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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2018 7:56 pm 
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Hi all

I have been living the dream in my first home for two years.

Then the dream was shattered as my neighbors changed and the loudest family moved in next door :cb rather than moaning loads, it’s become impossible to work from home and sleep.

Luckily my house is about to under go a renovation. I’ve looked into expensive sound proffing solution but while the house is ripped apart for the new extension, I was thinking of putting 100mm sound insulation in and building a new block wall up the entire side of the party wall. This would give me a double block wall with sound insulation. I then would add a layer of acoustic plaster board and I would only lose 240mm of space. The house is big enough to lose this space for quietness trade off.

My question is, would this block more noise than the other solutions?

All opinions welcome


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 7:02 pm 
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I would say its not possible to answer your question without tests being carried out.

Have a search through these forums as similar question to yours has been asked several times before, and the general opinion seems to be..............sound travels through air as well as solids so unless you can totally isolate your room, sound will get in.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 9:34 pm 
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heeellloooo and welcome Crabbit :welcome: :welcome: :welcome:
as said different sounds travel different ways
its worth talking to them as there's several things they can easily do to help
they may have flooring rather than carpets is this a flat or house ??

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 10:51 pm 
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:welcomeuhm:

You say "next door" so I'll assume that you are in a semi or a terraced house of some description. Ads mentioned before sound can travel in various ways: through walls, along walls, through floor voids, etc. It really isn't possible to deal with floor voids effectively and trying to stop sound being transmitted through exterior walls and interior floors is difficult, especially when dealing with low frequency sounds (e.g. bass drum beats) which tend to travel far further through dense building materials than higher frequency sounds (e.g. children laughing, singing, etc), but fortunately that generally isn't the biggest source of sounds coming from next door. The biggest source is actually the party wall, and that you can deal with.

Between the wall of the building and yourselves you ideally need to have some form of sound deadening material which will absorb or break-up soundwaves travelling through it. Mineral wool batting works well for this and is generally chosen for sound insulation in office partitioning - it does need to be installed without any gaps and for that an insulation knife is a must (to cut the pieces where needed - far better than an old saw). The thicker the better IMHO, but aim for at least 100mm. This batting is used to fill the hollow core of a new dry lined wall.

The wall itself is best installed using a resillient bar system which should have a minimal number of support brackets to hold it off the wall.

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Above: Commercially-installed resillient bar system used in a modern apartment. Note the minimal use of brackets to fix the bars to the wall and that the top and bottoms of the rails are fixed into steel tracks. these tracks can additionally be bedded onto a bead of soundproofing cauly=k or silicon sealant to minimu=ise sound transmission from floor/ceiling to the metal

Whilst you can use plain grey plasterboard to clad the resillient bars, a sound blocker plasterboard such British Gypsum SoundBloc (the lilac-coloured stuff) in 12mm or better still 15mm thickness will give you a good amount of additional sound proofing. The minimum possible number of res. bar brackets should be use to secure the clips to the wall. These should be fixed to the wall using nylon plugs. The plasterboards should be tightly butted against each other with the minimal number of cuts and screwed onto the res bars. Ideally the boards should be cut so that there is a small gap all round between the board edge and the wall/ceiling/floor. This gap is filled using an appropriate soundproofing caulk/sealant. If a single layer of PB isn't enough a second layer might be considered, to be laid at right angles to the first layer with the joints between the two layers staggered.

Further improvements can be made by using a heavy felt or heavy rubber underlay beneath the carpets on all floors (laminate and solid wood transmit sound very well, I found). You will struggle with sound which is transmitted along the front and back walls, though

I'm not talking theory here - I had noisy neighbours and I did cure 90% of the problems using the sort of approach given above - the only difference is that in the 30 years since I did my sound deadening job the materials available have improved (hence why you have the "how I'd do it now" version). My aproach was good enough to get somewhere over 25dB noise reduction. I'd say - so the b'stards an be blotted out by simply turning the TV or the radio on when the inconsiderate imbeciles are being boisterous these days

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 11:37 pm 
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Thanks for the welcomes and help guys

So jobs and knocks

Do you think the solution you have suggested would reduce more noise that another block wall with sound insulation?

I’m in a terraced house 1960 I think and I’m assuming there is only a single block wall between us. They also have tiles floors next door, the worst bit being they drag their chairs instead of picking them up ::b


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