.

I am thinking that for a first time panel it is not the best choice.

_________________
Fret not, a forum is a collection of opinions. Above, are mine.

Which is correct? Metre or Meter? Click the link to find out more.

Working on anything electrical? have you got a multi meter? why not? Would you hit a nail with a shoe?

If gloom had a voice, it would be me. :mrgreen:

:idea1: How to post a picture on this forum Click here


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 10:34 am 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 12:20 pm
Posts: 22
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
Thanks for the reply guys, I understand its not a standard panel for DIY install, I have got costs for someone to come in and hook everything up but I would really like to give it a go myself to see how I get on. Not being big headed but I would class myself as pretty handier and not your normal DIY'er.

I have looked at length through the panel instructions and from what I read my Premier Compact IR's have built in resitors so this should give me EOL for each zone meaning finding faults would be much easier. I just want to confirm the I insert all the tamper wires for each zone in the AUX/tamper connector.

I have looked at length online and I think I understand how to do it all but as I would just like a second opinion.

Thanks Guys.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 5:16 am 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2012 7:03 pm
Posts: 8035
Has thanked: 45 times
Been thanked: 1368 times
If you use EOL and shunt it does not need a tamper pair. (Seems the detectors have that option too)

_________________
Fret not, a forum is a collection of opinions. Above, are mine.

Which is correct? Metre or Meter? Click the link to find out more.

Working on anything electrical? have you got a multi meter? why not? Would you hit a nail with a shoe?

If gloom had a voice, it would be me. :mrgreen:

:idea1: How to post a picture on this forum Click here


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 2:26 pm 
Offline
Troll Headbutter
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2011 8:20 pm
Posts: 8064
Location: On top of a mountain, in the long grass.
Has thanked: 554 times
Been thanked: 1043 times
Go for it. A good experience.

You'll be using EOL for wiring for any PIR's or DT's (Dual Tecs) on that panel. That will be 2 wires for power and 2 wires for detection. If you are using 6 or 8 core, it leaves additional pairs for faults/etc.

Texecom is typically wired as 2k2 for tamper and 4k7 for alarm - but it's possible to use other combinations.

What's the layout of the alarm you are planning:

- How many zones?
- Are you doing door contacts?
- Any keypads (are you using Prox readers?)?
- Any expanders?
- Are you planning on connecting to the net (using the new Galaxy Connect)

If you want an easy life, I'd suggest buying a com usb lead too - https://www.alertelectrical.com/texecom ... EoQAvD_BwE

You can connect to the panel using the free Wintex software - it allows you do all sorts of things, from naming zones, trouble shooting, setting options, etc.

Rgds,

BG

_________________
Arguing with a woman is like reading a Software Licence Agreement.
In the end, you ignore everything and click "I agree".


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 5:35 pm 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2012 7:03 pm
Posts: 8035
Has thanked: 45 times
Been thanked: 1368 times
Just saying.......that looks like a normal USB lead.

_________________
Fret not, a forum is a collection of opinions. Above, are mine.

Which is correct? Metre or Meter? Click the link to find out more.

Working on anything electrical? have you got a multi meter? why not? Would you hit a nail with a shoe?

If gloom had a voice, it would be me. :mrgreen:

:idea1: How to post a picture on this forum Click here


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 8:23 pm 
Offline
Troll Headbutter
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2011 8:20 pm
Posts: 8064
Location: On top of a mountain, in the long grass.
Has thanked: 554 times
Been thanked: 1043 times
someone-else wrote:
Just saying.......that looks like a normal USB lead.


It's not. Just saying.

_________________
Arguing with a woman is like reading a Software Licence Agreement.
In the end, you ignore everything and click "I agree".


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 12:23 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 12:20 pm
Posts: 22
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
BillyGoat wrote:
Go for it. A good experience.

You'll be using EOL for wiring for any PIR's or DT's (Dual Tecs) on that panel. That will be 2 wires for power and 2 wires for detection. If you are using 6 or 8 core, it leaves additional pairs for faults/etc.

Texecom is typically wired as 2k2 for tamper and 4k7 for alarm - but it's possible to use other combinations.

What's the layout of the alarm you are planning:

- How many zones?
- Are you doing door contacts?
- Any keypads (are you using Prox readers?)?
- Any expanders?
- Are you planning on connecting to the net (using the new Galaxy Connect)

If you want an easy life, I'd suggest buying a com usb lead too - https://www.alertelectrical.com/texecom-usb-com-interface-connector-jac-0001.html?prod_id=1036&gclid=CjwKCAiAhMLSBRBJEiwAlFrsTk81ZYpT57KxMQE3OeRilB3ZrlV7e3T-5tjONh72B66JofE_mKdBSxoCQEoQAvD_BwE

You can connect to the panel using the free Wintex software - it allows you do all sorts of things, from naming zones, trouble shooting, setting options, etc.

Rgds,

BG


Thanks for the reply, I am looking forward to giving it a go and I understand that it could be done a lot faster by a pro however I enjoy trying these things out myself.

In terms of my layout, here is what I am thinking:

Zones
I am going for 7 PIR's, each on individual zones. The 8th zone will be used for my Garage, I ran two cables down the wall when we got some work done earlier last year with the intent on putting a PIR out there eventually, the second cable could be used for a third keypad or just as a spare if required. I would like 2 overall zones, 1 will be the ground floor and the 2nd will be the first floor. I will add a third later which will be the garage. The idea is that we can set the alarm at night when we are in bed and then disarm in the morning before going downstairs. I am open to suggestion here. The PIR I have is the Texecom Compact IR.

Door Contacts
Not going for these as getting the cable down to the doors can look messy.

Keypads
I am hoping to install two keypads, one by the main front entrance and the second on the first floor outside our bedroom door or inside, again im open to suggestion here.

Expanders
Not using expanders as I don't think I need any however I am open to suggestions and ideas.

Net Connection
Absolutely wanting to connect it up to the internet for remote viewing and logging etc. I have been looking at the Texecom smart com to enable this, I was told that the wifi connection is better as the hard-wired Ethernet version isn't great? I would prefer to hardwire everything, however, Alarms are new to me and I am trying to listen and understand as much as possible. I will still be running a Cat5 cable to the panel just in case its needed in the future.

My real challenge here is understanding how the PIR's are actually wired, I think I understand the keypads and sounder etc as they are mostly simple connections however I just can't get my head around the PIR's wiring. I can't seem to find an image of one that is wired as a reference point or anything, it would be good to see a fully wired PIR and then how its connected to the panel.

Thanks again for responding guys, looking forward to the weekend to get cracking on it.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 1:05 pm 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2012 7:03 pm
Posts: 8035
Has thanked: 45 times
Been thanked: 1368 times
PIR's are the least of your worries.

4 wires at each end

2 for power
2 for info. /cct (call it what you will)

what could be easier?

I would suggest you at least have the front door on the alarm, and if the garage is NOT attached to the house, don't put it on the alarm.

The front door "thing" is for when you go out, it will set when the front door closes, and start the entry timer when you open the door.

_________________
Fret not, a forum is a collection of opinions. Above, are mine.

Which is correct? Metre or Meter? Click the link to find out more.

Working on anything electrical? have you got a multi meter? why not? Would you hit a nail with a shoe?

If gloom had a voice, it would be me. :mrgreen:

:idea1: How to post a picture on this forum Click here


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 3:31 pm 
Offline
Newly registered Member

Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2009 12:20 pm
Posts: 22
Has thanked: 0 times
Been thanked: 0 times
someone-else wrote:
PIR's are the least of your worries.

4 wires at each end

2 for power
2 for info. /cct (call it what you will)

what could be easier?

I would suggest you at least have the front door on the alarm, and if the garage is NOT attached to the house, don't put it on the alarm.

The front door "thing" is for when you go out, it will set when the front door closes, and start the entry timer when you open the door.


Thanks someone-else, can I just ask why you wouldnt Alarm the garage if its not attached?

Also am I right in thinking that I dont need the resistors for my PIR's as they have them built in?

Also I was planning on simply using the PIR that I was going to place above the front door as the "thing" that starts the entry timer?


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 4:03 pm 
Offline
Senior Member

Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2012 7:03 pm
Posts: 8035
Has thanked: 45 times
Been thanked: 1368 times
If the house alarm goes off, people will look at / in the house for a burglar, not where the burglar really is.........the garage.
Its chucking it down and you want to put the car away, you can't as you have to go indoors turn the alarm off then open the garage.

Buy a small / simple alarm just for the garage, don't even think of putting it on a group / what ever on main alarm.

__________________________________________________________________________

They might do, the blurb implies that they do.

___________________________________________________________________________

That's the worst place to put one. (no really it is)

When you go out if you have a movement sensor you have to set a defined exit time, other wise the device will see you walking and tell the alarm you are outside when you are not. (almost but not outside)
Like wise when you come in, you have to open the door and walk in before the entry time starts. (if you are lucky)

None of the above applies if you have the door on the alarm

_________________
Fret not, a forum is a collection of opinions. Above, are mine.

Which is correct? Metre or Meter? Click the link to find out more.

Working on anything electrical? have you got a multi meter? why not? Would you hit a nail with a shoe?

If gloom had a voice, it would be me. :mrgreen:

:idea1: How to post a picture on this forum Click here


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 7:03 pm 
Offline
Troll Headbutter
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2011 8:20 pm
Posts: 8064
Location: On top of a mountain, in the long grass.
Has thanked: 554 times
Been thanked: 1043 times
Quote:
Zones
I am going for 7 PIR's, each on individual zones. The 8th zone will be used for my Garage, I ran two cables down the wall when we got some work done earlier last year with the intent on putting a PIR out there eventually, the second cable could be used for a third keypad or just as a spare if required. I would like 2 overall zones, 1 will be the ground floor and the 2nd will be the first floor. I will add a third later which will be the garage. The idea is that we can set the alarm at night when we are in bed and then disarm in the morning before going downstairs. I am open to suggestion here. The PIR I have is the Texecom Compact IR.


Have a look at the keypads you are selecting - it will give you an additional 2 zones that you can use.

Personally, I'd use a doors contact setup on final exit. The PIR covering the door would be setup as guard access, allowing you to get to the keypad. You set the alarm, countdown starts and it ends the second you shut the door.

If you are having part sets at night, then it's AREAS that you will be creating. You might well end up with:

A) Full set
B) Part set/Night
C) Garage

The system you have chosen can be made incredibly flexible. Take your garage example......I'd take the cable from the main panel (from the Network - which is what you'll be connecting your keypads too) to the garage and install an expander there. An 8XP would do great.

From that expander, you can then wire 8 zones, plus it gives you an input and outputs.

You can wire the output to a bell, specifically for the garage, linked to that area. If nothing else, it saves running multiple cables back to the house side.

Main panel > 8 core > Expander > Keypad

On the expander, you'll have your zones. You can pick them up for about 20 quid.

If someone breaks in, you'll then get a notification (via connect), the keypad will tell you where and also you can get the correct bell to go off. Or even just the main one on the house if you go for that.

Have a second system is stupid.

Quote:
Door Contacts
Not going for these as getting the cable down to the doors can look messy


Put a photo of your door up - there are lots of ways of doing it and making it look neat.

Quote:
Keypads
I am hoping to install two keypads, one by the main front entrance and the second on the first floor outside our bedroom door or inside, again im open to suggestion here.


Good idea. You can also set/unset and do all sorts of other smart things using the outputs on the panel. For example, you can have a keyswitch or a button to arm areas. I've got an example here where a button press arms/unarms the garage (area C). Using the outputs, it also changes a set of LEDs to green/Red to show armed/disarmed.

I'm using an Elite 48.

[b]
Quote:
Expanders
Not using expanders as I don't think I need any however I am open to suggestions and ideas.
[/b]

see above for examples of making it easier for youself. Sortof.

Quote:
Net Connection
Absolutely wanting to connect it up to the internet for remote viewing and logging etc. I have been looking at the Texecom smart com to enable this, I was told that the wifi connection is better as the hard-wired Ethernet version isn't great? I would prefer to hardwire everything, however, Alarms are new to me and I am trying to listen and understand as much as possible. I will still be running a Cat5 cable to the panel just in case its needed in the future.


Wires always better than wireless. Connect would be the way to go, not the older COMIP or ComWifi.

Quote:
My real challenge here is understanding how the PIR's are actually wired, I think I understand the keypads and sounder etc as they are mostly simple connections however I just can't get my head around the PIR's wiring. I can't seem to find an image of one that is wired as a reference point or anything, it would be good to see a fully wired PIR and then how its connected to the panel.


Attachment:
PIR.png
PIR.png [ 509.4 KiB | Viewed 1693 times ]


Crap photo and I literally just picked it up off the floor, so no holes drilled, etc.

1. Alarm jumper set to 4k7
2. Tamper jumper set to 2k2
3. Pos and Neg - I used red and black. These go to the panel into the +/- between the zones (AUX power).
4. One of the two zone cables goes in the alarm side, far left, the other into the far right tamper. Doesn't matter which order. These then go into the zone in the panel. (look at the destruction sheet - it'll say which of the tamper/alarm contacts to use for EOL wiring).

don't cut back spare cores - you'll find room inside the PIR in case you need them.

BG

_________________
Arguing with a woman is like reading a Software Licence Agreement.
In the end, you ignore everything and click "I agree".


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 7:07 pm 
Offline
Troll Headbutter
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2011 8:20 pm
Posts: 8064
Location: On top of a mountain, in the long grass.
Has thanked: 554 times
Been thanked: 1043 times
Quote:
Thanks someone-else, can I just ask why you wouldnt Alarm the garage if its not attached?

Also am I right in thinking that I dont need the resistors for my PIR's as they have them built in?

Also I was planning on simply using the PIR that I was going to place above the front door as the "thing" that starts the entry timer?


If they are built in, you don't need resistors.

You can do that as Entry/Exit. I said above, I'd prefer doors contacts for final exit setup. Means you don't have issues with PIR settling when you are coming in and out.

PIR would be setup as 'Guard Access' which means it's used to get TO the keypad.

_________________
Arguing with a woman is like reading a Software Licence Agreement.
In the end, you ignore everything and click "I agree".


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 36 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3  Next

 

 




Similar topics
   

Time zone: Europe/London


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Visit Solent plastics


 

 

 

News News Site map Site map SitemapIndex SitemapIndex RSS Feed RSS Feed Channel list Channel list
ultimatehandyman privacy policy

Contact

 

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group

phpBB SEO