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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:11 pm 
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Hi Guys, does anyone know if it's possible to run 6-core burglar alarm cable to a bellbox, next to a power cord - IE. in trunking?
I'm just wondering because in the Texecom Odyssey External Siren manual it suggests not to. For Interference reasons.
The way I am installing my burglar alarm makes it untidy if I run them seperately.

Does anyone have any knowledge or tips on this.

The way I am wiring the external siren to the panel is: from the panel in the hall, up along the stairs' skirting board, into one of the upstairs bedrooms, and through a hole outside to the front of the property - which is where I am mounting the siren.

---Is this okay? Is this how bell boxes are normally installed?? I
don't want to have to run wires across inside the wall cavity, as it is too complex for me, I don't have much experience of installing burglar alarms!


I am having trunking that goes down from the panel to a socket in the hall, for the panel power cable and bell box cable come out of. To make the installation look tidy.

Is it alright to wire the panel up to a UK plug, with a 3 amp fuse? Or should a pattress box be used, I don't want to have to wire a spur.

I am installing a Honeywell ADE Optima Compact Panel,
with 4 PIRs,
2 Magnetic Door Contacts
and a Texecom X1 (X-BE) External Siren.

Thanks very much,
Matt!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 10:11 pm 
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You have answered your own question.

MattWills12 wrote:
because in the Texecom Odyssey External Siren manual it suggests not to. For Interference reasons


To expand on that, if you get a spike or similar it can induce a spike down the alarm cable, this can then do all sort of things, it could be ok for years, but it only has to go wrong once. I have seen it where a fluorescent light caused an unset alarm to go into tamper every time the light was turned on, all because the cable was run parallel with the light cable.



MattWills12 wrote:
Is it alright to wire the panel up to a UK plug, with a 3 amp fuse

No. It has to be connected by a non switched fused spur.

To expand on that, its so you (or any one else) can not "accidentally" switch it off or unplug it. Also it means Joe burglar can not unplug it either.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 10:48 pm 
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Use CAT6 (network) cable or screened CAT5 and you'll be ok. The combination of twisted pairs and screening will prevent interference.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:02 pm 
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Thankyou Both Very Much!

Any tips on installing a pattress non-switched fuse box spur?
How do you route the mains wires out of the single socket to the spur?

Many thanks again,
Matt :-)


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:07 pm 
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So using the Ethernet cable instead of the alarm cable, wired up to the panel prevents interference?

kellys_ eye wrote:
Use CAT6 (network) cable or screened CAT5 and you'll be ok. The combination of twisted pairs and screening will prevent interference.


Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 9:50 am 
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MattWills12 wrote:
How do you route the mains wires out of the single socket to the spur?

Many thanks again,
Matt :-)

Out the back/side of the pattress box. You're meant to run the cable sub-surface to the destination socket. Knock out (and grommet) one of the entry/exit holes in the pattress box.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 9:53 am 
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MattWills12 wrote:
So using the Ethernet cable instead of the alarm cable, wired up to the panel prevents interference?
Thanks

"Significantly reduces" rather than "prevents". You're still not meant to run power and signal side-by-side but if I was 'stuck' and it was MY installation, this is what I'd do.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 11:34 am 
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Hi, thanks for your reply!
Just realised there is already a surface mount non-switched FCU, in the hall, supplying power to an external security light.
Would it be possible to install the alarm's FCU next to the other FCU and connect it as a spur?

So would you just wire the new FCU into the other FCU's "In" terminals.


This would be easier as I don't have to dig into the wall.


Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:08 pm 
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Yes, and yes.

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Take it easy, a forum is only a collection of opinions. Above, are mine.

Which is correct? Metre or Meter? Click the link. to find out more.

No such thing as "Thou shalt put this wire here, Thou shalt put that wire there" .............Take a picture BEFORE you do the job.

If gloom had a voice, it would be me. :mrgreen:

:idea1: How to post a picture on this forum Click here



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 2:24 pm 
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someone-else wrote:
Yes, and yes.

Brilliant!!

Cheers!!!


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 5:22 pm 
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No - you're not permitted to spur off a spur.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 5:51 pm 
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:oops: Sorry Kellys_eye is not wrong, but I have an easy solution. (Its easier than it reads)

Connect the new fused connection unit (Now to be known as the 2nd one) to the LOAD side of the first fused connection unit.
Take the cable that now supplies the external light out from the Fused connection unit (The first one)
Now connect the cable that supplies the external light to the 2nd fused connection unit.
Connect the alarm to the 1st Fused connection unit's LOAD side (Along with the supply to the 2nd FCU cable)

:-)

The idea is that the first fused connection unit's fuse protects anything connected after it, so you can have as many fused connection units after it as you like. (No really, you can, no idea why you would want to, but you can)

You connect the alarm to the first FCU so that if the external light fails and takes out a fuse it will only take out the fuse in the FCU it is connected to (The 2nd one) NOT the first one that the alarm is connected to

_________________
Take it easy, a forum is only a collection of opinions. Above, are mine.

Which is correct? Metre or Meter? Click the link. to find out more.

No such thing as "Thou shalt put this wire here, Thou shalt put that wire there" .............Take a picture BEFORE you do the job.

If gloom had a voice, it would be me. :mrgreen:

:idea1: How to post a picture on this forum Click here



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 7:59 pm 
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Wow! Thanks for the lengthy reply, you must've put a lot of thought into this.


someone-else wrote:
Connect the new fused connection unit (Now to be known as the 2nd one) to the LOAD side of the first fused connection unit.
Take the cable that now supplies the external light out from the Fused connection unit (The first one)
Now connect the cable that supplies the external light to the 2nd fused connection unit.
Connect the alarm to the 1st Fused connection unit's LOAD side (Along with the supply to the 2nd FCU cable)


So basically there are two sets of load at the 1st fused connection unit; and there are also two sets of supply to the 1st FCU, one in, one out?

someone-else wrote:
The idea is that the first fused connection unit's fuse protects anything connected after it, so you can have as many fused connection units after it as you like. (No really, you can, no idea why you would want to, but you can)


And in theory the external security light is now "double fuse protected"?
So if I wanted to add more FCUs, just connect their supply to the previous FCU's load. Is that correct?
If the first FCU's fuse blows, the power to the second one is cut off.

someone-else wrote:
You connect the alarm to the first FCU so that if the external light fails and takes out a fuse it will only take out the fuse in the FCU it is connected to (The 2nd one) NOT the first one that the alarm is connected to



Ohhh! So if the security light's fuse fails, the Alarm's stays in tact.

Thank you so much! I really get this now, :lol: !!

:-)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 8:35 pm 
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MattWills12 wrote:
Hi Guys, does anyone know if it's possible to run 6-core burglar alarm cable to a bellbox, next to a power cord - IE. in trunking?
I'm just wondering because in the Texecom Odyssey External Siren manual it suggests not to. For Interference reasons.
The way I am installing my burglar alarm makes it untidy if I run them seperately.

Does anyone have any knowledge or tips on this.

The way I am wiring the external siren to the panel is: from the panel in the hall, up along the stairs' skirting board, into one of the upstairs bedrooms, and through a hole outside to the front of the property - which is where I am mounting the siren.

---Is this okay? Is this how bell boxes are normally installed?? I
don't want to have to run wires across inside the wall cavity, as it is too complex for me, I don't have much experience of installing burglar alarms!


I am having trunking that goes down from the panel to a socket in the hall, for the panel power cable and bell box cable come out of. To make the installation look tidy.

Is it alright to wire the panel up to a UK plug, with a 3 amp fuse? Or should a pattress box be used, I don't want to have to wire a spur.

I am installing a Honeywell ADE Optima Compact Panel,
with 4 PIRs,
2 Magnetic Door Contacts
and a Texecom X1 (X-BE) External Siren.

Thanks very much,
Matt!
The 6 wire to the bell box will be fine if it's "alongside" the electrical cable - but not in the same trunking, and not running parallel for a long distance. The 6 wire does not have a waterproof sheath so should not be exposed outside. If you drill a hole straight through your cavity wall from the inside and fit the external sounder over it that will be fine.

There is no problem powering the panel from a 13A socket on a plug with a 3A fuse, except that someone might unplug it to do the hoovering an forget to plug it back in. Better to install an unswitched fused spur beside the 13A socket - that way it can't be accidentally unplugged.

I have installed Texecom alarms complete with panels and Odyssey sounders but check with your supplier that the sounder are compatible with the system you are proposing.

Good luck with the installation

Sent from my SM-T815 using Tapatalk



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 10:22 pm 
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Thanks for your valuable advice @Rexthewolf !!
Will be installing the FCU in a utility cupboard near the alarm and using trunking to hide the power cable.
I will make sure the bellbox wires are not near the power cable.

Thanks again!
MattWills12


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