Used johnstones satin in my house 1 kid, 1 dog, 1 cat , 2 immature adults and it has not chipped at all been on 18 months and as white as the day it was put on

Bradley that's a logical point; however it turns out that actually floetrol is in itself a binder and you can bung quite a lot in without compromising strength, apparently it causes a very slight change in sheen.

You'll destroy your Purdy unless you have some meths to wash it out in BTW

Bin 123 sands very well, but it is tough to cover.

_________________
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Was this the water based (acrylic) one?

I'd like to add a wildcard to the mix here... At the end of last year I used some Johnstones woodworks opaque satin finish (water based) on exterior windows and was actually pretty impressed with the general workability and finish. It goes off pretty quick but with a bit of water or floetrol (think that would be ok but would need to double check) and a decent brush (I used Purdy glides) it gives a nice result. I've been tempted to use it internally but the chance hasn't yet arisen, I reckon it would beat any acrylic satin I've tried. Plus they can mix it to a virtual exact match of nay F+B colour.

That's interesting. I thought you'd recommended it (ie adding floetrol) on here, but assumed it was for the oil-based satinwood. When I asked my local paint retailer to get me some floetrol and explained what I wanted it for, he had a conversation with Johnstones (whose paint he stocks) and they insisted that you should only ever add water to their acrylic satin and no more than 5%.

Does it make the finish flatter or shinier?

Have now decided to buy a small tin of Johnstones WB satinwood and just do one door and see how I get on. Watch this space....

Good luck! Make sure you use a synthetic brush though, not a bristle one.

At these temperatures I am not using floetrol at the moment! I am pretty sure the Floetrol is okay in the Johnstones - the tech are probably worried about the paint settling out into its component parts, but I think they designed Floetrol specifically to hold paint together; I think it has + and - charged atomic groups on a carbon chain which grip onto the water and pigment. Sorry I cannot be bothered to find the very hard to find PDF Tech sheet which specifies this to check! You could do a hardness / abrasion / scratch test maybe if you are worried. I think we may would have heard if there were serious problems.

I am not sure how much the addition of Floetrol changes the sheen, someone just mentioned it on another forum - they might be wrong as some of the paints change sheen level with the amount of water added. If there is a dramatic change it is a sign that the components are settling out and the paint is loosing its integrity. Coloured oil based seems to be troublesome in this regard!

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Yes it was. I would try it on a piece of wood to get to grips with it. Wipe over half of the door with a damp sponge and then paint it helps it go on better and gives you a longer wet edge working time as you have to be quick when painting with it.

In addition to a good synthetic brush, have a look at this - should be helpful. It's a Dulux video but the techniques for water based are the same.

Used the Bullseye 123 today on existing oil based gloss door frames. Had already sanded frames down before I got the 123, even though I later discovered I didn't have to do this. Was advised to use this stuff as water base paints dont always go on oil based paints smoothly (no matter how much prep work you do!).

All I can say is "no time for a coffee break" with this stuff. Could't believe how thick it was and you could literally watch the paint dry. Now it has all dried it looks quite decent. Quite impressed with myself (only 1 run which I caught). Glad I had a decent Purdy brush (taken somebodys advice from a post) I really noticed the difference from a cheap DIY brush.

Tomorrow I will paint on Johnstones Acrylic satinwood to the frames and the panel door. Took peoples advice and got a small tin to see how I get on with it .... watch this space.

Ive got the doors that are already primed (howdens 2 panel moulded doors similar to B&Q cost below £25.00) Are these alright to wipe with a damp cloth?

Yes you can,just one other thing when painting molding on door have a damp cloth and after painting panels just wipe any excess off the flats of the stiles. It stops any ridges forming ,so when you paint the stiles it will be flat.

I have fully painted one door and frame. I found that the Johnstones acrylic satin paint went on easily and I rushed the first side of the door thinking that the paint would dry really quickly. The other side I did a bit more slowly. The overall finish I am happy with apart from the "orange peel" effect on the panels and stiles. I have used rollers with OB and not had this problem! I used a roller that the shop recommended for WB paint. I was disappointed that a 1 litre tin only did 2 coats of one door and frame. The tin says 12 sq meters of paint. Am I doing something wrong to use this much paint?

The sleeve you need is a flock sleeve over a foam inner.

The shop have given you an emulsion sleeve I think?

If you are using that much paint, then you will get and orange peel effect. It takes a bit of getting used to, especially if you have been used to oil in the past.

Try looking on the Dulux website or youtube, seraching dulux water based and see if you can find any visual assistance. You certainly seem to have any eye for finish which most people don't.