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 Post subject: Tap tails
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 12:03 pm 
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I've bought a replacement kitchen tap, I think it's a monobloc type (it's a Reginox Elbe White Ceramic Handle Tap). It came with two 300mm long metal flexible tap tails. When I went to effect the swap under the sink I found all sorts of connections I wasn't expecting. The old tap has copper tails which are connected to (for one of the feeds) a speedfit connector and then a thick white plastic flexible connector and then to a stopcock valve, the other feed is connected to a metal flexible connector and then to copper piping and then to an isolating valve (which doesn't seem to work).

I am wondering if I can simplify this whole installation by just purchasing longer metal flexible tap tails and connecting straight onto the isolating valve and the stopcock valve.

I am confused, though, as to why M10 and M12 metal flexible connectors seem to be available and what the difference (size, obviously) is between them and why there are two standards?

Many thanks for any help. This is more or less my first foray into plumbing. Go easy on me!!


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 Post subject: Re: Tap tails
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 12:54 pm 
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Think I might have partly answered one bit of my question: the M10 and M12 refers to the aperture and thread in the tap itself, right?


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 Post subject: Re: Tap tails
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 12:55 pm 
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Yes, it is the thread end that goes into the tap.

What happens is that the person who fitted it originally was hunting through the fittings they had with them to cobble it together. I had exactly that same issue with a basin recently and I had to take it back to the isolators and start from there. You might have to do one compression joint but you can find push fit fittings for the rest. You might need to get a mini pipe slice and a bit of copper tube. I like Conex copper push fit as they are not bulky and are dead easy to use. See Toolstation for all you need.

Come back if you want more help and a few pics might help :thumbright:

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 Post subject: Re: Tap tails
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 1:06 pm 
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dewaltdisney wrote:
Yes, it is the thread end that goes into the tap.

What happens is that the person who fitted it originally was hunting through the fittings they had with them to cobble it together. I had exactly that same issue with a basin recently and I had to take it back to the isolators and start from there. You might have to do one compression joint but you can find push fit fittings for the rest. You might need to get a mini pipe slice and a bit of copper tube. I like Conex copper push fit as they are not bulky and are dead easy to use. See Toolstation for all you need.

Come back if you want more help and a few pics might help :thumbright:

DWD


Brilliant - it's so helpful to have my suspicions confirmed that it's not the way it is for a good reason. It looks such a bodge. Let's see if I can make it less of a bodge. Remains to be seen!!

I am curious to find out whether my tap tails will just screw onto the isolators/valves. I am hopeful that if they do I can remove all the excess mix of pipework and just plumb my longer tails straight on.

Thanks again. Fingers crossed. The Conex copper push fit look great if I need to go that route...


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 Post subject: Re: Tap tails
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 3:54 pm 
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These are good https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p14081 ... tap%20tail

Use a straight Conex coupler to a bit of copper and then compression fit to isolator valve. You might need a set of these https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p16973 ... r=box%20sp to make it easier getting the half moon bracket off (if it has one).

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 Post subject: Re: Tap tails
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 5:42 pm 
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Yep, use the 15mm x 1/2" tap connector fittings DWD linked to. Although the nuts on your tap tails will fit onto the end of a 15mm compression isolation valve and, in fact, many people do that, it's a bodge. The tap connectors have flat rubber washers and are designed to mate against the flat end of a 1/2" fitting, but if you look at the end of an isolation valve, it's tapered to a point, because it's designed to mate against an olive.

Tap connector straight onto isolation valve is liable to not seal properly -- either too loose and the washer won't seal against the tapered end of the iso valve, or too tight and the tapered end bites into the washer and splits it.

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 Post subject: Re: Tap tails
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 6:48 pm 
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Pics of all the pipework and your new tails . some tails are set for compression to a 15 mm pipe... ummm difficult to explain the difference but some want terminating to a threaded thing-a-ma-bob

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 Post subject: Re: Tap tails
PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 1:50 pm 
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Hello! After much wait...here are three pictures of the underneath of my sink. I can head over to Toolstation or Screwfix this afternoon so if somebody wouldn't mind letting me know the cleanest, tidiest and most efficient way of plumbing in the new tap tails to the existing pipework I would be really grateful! The slotted isolating valve doesn't seem to work at all. Either that or it's just really stiff. Can I safely turn a blowtorch onto it?!

Thanks!


Attachments:
File comment: additional connection! Probably not needed?!
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File comment: from the feed
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File comment: to the taps (copper tap tails)
IMG_7291.JPG
IMG_7291.JPG [ 308.22 KiB | Viewed 306 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Tap tails
PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 2:13 pm 
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Blimey, I see what you mean :lol: A classic case of what have I hot in my bag I reckon.

Turn of your water and strip out as much as you can. Do not use heat as there is a lot of plastic there. I would fit the tap first and then calculate the fittings you need. Strictly speaking the pushfit stuff there should release by pushing the ring into the fitting (it rarely does) so do not faff around, just get it out the best way you can.

It is difficult to guide you precisely but with those Conex fittings, a bit of copper and a mini pipe slice you should be able to neaten it up.

Good luck with it

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 Post subject: Re: Tap tails
PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 2:26 pm 
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Ideally I'd really like to strip it back as you suggest. I'd quite like to connect copper to the T-pieces in the picture at the precise spot where the arrow points. Is that likely to be possible? I'd then have a new isolating valve and terminate in a threaded nut for the tap tails to screw straight onto. That's my hope!


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 Post subject: Re: Tap tails
PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 3:05 pm 
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You should be able to undo both of those fittings and use the existing nut and olive to connect new isolators. In doing this you will have to wrap a fair bit of PTFE tape around the existing olive so that you get a good seal. Do not over tighten them. With new isolators in place you can run from there with just one new compression fitting from each of the new isolators to new copper. Use PTFE again.

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