Have you got a 30A cooker supply in the room?

Connecting the appliances on FCUs above the worktop will be no differant than connecting them on a grid.

In an electrical sense there isn't much differant. Just the load cables are a little bit longer that's all

No we dont, which is why we had to compromise on the double oven, to a single 13amp oven... so its all coming off the kitchen ring main unforunately... the hob is gas but obviously has electronic ignition and flame failure device.

Now i am getting confused...

Going by a previous post about the grid system, i thought i couldnt use a grid system as it could only be used on a radial circuit, not the ring main...



So i thought that meant i would have to just use the normal ring main for the sockets, but having switched FCUs above each appliance to meet the regulations, so they can be turned off incase of problems...

A grid system would be nicer, the amount of wirings not a problem really and the rooms getting trashed anyway, so if it was a viable option, for the little work extra it would give a much better finish...

From what i gathered in previous topics, its the grid switches that get supplied with the power supply... and a spur from the switch goes direct to a dedicated socket for the appliance... and its best to use DP switches to fully isolate the appliance when off.

Also from what ive read theres a debate on cable size to use, some say normal 2.5mm is fine if its fused at 13amp, but others say use 4mm so the cable is rated above the CUs trip to prevent possible issues if there was a problem...

My other question was about the grid switch plate options as well... its never ending with me... Sorry...

Again in a previous post, it was mentioned that i would need a switch and a fuse per item in the grid switch, so with 6 grid switches i would also need 6 fuses... making a 12 unit facia needed...which is gonna be a HUGE in my little kitchen, couldnt i get fused connection plates behind the appliances for however the appliances get joined into... (which is another unknown for me at the minute )

I know changing the fuse would be a nightmare but it shouldnt need doing often, and i wouldve expected the CU to trip first anyway??

But if you think having the fuses on the switch would be better, then thats life, and if i could have a grid set up, then thats how it would be.

But if i cant have a grid as its not recommended, and using switched FCUs above the worktops is basically the same... what other options have i got?

So if your saying i could use a grid system, which i know isnt confirmed as yet... this is a IF..

AND BEFORE I GET SHOT DOWN WITH THE BIG GUNS, im not planning to do it myself, im not thinking about doing it myself, and i WONT be doing it myself, im just gaining information so i know what i want and what i need to be asking for...

Would running a grid switch from my kitchen ring, using DP switches, wired to each appliance with 4mm cable be safe and sensible? The cables could be chased into the walls and over the ceiling for the appliances on the other side of the room, or they could be set into the concrete floor whichever is better.. obviously using whatever conduit/protection required?

Ok
Lets start again.

Yes, you could use a multi gang grid switch.
No, you dont have to use fuses in the grid switch plate.
But, each grid switch needs to be on the ring.
You can use 2.5mm between the grid switch and the single socket outlet or fused flex outlet. The applied load is only going to be 13A max and the 2.5/1.5mm cable will clear the 32A cpd with no thermal damage as long as the earth loop impedance is low enough for that device or a rcd is fitted. This your electrician will check and record on the installation certificate.
The grid box is going to be fairly packed with cables so the 4mm option would not work well.

It makes no difference if you use a grid box or seperate DP switches or switch fuse spurs to the circuit you still have the same load.

Your biggest problem is the single 32a circuit for the load you have but applying diversity it would probably still come back ok.

Cant check as my regs books as one of my electricians has them for revision for his 2391 exam.

To be honest with you if I was doing this job and the customer was going to be asking elsewhere if what I was doing was ok or asking others about the design I would not be a happy chap.
If your man is a pukka guy he will the job to the regs and do a good job for you and to make the job run smoothly ask him these questions get his advise and trust him.

Your help has been much appriciated.... i owe you a nice cold beer for sure!

But doing so means the following:

1) Unfused plugs can be used for the appliances, which is handy because they tend to be in hard-to-access locations.

2) Smaller cables can be used on the load side.



The problem then is that you're effectively concentrating the load of all the appliances onto virtually a single point on the ring.

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I'm sorry - I can't come in to work today, the voices are telling me to stay at home and clean the guns.

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