Yes more questions... you can blame ban-all-sheds for pointing this out and making me wonder..

In my new kitchen ive gotta get some new sockets wired in, and some built in appliances wired in... from helpful folks on here and some reading up i know i have to have them switchable externally, which makes sense as you cant really quickly move it to pull the plug out etc...

..So i was thinking of having to have a socket above the worktop for each appliance, but the wonderful ban-all-sheds mentioned these grid systems which ive now looked into and think would be the ideal solution, a nice switch panel, with pre-brought labelled switches for all the appliances in a nice finish...

My question is basically how are these wired in, im guessing and its a guess from reading on the net, that the switches are wired into the ring main, like a socket would be... so if it was a 3 switch system, with some extra sockets in the room it would be..


CU - socket - socket - grid switch - grid switch - socket - socket - CU

But how are the appliances wired from the grid switch? Are they wired as an effective spur from the grid switch? If so each grid switch would have a cable from it to its designated appliance.

If this is correct, then the chasing to the grid switch on the wall would need to be big enough for a ring main cable to and from it, and in my case of needing 6 switches, i would also need another 6 cables from it to the appliances...

Would i be allowed this is a normal house, as the chase would have to be fairly wide to get all the cable in nice and neatly??

So in my example ring main above it would become..

CU - socket - socket - Grid switch - Grid switch - socket - socket - CU
| |
| |
FCU FCU
| |
Washing Dish
Machine Washer


And in this kind of situation, it would be a good idea to use DP grid switches so its switching both the live and neutral supply to the appliance?

Or am i a million miles off the basics?

If this kind of installation is possible for my kitchen im gonna have to ask the electrician thats doing the work how much extra as i think it will be neater, although i guess it might use more wire, and take a little more time to do...

Yes what you are saying isn't too far off. But I would put the grid on its own circuit. Better job but not essential.

Don't forget you will not have enough room behind the intergrated appliances for a socket. You will have to use a connection blanking plate for them with the fuse for the appliances in the grid.

So if you have 3 intergrated appliances you will need a nine way grid.

Non intergrated appliances can just have a normal socket behind.

1) Don't put it on a ring final - it should go on a dedicated radial.

2) Not sure how Marky worked out that you need a 9-way grid - each appliance will need 2 modules, a switch and a fuse.

_________________


I'm sorry - I can't come in to work today, the voices are telling me to stay at home and clean the guns.

.

Ah ill have to skip that idea then, cant have another circuit added without major house disturbance, already discovered this after wanting a heavy duty cooker circuit added...

So im stuck using the existing kitchen ring main... so ill have to stick with the switch above each appliance....

..well it was a good idea while it lasted

Only the intergrated appliances would need a fuse, as there is no room behind them for a socket and plug.

The free standing appliances you could get away with a socket and plug. but the supply from grid switch to the sockets would have to be installed in 4mm. If the circuit is protected by 32amp MCB.

"but the supply from grid switch to the sockets would have to be installed in 4mm. If the circuit is protected by 32amp MCB."

Why? if its a single socket and the plug top is fused, no different to a spurred socket just with a DP isolator.

True the load cable to socket from grid is never going to exceed 13 amps if supplying a socket.

But in case of mechanical damage etc it would be better if it was installed in 4mm.

Point taken about the spurs. But I do think if cable from grid is unfused. It would be a much better job if the cable was rated to withstand the main MCB>

As i cant seemingly now have this grid arrangement, as i can have a new radial circuit in the kitchen, whats the next best solution??

And what sort of connections will the built in appliances need then, if they cant have olug and sockets?

From looking at the manuals on the bosch website, they all seem to come with plugs fitted as standard?

I suppose it could be removed and the appliance wired in with a flex outlet socket? Although im not sure if thats possible or not....

Who says you can't?



I wish you would make your mind up...



LEAVE IT TO YOUR ELECTRICIAN!!!

_________________


I'm sorry - I can't come in to work today, the voices are telling me to stay at home and clean the guns.

.

So WTF didn't you plan things properly?

Surely it's not because you thought you could press on with electrical design work even though you knew you lacked competence?

_________________


I'm sorry - I can't come in to work today, the voices are telling me to stay at home and clean the guns.

.

The electrician who came round and told me it would be very expensive to get a new cooker circuit into my kitchen, as it would mean distroying nearly every room in the house, which we cant afford to do at the minute, the advise was new CU to replace the tired old one, and seperate the kitchen ringmain..




Come on, dont use half a quote, yes i made a spelling mistake, sorry for being human, if you use the whole quote its obvious i meant CANT..





I will be leaving the work to him, im using this DIY forum, to ask for advice on what options i have, which surely is the point of this kind of forum??? If everybody just asked the professional involved the site wouldnt have any posts would it?

How do i wire in a socket = get an electrician.

How do i plumb in my sink = get a plumber.

How do i plaster my wall = get a builder.

Fantastic idea... site would be a right winner!

Surely "PLANNING" is what im now doing

I must have misunderstood the point of this DIY forum, i thought it was a place for friendly helpful advice for people... not just plain abuse?

Im not planning to do the work myself, i know i cant and ive never said i can, im after advice from people WHO CAN do it, what sort of options i have to solve my problems.... which i think is a sensible thing to do.

let me apologise for that attitude, on behalf of the majority of forum users and tradesmen, we are here to help. most of us genuinely come on here to politely help. on the odd occasion we have to say the best help we can give is to suggest they don't do it themselves but i wouldn't say that was true here.

for some unknown reason Ban-All-Sheds can't seem to help himself. he posts a few replies but then always seems to find a way of insulting people.

some of us don't get involved in a thread when 2 or 3 sparkies have already started helping out but i did read this this time. i hope you feel you can return for any further issues you may need help on. that IS what this forum is for. insults will not be tolerated.

Hear hear!!

I know most of you are helpful, ive been reading up on loads of things, which is why i joined the site...

I do understand the legalitys and that you have to be careful what you say incase people do try it themselves... but i dont see the need for abuse in the equation... but i wont be going far, too many FRIENDLY helpful people still on here.

Back to the topic though if i may... what options do i have in my kitchen for wiring the appliances when the new kitchens in?

It can only be on its ringmain, i cant get a radial circuit etc added from the CU, although any wiring in the room is possible as its all being replastered etc anyway.

Theres gonna be a washing machine, dishwasher, fridge, freezer, 13amp oven and gas hob going in, which are all intergrated appliances...

As i cant have a grid switch set up now due to the lack of possible radial circuit, is my only option left remaining, the switched FCU above the worktop controlling a socket below... which would do the job, but would leave me with lots of sockets above worktop height, which in my small kitchen would be a little OTT really, but if thats the only way, it will be done that way. Better to be safe than sorry....