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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 10:07 pm 
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Hi
I am replacing my old mechanical room thermostat for a digital salus one. I have replaced one of these before in my old house but the only difference was the boiler which was of a different make.
Anyway, I wire the live into the live the live natural into the neutral and what I'm assuming the remaining wire is the switched live into the switched live terminal, but the thermostat does nothing no power or anything. All the wires have 240v running down them and i am a little confused to why this is not working?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 1:44 am 
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Nrick82 wrote:
Hi
I am replacing my old mechanical room thermostat for a digital salus one. I have replaced one of these before in my old house but the only difference was the boiler which was of a different make.
Anyway, I wire the live into the live the live natural into the neutral and what I'm assuming the remaining wire is the switched live into the switched live terminal, but the thermostat does nothing no power or anything. All the wires have 240v running down them and i am a little confused to why this is not working?

:welcomeuhm:

More information is required for us to work with.

Model of boiler.

Make model of old mechanical stat and how many wires were connected to it ?

You say all wires have 240v running down them, that doesn't sound right, how are you measuring the voltages.

You say you have connected the live and neutral to the Salus but it doesn't power on.
Are you able to confirm that there is 240v across those terminals ?

Basically there are two types of switching 240v or Volt Free and you need to check what type of switching the boiler is wired for.

Your new Salus EP101 programmable stat requires a permanent 240v supply and can be configured for 240v or volt free switching.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 8:59 pm 
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The boiler is an alpha inTec 28X and the old mechanical thermostat is a Drayton combo stat. The old stat has 3 wires running to it which when I measured the voltages before the stat must of been clicked on because when it's clicked off the neutral and the "call for heat" wire have 160v with the live still showing 240v.
All these voltages are measured with a digital multimeter which has been calibrated.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 11:11 pm 
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Just checked and it looks like your boiler is 240 switched.
Your old Drayton Combi stat has a live, neutral and a switched live out to the boiler.
So in theory it should be just a matter of moving live, neutral and switched live wires over to the new Salus stat like for like.
In the Salus stat you have live and neutral connections, can you measure 240v across those connections with your multimeter.
You should also have a wire link from the live terminal to pin 4.
The switch live out to the boiler is on pin 3.
If it was me I would also check the connections at the boiler connector block to confirm the live, neutral and switched live wires and their colours.
After all that there is always a chance that the Salus stat is faulty.
If you want to prove that the Salus is working (powers on)you could connect a length of twin cable to the live and neutral terminals and fit a mains plug and see if it powers on.


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