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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 3:26 pm 
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wine~o wrote:
The wiring will be as per this pic..

Attachment:
smart switch wiring.jpg


as you need a deeper back box mark all the wires before starting; Lecky off should go without saying.

All earths stay connected as is and the brown jumper wire can be kept in your toolbox... you never know when it'll come in handy.
This is what I suspected from a logical aspect will prob give it a go tomorrow thank u for your help

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 3:27 pm 
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Thanks for your help guys will keep you posted how it turns out

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 4:53 pm 
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Dceternal wrote:
wine~o wrote:
The wiring will be as per this pic..

Attachment:
smart switch wiring.jpg


as you need a deeper back box mark all the wires before starting; Lecky off should go without saying.

All earths stay connected as is and the brown jumper wire can be kept in your toolbox... you never know when it'll come in handy.
This is what I suspected from a logical aspect will prob give it a go tomorrow thank u for your help

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1 last question would I be best off using solid core mains wire ?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 5:17 pm 
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:scratch: :scratch: you use the existing wiring which will probably be 1 mm or 1.5 mm twin and earth...

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 3:30 pm 
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All finished and working well ImageImageImageImageImageImage

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 3:35 pm 
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Excellent

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 3:41 pm 
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Just remember to recommend the forum to your friends. :salute:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 3:42 pm 
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wine~o wrote:
Just remember to recommend the forum to your friends. :salute:
Ha ha will do plus I'll be back for future needs

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 3:47 pm 
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Dceternal wrote:
All finished and working well


Please tell me that the strip connectors are inside the back box and not inside the stud wall.



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 4:33 pm 
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OnlyMe wrote:
Dceternal wrote:
All finished and working well


Please tell me that the strip connectors are inside the back box and not inside the stud wall.
Both live and netural but not the earths, why's that may I ask as I'm trying to educate myself

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 5:57 pm 
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any junctions that are not "maintenance free" (which includes the connector block you have used) must be easily accessible. inside the switch box they are accessible; behind it not so.

If you replace the connector block with say a wago connector (google) which is a maintenance free connector you are fine.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 6:00 pm 
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wine~o wrote:
any junctions that are not "maintenance free" (which includes the connector block you have used) must be easily accessible. inside the switch box they are accessible; behind it not so.

If you replace the connector block with say a wago connector (google) which is a maintenance free connector you are fine.


Ah I see, I've actually got some wago blocks on order from flea bay thank you for the information

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 6:09 pm 
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wine~o wrote:
any junctions that are not "maintenance free" (which includes the connector block you have used) must be easily accessible. inside the switch box they are accessible; behind it not so.

If you replace the connector block with say a wago connector (google) which is a maintenance free connector you are fine.


Not if they are in the stud wall without a proper enclosure.



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 11:49 pm 
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Wine~o has given the answer, L2 was not used on either switch so unlikely 2 way. However be aware if you get a power cut the lights will not come back on when power is returned.

I have an energenie smart switch in bedroom, saved running cables for two way switching, but a power cut and light stays off even after power is returned.



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