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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 8:49 pm 
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Hi I need to create a masons mitre for my square edged (low radius) worktops. These are the worktops:
http://www.ikea.com/ie/en/products/kitchen-products/worktops-worktops-accessories/s%C3%A4ljan-custom-made-worktop-walnut-effect-laminate-art-50345486/

What size router bit would be best to use please? Is it 1/2 or 1/4 inch?
Also I take it the jigs can be either take 1/2 or 1/4 inch bits. I have this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Jigs/Silverline-633488-Worktop-Jig-900-mm/B000ND6UT4
I take it this jig takes 1/2 inch bits.so if I need a 1/4 inch bit then itll be too big?

Are the low radius worktops any easier to cut than the classic radius worktops? I have my old classic worktop to practice on, to get used to the router.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 10:47 pm 
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You need a 1/2" shank bit - a 1/4" router is underpowered for cutting worktops.

The sharp end needs to be 12.7mm and you'll need a 30mm guide bush to use with the worktop jig.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 6:58 am 
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No harder to join than the old style. Make sure you're always going against the cutter



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 8:54 am 
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ayjay wrote:
You need a 1/2" shank bit - a 1/4" router is underpowered for cutting worktops.

The sharp end needs to be 12.7mm and you'll need a 30mm guide bush to use with the worktop jig.

Thanks for your response. I've got a router that does both 1/4 and 1/2 inch. Would I still use a 1/2 inch router bit for my worktop.? Only reason I ask is that when looking online at multi jigs I came across this manufacturer recommending for smaller radius worktops to use the 1/4 inch rather than the 1/2 inch.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downloads/702801_manual.pdf on page 1


oz0707 wrote:
Make sure you're always going against the cutter

Can you elaborate on that please?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 9:56 am 
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hyposmurf wrote:
ayjay wrote:
You need a 1/2" shank bit - a 1/4" router is underpowered for cutting worktops.

The sharp end needs to be 12.7mm and you'll need a 30mm guide bush to use with the worktop jig.

Thanks for your response. I've got a router that does both 1/4 and 1/2 inch. Would I still use a 1/2 inch router bit for my worktop.? Only reason I ask is that when looking online at multi jigs I came across this manufacturer recommending for smaller radius worktops to use the 1/4 inch rather than the 1/2 inch.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf on page 1


oz0707 wrote:
Make sure you're always going against the cutter

Can you elaborate on that please?



Page 3 of the pdf file you linked to:-
Quote:
A 30 mm guide bush and a ½” (12.7mm) tungsten tipped cutter are required.
No other combination will work satisfactorily.


.........and if you read on from there, it explains about the direction of the router in relation to the workpiece.

I've not read it thoroughly, but I've seen no recommendation so far for a 1'4" shank bit, and definitely not on page 1.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 11:18 am 
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This jig has been designed to give a 10mm or a 23mm inset when joining worktops. The 10mm inset gives a better finish when using small radius edged worktops (<8mm) in conventional laminate, composite material or solid timber. The 23mm inset is used when joining worktops with a classic postformed edge.

That's from page one. I'm possibly getting confused I assumed the 10mm and 23 mm were also related to the router bit size of 1/4 and 1/2 inch to. So would it be that I need as you suggested :

The sharp end needs to be 12.7mm and you'll need a 30mm guide bush to use with the worktop jig

but for my worktop I'd need to get a jig that has a 10mm offset rather than a 23mm for low radius worktops?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 12:13 pm 
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If you look on pages 4 (bottom) / 5 (top) it shows the jig set up for making 10mm, or 23mm insets.

It's clear enough that the 30mm bush / 12.7mm cutter combo are the only ones that will work.

It looks to me, as if the Silverline jig you have will only do a 23mm inset as it doesn't appear to have the peg holes for the 10mm inset. :dunno:

That's how it looks to me from what is there. You can only go by the instructions for the actual jig you are using.



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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 1:09 pm 
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Dave54 wrote:
If you look on pages 4 (bottom) / 5 (top) it shows the jig set up for making 10mm, or 23mm insets.

It's clear enough that the 30mm bush / 12.7mm cutter combo are the only ones that will work.

It looks to me, as if the Silverline jig you have will only do a 23mm inset as it doesn't appear to have the peg holes for the 10mm inset. :dunno:

That's how it looks to me from what is there. You can only go by the instructions for the actual jig you are using.


So I'd need to get a jig that has a 10mm insert then. Are 10mm inserts usually used for low radius worktops then?Would it be easier and give a better finish with a 10mm insert for a small radius worktop?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 3:06 pm 
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I haven't done a 10mm one. (And it's been a long time since I did one at all)

It looks as if the 10mm one is neater because the curved edge is the only part that actually needs to be mitred. The 23mm inset will just remove more material, so the straight part of the joint will be further back from the top edge of the curve.
(I've just had a look at the Axminster jig you linked to, and it actually says the 10 mm inset joint is neater on low radius tops.)

So if I was doing a low radius top now, then following the instructions I'd use a 10mm inset jig. Can't say much more than that.


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