I have a pumped shower in the upstairs bathroom, pump installed in the airing cupboard adjacent to the HW cylinder. We also have unregulated solar HW which easily provides water at 80 C ++ in the summer months.
This damages the shower pump (2 so far), causing pulsing and cavitation, which is a pain for those taking a shower.
To fix this, I intend to install a Salamander TMW (it's a Salamander CT-50 pump) -
http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/salamander- ... 3603-22165The install diagrams for this indicate that it needs a dedicated 22mm supply from the header tank, which will be a complete PITA to arrange.
I also need to fit an S-Flange to the tank as none is currently fitted and, whilst I'm at it, replace the immersion element that is currently U/S.
I'm a fairly competent DIY plumber and *really* want to avoid waiting weeks and then shelling out lots of cash to get a professional to do this, but it's easily the most complex job I've tried, hence need for some advice.
Immersion Element first: I assume I just need to unscrew the existing one, wire up and screw in the new. Is that correct? Any obvious dumb mistakes to avoid? (Yes, I can do the 'leccy stuff - part P and all that...)
Next the Flange: Same question really. Presumably I just drain down the HW, disconnect the existing pipework at the top of the tank, screw the flange into place and reconnect the pipework to the top of the flange? Any common errors here? (Obviously I need to re-route the existing shower pipework to the flange, rather than the existing T, but that's all visible and easy.)
Lastly the TMV... Salamander recommend their own one (they would, wouldn't they!) but like I said the 22mm feed from the loft will be a pain. I have loads of CW head-pressure (about 2.5M from tank-top to header tank); so can I just tap into the existing supply in that case, or do I *really* need the separate feed?
If the Salamander TMV does require the dedicated feed, can I use one like this instead?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-4in ... id=1182090The only differences I can see are the HoneyWell is rated to 46 C output rather than 55 C and has non-return valves.
- Does it matter that the TMV has non-return valves? Why?
- Given that we like fairly hot showers, will the decreased input temp for the pump cause a problem? (I'm thinking that the thermostatic shower will probably not draw so much cold when the hot is only 46 C rather than 55, which might mean the flow is quite low on the cold side of the pump...)
Lastly - all this started because of the problems caused by over-hot water. Since we're now running off the boiler again, the pump seems to be behaving better and I'm rather hoping not to have to buy another new one. What should I look out for in case it has been permanently damaged by the heat? Leaks? Obvious distortion of the housing? (Neither present afaics) Anything else?
Thanks
Tim
