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 Post subject: Ryobi nailers
PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 9:32 pm 
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Evening all

Got a job coming up building stud partition walls in an office, lots of arc. Skirting etc to do so was looking around for a 2nd fix nailer that won't break the bank.

Got some ryobi gear and wondered if anyone knows if they'd be any good for fixing said woodwork through metal studs? Prefer metal studs to timber. Door frames and skirtings will have timber inside the metalwork to fix to but need to know if the 16 or 18 gauge nailers will be man enough to penetrate the metal.

If not any suggestions on what more budget end tool might be able to?

Thanks in advance


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 Post subject: Re: Ryobi nailers
PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 10:16 pm 
Pro Carpenter
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afraid not 18 guage is around 0.75mm and 16 gauge around 1.3mm so small and large pins really


we are all ------------------still learning

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 Post subject: Re: Ryobi nailers
PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 10:32 pm 
Old School Chippie
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There seems to be point of confusion amongst DIYers about why tradesmen use 2nd fix nailers to fix skirting. The fact is that the pins don't hold anything for long - the work of holding the skirting in place is actually done by the grip adhesive - the pins are only used to secure the skirting until the grip adhesive has set (24 hours or so). As far as architraves go, if they are softwood or MDF, then the pins will hold them in place on their own. For MDF and softwood many experienced decorators I've talked with over the years seem to prefer 16ga holes, or larger, because they will hold filler better than 18ga holes. If I'm working into MF framing I try to use shorter pins which only go through the skirting and the plasterboard (say 32 to 38mm with 18mm skirting and 12mm PB - 38mm permits a bit of angling which can be useful when it becomes necessary to dovetail the pins to get a good fix, such as is required on hollow walls) because continualy hitting metal will eventually shear the driver pin in the nail gun - potentially expensive. One trick I have learned, though, is to lay down a softwood sole plate along the line of the walls where the flooring is exceptionally hard (e.g. granite, hard concrete, etc) because it is easy enough to SDS drill, plug and screw this down then to screw the floor channel MF to that than it is to try nailing MF channel onto a super-hard floor. It also provides a backer into which skirtings, etc can be nailed. Lastly, don't forget to insert well-fitted softwood timber patresses into the upright channels where door openings, etc are - makes it easier to fix door casings (and I've even seen so-called professional dry liners miss those out where the site agent hasn't been looking). 18ga does have it's place in fit-outs, though, but for me that's really on clear-finish material such pre-lacquered oak (often in conjunction with pelleting) whwre the pin holes can be reality hidden with coloured waxes at the end of the job - far easier and less obtrusive with 18ga holes than 16ga

"The person who never made a mistake, never made anything" - Albert Einstein

"I too will something make, And joy in the making" - Robert Bridges, 1844~1930

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